haulin8or
Full Access Member
Mine is sitting at 15k. I guess I should do it. Is it a tough job? Is there a link that gives tips and suggestions? Would like to read up before I go out and take a diesel bath. 
If you are WAITING to change your FUEL FILTERS...
- Thread starter JIM_C
- Start date
JIM_C
Turbo Lover
I'll give it a shot since it's still fresh in my mind:
1. Assemble needed parts: 24 mm and 36 mm sockets, appropriate drive ratchet, 6mm allen wrench, filters, a few rags, and a means to catch the drained fuel.
2. Park the truck nose down. If the truck is hot, pop the hood and let it cool while you work on the frame-mounted filter. Clear as much dirt as you can from the frame-mounted filter housing.
3. Drain the fuel/water separator into the catch means by removing the plug with the 6mm allen wrench. Put the plug back in.
4. Remove the cover on the frame-mounted housing with the 36 mm socket. You may have to fish it out from behind the fuel lines. Remove the filter, noting how the old one is installed.
5. Replace the o-ring on the cover and the filter; tighten cap.
6. Remove the cover on the engine-mounted filter housing with the 24 mm socket and remove the old filter, noting how it is installed. The fuel may be hot.
7. Replace the o-ring and filter. Make sure the filter is seated properly in the housing. For some reason, this was the hardest part for me.
8. Tighten the cap and you're done. My truck did not sputter, smoke, hesitate, leak, etc. at all upon restart.
I wore gloves, but found them clumsy when trying to put the drain plug back in. So I didn't even try replacing the o-rings with gloves on. You'll get fuel on your hands and at least one forearm - oh well. I've read that you'll get a lot less fuel on you if you drain the fuel/water separator first. ........JIM
1. Assemble needed parts: 24 mm and 36 mm sockets, appropriate drive ratchet, 6mm allen wrench, filters, a few rags, and a means to catch the drained fuel.
2. Park the truck nose down. If the truck is hot, pop the hood and let it cool while you work on the frame-mounted filter. Clear as much dirt as you can from the frame-mounted filter housing.
3. Drain the fuel/water separator into the catch means by removing the plug with the 6mm allen wrench. Put the plug back in.
4. Remove the cover on the frame-mounted housing with the 36 mm socket. You may have to fish it out from behind the fuel lines. Remove the filter, noting how the old one is installed.
5. Replace the o-ring on the cover and the filter; tighten cap.
6. Remove the cover on the engine-mounted filter housing with the 24 mm socket and remove the old filter, noting how it is installed. The fuel may be hot.
7. Replace the o-ring and filter. Make sure the filter is seated properly in the housing. For some reason, this was the hardest part for me.
8. Tighten the cap and you're done. My truck did not sputter, smoke, hesitate, leak, etc. at all upon restart.
I wore gloves, but found them clumsy when trying to put the drain plug back in. So I didn't even try replacing the o-rings with gloves on. You'll get fuel on your hands and at least one forearm - oh well. I've read that you'll get a lot less fuel on you if you drain the fuel/water separator first. ........JIM
Dale_Lakin
Powerstroke Wannabe Owner
You would be AMAZED how many people don't change the rail filter. I have had to explain to several customers what the big element in the kit is for. Had quite a few tell me that there is always an "extra" filter in the box that they throw away
triplethreat
Full Access Member
Dale_Lakin said:You would be AMAZED how many people don't change the rail filter. I have had to explain to several customers what the big element in the kit is for. Had quite a few tell me that there is always an "extra" filter in the box that they throw away
That's happens to me everytime I buy something that i have to put together they either send me too many parts or not enough.
Dan
Crumm said:
What Crumm sez, fer sure. I carry a new spare, use it, buy a new spare. If you happen to Top Off at a station that has just taken a delivery (unknown to you) you can plug a filter real quik cuz all the sediments are (can be) stirred up. And, when yer "on the road" you really don't know what you might be get'n.
They ARE a bit exspencive, but it's as good an insurance, as changeing yer oil & filter regularly.
JOE
I change mine every 3rd oil change (every 12 to 15K), or at the start of any, round trip, of 6K or more.
haulin8or
Full Access Member
Wow! Great info guys! I will be doing this asap. 
THANKS!
THANKS!
95_stroker
Jefe
I'm too embarrassed to even think about telling you guys what my change interval is....(hint, its not as long as my water draining interval but....)
-popcorn
....(hint, its not as long as my water draining interval but....)-popcorn
FamilyRide
SDD Junior Member
- Joined
- May 17, 2005
- Messages
- 8
- Reaction score
- 0
I just changed the fuel filters at about 17k. They "looked" fine. It's also to 2nd time I've drained. First time was at about 12k I think. Almost nothing but diesel came out. This time a lottle more came out but if I combined the water from both times, I'd have a hard time filling a teaspoon. I guess I'm lucky and have access to clean fuel.
I changed my fuel filters last month (at 18K miles), I have just about 20k miles on it now, both were pretty clean (not black) I had drained the water twice in the 18k miles on them. For anyone that hasnt done this yet, after you are done cycle the key several times (turn ignition on but dont start truck) that way the fuel pump will pump fuel back into the filters ect and a less chance of air into the system.
mjstef
Big Sky Country.........
Changed mine today at 62K Looked good and weren't dirty at all. Bitch of a job though. Se my other post.
