Lawn Fertilizer

[Crumm]

I think spring had finally sprung here in Alaska. Most of the snow has melted, the trees are turning green and my lawn is thinking about turning green. Who knows anything about lawn fertilizer? I remember last year going in to get some and there was a bunch of different numbers on the bags. Seems like 10-20-10 or 30-20-10 or some sort of number codes. What do all the codes mean and what does a guy need to keep the lawn green?

I am also planting some new grass out back. What numbers does a guy need for a new seeding?

 

[95_stroker]

The hyphenated numbers on the front label of any package of fertilizer stand for the major nutrients plants need – nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The numbers, always given in the same order, represent the percentages each of N, P, and K in the bag (by weight). Other nutrients are often found in fertilizer, but not in as large amounts as N, P, and K. The percentages of other nutrients are listed under the Guaranteed Analysis

Nitrogen (N) is the main nutrient for new, green growth. Plants that are almost all leaf (such as lawn grasses) need plenty of nitrogen, so the first number is especially high in fertilizers for lawns because grass must continously renew itself after mowing. The higher the number, the more nitrogen the fertilizer provides.

Phosphorus (P) promotes root development which helps strengthen plants. It also increases blooms on flowers. Lots of phosphorous is great for bulbs, perennials, and newly planted trees and shrubs. They depend on strong roots, so fertilizers meant for these plants often have high middle numbers.

Potassium (K) improves the overall health of plants. It helps them withstand very hot or cold weather and defend against diseases. Most soils already have some potassium, so the third number in the fertilizer analysis is usually smaller than the other two.


One of the best things you can do if you are unaware of what type of soil you have in your area is to get a test kit and test your soil for nutrients and pH. Doing this will allow you to choose a fertilizer that is best suited for your needs.


You can order test kits online, I just did a quick search for "soil test kits" and found THIS ONE.

 

[BROKER]

95 Stoke,who knew you had such a green thumb !

 

[Crumm]

Thanks. What would you recommend for a general purpose lawn fertilizer? I didn't really want to test the soil and get real technical about it. I know to do it right it takes a little bit more effort but I would rather the grass took care of itself and I went on to other things I am thinking about putting in a little garden but for right now I just need to throw out a little fertilizer on the lawn. Looks like I need lots of Nitrogen and a quite a bit of Potassium for withstanding very cold weather.

 

[Tevi]

I used ammonium nitrate.I get it at a local farm supply store.They provide a tow behind spreader.I can do 5 acres for about $200.It'll turn the grass a deep dark green

 

[erlong]

I've found that Scotts has a nice website that gives you recommendations on which fertilizers (their brand only, of course) to use. You can enter your zip code, grass type, and they will create a lawn maintenance schedule, if you will, for your yard. I received an e-mail from them a couple weeks ago letting me know that now's the time for pre-emergent fertlizer for my yard. Guess what I did this weekend!

I've been pleased with the Scotts brand thus far. I used it all last summer (new home...new lawn) and it kept it green all season. I use a broadcast spreader, too...makes the job that much easier/quicker.

Good luck!

 

[ArlieEdwards]

What has been said about the guaranteed analysis is absolutely correct. However, several points need to be emphasized. If you only apply Ammonium Nitrate, you will only be adding Nitrogen. That only addresses the top growth. The other ingredients are there for a purpose. P and K add nutrients that are needed for root and stem growth and to some extent the sexual cycle.

As long as you apply Nitrogen and water every other day, you will have a great looking lawn. Then when you happen to go to the lake for a week and no one cares for your lawn, you will come back to a wilted brown lawn.

I would suggest that you go to the Scotts site. Determine the ratio for your area and then go to the feed store or Wal-Mart and buy the cheapest fertilizer you can find in the ratios recommended for your area. Why not just buy Scott's?

The answer is that the ratio on a bag of fertilizer is a guarnatee of the amounts of available NPK and all fertilizers with a guaranteed analysis are the same with one exception.

