Installed V Code & B Code Springs, HOORAY!

[Snowman269]

Here's more Motionman info,

In the back I used a chevy 4" block, I have air bags and they were still within the limit of axle/ frame distance by 1" These don't have the ears on them so the bags were installed better. I didn't add a leaf in the rear. I tried the ford 4" but it is not tappered because they are on the CC long box so they didn't need a tapper. So far 60k and no drive line problems, no premature wear on the U joints. You have to have a tapper though or you will have a horrible vibration. I did it all myself, the front bumper has to be removed and that is the worst part of the job. It took all day. I even used the stock shocks for months.

I invited him over to check out the site. Let's see what develops.

 

[PaulWestSki]

Snowman,

I want to perform this swap on my 2005 Excursion and upgrade to the Bilstein shocks.
Could you provise any more detail on the spring swap...
Which rear blocks F250, F350, Excursion if any did you use?
Were you able to use the stock Excusion U-bolts?

Paul

 

[Snowman269]

Snowman,

I want to perform this swap on my 2005 Excursion and upgrade to the Bilstein shocks.
Could you provise any more detail on the spring swap...
Which rear blocks F250, F350, Excursion if any did you use?
Were you able to use the stock Excusion U-bolts?

Paul

Sure, springs swap straight out. Rear blocks don't need to be exchanged & you should be able to reuse all U Bolts.

U Codes in front & B Codes in rear would be my choice if I did it again. That would be level, ride would be great & it would be the best bang for the buck (least amount of parts bought).

Then you could add air bags if ever you ever needed to. Such as if you towed really heavy or have too much tongue weight or are loaded heavy in the rear of the Excursion.

Now with V's instead of U's I'd look at rear 4" blocks (or Air Bags). I went the air Bag route with stock Excursion blocks and I'm happy with the results, but 4" blocks would have allowed me to run zero lbs in the bags (or no bags) and give the plushest ride in the rear. (bag manufactures recommend a minimum of 5 psi, but I know of many going for years with 0psi) It's really splitting hairs. How much you tow along with how often you tow would sway my decision between 4" blocks and bags.

I looked at the Bilstiens too (they are a quality unit) and went Rancho's (on both of my trucks) due to the Lifetime warranty, adjustability, numerous good reports from happy owners and the biggest one of all "Made in the USA". (Side note, my dad upgraded to the Rancho 9000's on his Chevy Avalanche and it rides like my brother's Cadillac Escalade now).

Let us know which components you go with and how it all turns out. Dennis

 

[Houndog]

Hey Snowman -

After reading your original post about your spring swap a few weeks back, you got me so excited about it that I went out and slapped in V codes in front and Ranchos in all four corners - with alot of good help I might add. I decided to leave the rear springs alone cuz I only tow once in a blue moon and then only a 5 x 8 single axle. Don't even know it's back there.

I'm a little surprised that now you said you'd do the U codes in front. Don't you think that they'll settle in over a few months? With all that work you did, I think that in the end you'll be glad you have the V's.

I know I left the stock springs in the rear, but I just measured from the top of my tire to the bottom of the wheel well - front is 8 1/2" ... rear is 9". I can only imagine that the B's in the rear would have brought the tail end up more and your truck couldn't possibly look like it was higher in front. Am I off base here?

Houndog

 

[Snowman269]

Houndog, True the springs may sag, but I just have come to the conclusion that U Codes would be closer to what I was looking for (slight rake to the front). I believe I said "perfect" in a previous post. Ford should build them with U's and B's.

I went to B's for improved ride in the back seats, the better towing/handling was a bonus. I won't be changing to U's, I may go to 4" blocks for the heck of it and see where it sits then.

When following the Excursion as it turns a corner it looks to be squatting in the rear slightly. I just haven't aired the rear bags up to 10 psi to see if it's the right height/rake.

No you are not off base, I'm just sharing my experience and thoughts so others can buy the right combination of parts and get exactly what they shooting for. (If the V's sag to the same height the V's did on my 2001 F250 4X4, it will be perfect. That's just a few years away I think though).

