clintusaf
Clint
Thanks for the heads up man. i'll get me some of that lube. my u-joints were recently replaced so i hope it comes free fairly easy.
is this bad?
- Thread starter clintusaf
- Start date
Thanks for the heads up man. i'll get me some of that lube. my u-joints were recently replaced so i hope it comes free fairly easy.
clintusaf
Clint
Which lube should i get?
Lubriplate Online Store - Detail
or this one?
Lubriplate Online Store - Detail
Lubriplate Online Store - Detail
or this one?
Lubriplate Online Store - Detail
Time for a DUH! or DOH! comment.
Make sure you mark the shaft position for re installation. I also read somewhere those boots only go on one certain way.
No bashing me...........just trying to help.
VERY good point.
Red Monkey
Full Access Member
My factory Ford u-joints don't have greese fittings. The only grease fittings on my truck are on the ball joints and tie rod ends. I guess that's Fords 'better idea'. My off road/rock crawling Toyota 4Runner has fittings on every u-joint and I keep'em WELL greased. She has over 234,000 miles and NEVER a failed u-joint!! Broken axles yes, broken Birfields YES, broken ring and pinion yes but the factory u-joints are "almost" bullet proof, at least so far...
clintusaf
Clint
well,
got the parts picked up yesterday from the dealership. I guess i will find out if i have a zerk when I replace the boot. I also plan on regreasing the splines. I remember seeing a walkthrough on it, but cant seem to find it. Just want to make sure i do it right.
And as far as the grease goes, what are the alternatives? i have not ordered the lubriplate yet and i want to go ahead and get it fixed ASAP. Thanks for all the help guys.
got the parts picked up yesterday from the dealership. I guess i will find out if i have a zerk when I replace the boot. I also plan on regreasing the splines. I remember seeing a walkthrough on it, but cant seem to find it. Just want to make sure i do it right.
And as far as the grease goes, what are the alternatives? i have not ordered the lubriplate yet and i want to go ahead and get it fixed ASAP. Thanks for all the help guys.
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
Mark the driveshaft so you don't put it together wrong. I think you can't, but just to make sure draw a line to keep it the same orientation, or you will get vibrations. Been there done that. You don't have a zerk fitting on the splines. Just goop it up real good and assemble it.
Dave
Dave
clintusaf
Clint
Well,
I finally got around to fixing this today. I also regreased my slip joint as well. I had a few hiccups and thought i would explain.
I used this Slip joint regreasing as a reference.
My first problem was removing the 4 drive shaft bolts at the rearend. They were very tight. I should have sprayed them with penetraing lube, but thought they may be somewhat loose since my ujoints were just replaced 6 months ago. Wrong! Also, the bolts are 12mm. The writeup has them a 8mm. I soon realized i did not have a 12mm 12 point socket. I am still building my tool collection, so off to lowes i went. I had sprayed the bolts before i left. I would also recommend using a pivot head breaker bar. A 1/2 inch drive head is too large to to work with in this area. They were easy to remove once i had the right tools.
Here is what the splines looked like after wiping them down. I was happy to see they looked alot better than the ones in the tech writeup. Not bad for over 200K.
Here is another. Looks like it could have used some grease.
Then i came to another problem. When i slipped it back on and went to mate it back up to the rearend, i could not get it to match up to the bolt holes. I marked everything like suggested. It took me a few minutes, and the i realized that the bricks i was using for wheel chocks were not pushed up under the front tire like i thought. there was about 2 inches that the truck had rolled, which in turn, turned the rearend piece that the driveshaft was not mating up with. I rocked the truck back a few times, and rechocked it. So, when you chock you vehicle, do it tight for this fix!
Thanks for the help everyone. Another cheap fix and more money in my pocket and not in some mechanics.
I finally got around to fixing this today. I also regreased my slip joint as well. I had a few hiccups and thought i would explain.
I used this Slip joint regreasing as a reference.
My first problem was removing the 4 drive shaft bolts at the rearend. They were very tight. I should have sprayed them with penetraing lube, but thought they may be somewhat loose since my ujoints were just replaced 6 months ago. Wrong! Also, the bolts are 12mm. The writeup has them a 8mm. I soon realized i did not have a 12mm 12 point socket. I am still building my tool collection, so off to lowes i went. I had sprayed the bolts before i left. I would also recommend using a pivot head breaker bar. A 1/2 inch drive head is too large to to work with in this area. They were easy to remove once i had the right tools.
Here is what the splines looked like after wiping them down. I was happy to see they looked alot better than the ones in the tech writeup. Not bad for over 200K.
Here is another. Looks like it could have used some grease.
Then i came to another problem. When i slipped it back on and went to mate it back up to the rearend, i could not get it to match up to the bolt holes. I marked everything like suggested. It took me a few minutes, and the i realized that the bricks i was using for wheel chocks were not pushed up under the front tire like i thought. there was about 2 inches that the truck had rolled, which in turn, turned the rearend piece that the driveshaft was not mating up with. I rocked the truck back a few times, and rechocked it. So, when you chock you vehicle, do it tight for this fix!
Thanks for the help everyone. Another cheap fix and more money in my pocket and not in some mechanics.
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
Setting the E brake works well.
Dave
Dave
