Just when I need it most!

[rickh]

Well about a year ago I pulled the fuel canister on the 97 and cleaned it and repaired the fuel heater. Alls been well ever since, until this evening. Went to move the truck and it strated right up as always, and after about 60 seconds of idling, just outright died. Now the temps today were in the 40's and I have been running B100 all spring and summer but yesterday I blended about 20% kero in anticipation of tonights temps into the upper 20's. I could tell from the way it died there was no way it was a fuel issue.
After trying to crank it and noticing no wait to start lamp and no tach movement I unplug the ICP and tried again, nothing.
Have you guessed it yet?
Yep Fuel Heater gave up and blew # 22 maxi fuse. Un plugged heater popped in new fuese and fired right up. Sure need the heater now with that stiff of a Biodiesel blend in it.
Total diagnose time, under 2 minutes, total time till it was fixed, around 5 minutes, had to dig spare 30 amp maxi out of road bag in back of truck.
Man I am glad I have gained the knowledge of these trucks over the years, saved me a lot of headach and expense, although those fues aint cheap!
Well guess I gota a project now as I really need that fuel heater working to help with the higher Biodiesel % throug the winter.
Oh and I guess I will blame the broken heater on the Biodiesel....
Rick H...

 

[Crumm]

I really need that fuel heater working to help with the higher Biodiesel % through the winter...

Go with the newer style

Artical in the WIKI by JOAT.






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[rickh]

I thought about that and as much as I like to do those kind of things, I find my time is not as free as it used to be.
Will a late model entire unit fit on our OBS? It would be better time wise for me just to swap them out.
Rick H....

 

[JOAT]

I thought about that and as much as I like to do those kind of things, I find my time is not as free as it used to be.
Will a late model entire unit fit on our OBS? It would be better time wise for me just to swap them out.
Rick H....

It's a really quick project. Especially if you notch the rib with a dremel disk and knock the pieces off with a chisel. If you clean it good first you can get all the particles out with a shop vac, and not have to remove the canister. 1/2 hour job easy if you remember the standpipe is reverse threaded

The late model canister is made to work with an electric pump. Not sure how you'd use it with a lift/piston combo pump.

BTW the bowl connector is also thermostat set to around 30 degrees. Yours could have been broke all summer but didn't short till it was cold enough to close the thermostat.

 

[hheynow]

Well for me it goes like this. Driving on 101 last night and my dash FUEL FILTER light comes on while running WVO. I switch to the rear tank and FUEL FILTER light goes out. Common sence tells me it's the WVO filter so I pull off the freeway and of course I have an extra in the tool box so I was on the road in 7 minutes. There is a restriction/vacuum gauge on my system...but it's under the truck.

 

[JOAT]

Hey Richard. I have the vacuum gauge on a tube running to the cab. Only problem is in the cold it fills with stiff vegoil.

Cyberdyne makes a digital vac gauge with an electric sending unit.
I think Summit racing has them in stock
Example on Ebay

 

[hheynow]

What really confuses me is that my first WVO filter lasted for 7,500 miles and this one went bad in 3,500 and I'm filtering down to 1 micron with running WVO temps of between 160-170*F.

 

[rickh]

It's a really quick project. Especially if you notch the rib with a dremel disk and knock the pieces off with a chisel. If you clean it good first you can get all the particles out with a shop vac, and not have to remove the canister. 1/2 hour job easy if you remember the standpipe is reverse threaded

The late model canister is made to work with an electric pump. Not sure how you'd use it with a lift/piston combo pump.

BTW the bowl connector is also thermostat set to around 30 degrees. Yours could have been broke all summer but didn't short till it was cold enough to close the thermostat.

Don, Where do I send a 94-97 fitler housing to for you to do for me?
Pulling the canister is pretty easy, I just need the time (and two hands). Tough guy me cut my r. thump knukle about a month ago and did not have it stiched up, well needless to say, I just had surgery on that thumb last Monday, "pay me now or pay me later said the doctor".
As soon as I get the otrher hand back I guess I will tear into it. Picked a up new fuel pump today so that I would do it all at once. I hear of so many after market replacement pumps going out in short order. The one thats on there is two years old and I THINK it is leaking so want to be ready.
Rick H...

 

[JOAT]

I actually wouldn't mind if you really wanted to send the housing out, but it would be a waste of time and shipping expense. It really is easy to drill or grind that rib away.

If you have a definite fuel leak it's worth pulling the housing anyway. Sometimes they rot through and drip.

I still have the same fuel pump that was in the truck 120k ago when I bought it. I know some only get 10-20k when they replace the pump, so I wouldn't change it unless you know it's leaking. Hard to say if you'd be putting a better one in or not.