I was shooting for the best ride and handling a PSD 4X4 Excursion could give with the lowest overall height.

No one did the B's and shared the specs. I wasn't 100% sure it would come out ok in the areas of ride / handling / towing / ride height / etc. The B's did not add much lift for me, but they had a far greater arch next to the stock ones while laying on the floor. The weight of the X is like having 1,500-1,800 lbs in the bed of my F250. Heck, they may sag to the same height as the stockers or lower after a few years. I will know in a few years... For now, I'm splitting hairs.

Everyone is in agreement on the V Codes as far as ride improvement. I'm glad you got excited and dove in, that's just cool!

 

[HCAbowman]

I will be doing the V-codes in the front...might just do an add a leaf in the back, I will only be towing once in a while PWC for a few months then a boat...soo we will see, but I am very excited about swapping the springs over the the V-codes...unless I can find some V take offs somewhere for a decent price!! Congrats on the success Sno!!

 

[tfalk]

Snowman, I'm curious why you would recommend using 4" blocks with the V springs or I must be missing something. I'm ordering V's and B's tomorrow, but I'm also planning on putting a plow on the front. From the charts I found on Dieselstop, it looks like the U's raise the front 1.6" and the V's 1.7 with the V-10, so I'm missing the connection where the additional .1 inch in the front translates to a a 4" spacer in the rear?

 

[drchris1024]

Snowman, I'm curious why you would recommend using 4" blocks with the V springs or I must be missing something. I'm ordering V's and B's tomorrow, but I'm also planning on putting a plow on the front. From the charts I found on Dieselstop, it looks like the U's raise the front 1.6" and the V's 1.7 with the V-10, so I'm missing the connection where the additional .1 inch in the front translates to a a 4" spacer in the rear?

FWIK..
U codes will raise a PSD 1/2'" and V codes 1 1/2". Most PSD's that add a snow plow use X codes.

 

[Snowman269]

FWIK..
U codes will raise a PSD 1/2'" and V codes 1 1/2". Most PSD's that add a snow plow use X codes.

Yep Chris & tfalk, 1 1/2 inches in front with V's & by adding a 4 inch block in the rear, you remove the stock 2 inch block. This will effectively raise the rear 2 inches. Fully unloaded the X would sit with an additional 1/2 of rake to the front with stock springs.

The B Codes raise the rear 1/2 inch over stock, but you lose that 1/2 inch once you start loading people, fuel & gear on a trip. The B's have a lower spring rate than the stock springs. Fully unloaded you would add another 1/2 inch of rake.

Everybody has a different opinion on what looks good and what they like. If you go just V's & B's, you may be happy with the results. I didn't have anyone to talk to on the rear springs, I just jumped in figuring I'd find the answer sooner or later.

I know someday the airbag system will leak and require some attention. I don't look forward to dealing with that. Springs and blocks are more durable.

Now tfalk said he is adding a plow. My buddy has a BOSS V Plow with V's Codes and needs W or X Code Springs (or an add a leaf) in my opinion. I know the X Codes stiffen the front end when unloaded more than I would like, but that F350 CC really squats in the front when lifting the plow. V's will work for sure & hopefully your plow is lighter. You could always add a leaf in the front for plow duty since you already ordered V Codes and that would probably ride better without raising the front too much while unloaded.

Hope this helps!

 

[tfalk]

Actually, I'm going to order the springs on Friday since my buddy in the parts department is on vacation until then. I was originally going to order the W's but changed to the V's assuming the 1.7" height increase plus the additional 900 pound rating over the C's I currently have should support the plow. Most of the plows I'm looking at are in the 650 pound range. Guess I need to add the 4" blocks to the order as well. I already have a 1 inch rear helper spring waiting to go in, I will probably have to order a spacer for the air springs as well.

Interesting that your friends 350 squats that much. My previous 99 F-250 CC would almost bottom out the nose with an 8' Western plow. I added a leveling kit from Jack-it that was supposed to be a 2.5" that in reality ended up being almost 4.5. After that, it dropped 1/2" when I put the plow on.

Thanks for the info guys!