Available Nitrogen is delivered in one of two forms. Water soluble and water insoluble. The difference is found in the rate at which the Nitrogen becomes available after you water. The Water soluble is available nearly instantly and the insoluble is available over a longer period of time. Keep in mind that the available Nitrogen in a 10% Water insoluble fertilizer is guaranteed to be no more than the Nitrogen available in a 10% water soluble fertilizer. The only difference is the insoluble releases Nitrogen over a longer period of time. The caveat is that you will pay a BIG premium for the water insoluble Nitrogen. Scotts uses the water insoluble type of Nitrogen. That is the reason it is so much more expensive than the others. In reality, the insoluble type will only extend the Nitrogen availablity a few days longer than the soluble type. Ergo, find out what ratios are recommended in your area and get the cheapest fertilizer with the recommended analysis and apply it to your lawn.

Regarding preemergent fertilizers: They are nearly all worthless. It might be the time to apply pre emergent weed killers now in Minnesota, but in Texas, you should have had your pre emergent weed killers out by late January or at least February. Applying pre emergent weed killer at this time of year in my area is a waste of time and money. In addition, always, always buy fertilizer WITHOUT any weed killer mixed in. You need to fertilize on a particular schedule and you need to apply pre emergent weed killers...which is normally what is contained in bag fertilizer...at different times. Pre emergent weed killers mean that they must be applied before the plant emerges from the seed. The little plant emerges from the seed long before you ever see the first signs of green in your lawn in the spring. By the time you see green, the time is way past to use pre emergent weed killers. At that time you need to know what type of weed you are trying to kill and what type of grass you want to save. You will have to use some other type of weed killer, pre emergent is worthless once the plant has broken the seed cover.

At the very least, if you only want to fertilize and don't want to test, just buy the cheapest bagged fertilizer with a balanced ratio you can find. 13-13-13 or anything other than ammonium nitrate. I tried to buy bagged ammonium nitrate last year. It seems that after the Oklahoma City bombings, it is illegal to buy Ammonium Nitrate by the bag.

Now....lets talk about water, shade, types of grass, etc??????


Arli

 

[95_stroker]

95 Stoke,who knew you had such a green thumb !

What can I say, I'm a farm boy from way back........

 

[95_stroker]

Thanks. What would you recommend for a general purpose lawn fertilizer? I didn't really want to test the soil and get real technical about it. I know to do it right it takes a little bit more effort but I would rather the grass took care of itself and I went on to other things I am thinking about putting in a little garden but for right now I just need to throw out a little fertilizer on the lawn. Looks like I need lots of Nitrogen and a quite a bit of Potassium for withstanding very cold weather.

If you dont want to go the soil test kit route then I would recommend just about any off the shelf fertilizer that you can get at your local home/hardware store. It will be something in the neighborhood of a 25-5-5 or similar. The first number is the one that will give you that deep green lawn in short order, its the other two that contribute to the life and health of the lawn and soil. So, if you want a green lawn, go get some Scotts or Miralce Grow and spread it on and crack open some cold ones and watch it grow. Be sure to follow the mfgs. recommended spread rates or you will kill your lawn. Nitrogen in the correct amounts will make it very green, nitrogen in excessive amounts will flat out burn the lawn and soil and you will not get regrowth for several years or until the N leaches out.

One other thing to consider as well, call your county extension office and just ask what the soil types in your general area usually are and what they recommend for fertilizers. They will be in the phone book under USDA.

 

[Crumm]

I will give the Scott's site a whirl and see what they come up with. When we bought this place there was a few bags of fertilizer in the garage so I used it last year and the lawn stayed nice and green until it turned white in the early fall. Problem is I didn't pay any attention to what it said on the bag. The lawn next to the house is now green but the front yard is still a little brown. I think it has to do with the sunlight as the front yard does not get much but I hope I didn't lay on the fertilizer too thick last year. As far as watering it that happens when it rains although last summer was fairly dry so I did water it a half a dozen times or so. Thanks for the replies, I will see what I can do about getting my thumb a little greener..