HPOP reservoir is cracked

[Tail_Gunner]

I've got some of that aluminum brazing/solering stuff coming.

After watching the demo video on their web site, if it's as good as they claim, it sounds like the permanent repair I'm looking for. I've heard of the stuff before many years ago and heard really good things about it. But over the years I had forgotten all about it until Google refreshed my memory.

I don't know that much about JB Weld, but it sounds to me like a "one size fits all" product. Maybe it's me, but when I hear about things that claim to work in a multitude of applications or metals, I get a bit suspicious. The ATS-2000 product is for non-ferrous metals. They have another product for ferrous metal. To me that's an indication of credibility when a company admits that a particular product of theirs will work only in specific applications. So that's what I'm going to try.

If it works:

If it don't work:

I should know by Wed/Thur.

Between now & then, I'll do the prep work. I'm going cover the oil inlet to the HPOP with some hi-temp metal stove pipe tape, that should keep foreign objects from getting into the HPOP. Being hi-temp stove pipe tape, it should withstand the heat of the torch when I do the brazing/soldering. I'm also going to notch the crack. I've done enough welding to know about why you want to do that. So by the time the brown truck shows up again, I'll have everything done ahead of time.

On Edit: Oh and BTW, I tried the chocolate bar and inner tube thing. All I got was a bigger oil puddle in the driveway, and Mrs TG all pissed off at me because she now has a flat tire on her bike.

 

[DaveBen]

Yea, I have a MIG that I have been dieing to try Aluminum welding on...

Dave

 

[95_stroker]

I don't know that much about JB Weld, but it sounds to me like a "one size fits all" product. Maybe it's me, but when I hear about things that claim to work in a multitude of applications or metals, I get a bit suspicious.

Im not a great big fan of JB Weld either but I ran across a situation today with JB Weld that is worth passing on.

Sort of a long boring story so either get a beer or change the page but here it is;

My oldest son wanted to buy a used street bike since I kicked him off the Sportster, we agreed to start with something smaller and reasonably priced. We end up locating a 1982 Kawasaki KZ650 on craigslist over in South Dakota. We drive up there and look at it, run it around the block once or twice and agreed upon a price of 550.00 so we tossed it in the back of the truck and brought it back to Casper. By the time we got home (4 hrs) we had an oil spot in the bed of the truck about the diameter of a coffee can. Hmmmmm...... great, got us a leaker. Well, we (I) got up under it a few days ago and it looked to me like the leak was coming off the shifter shaft where it penetrated the trans case. So I get on bikebandit.com and find out that there is a push in lip seal that fits in the case around the shaft AND its still available.... GREAT!! I ordered it. Well, its not here yet but the boy had the day off from work today so I thought this would be a good time to at least dig into it and give him the dry run on how to fix it. (go get another beer if you need to ) We pull the shift lever off, pull the outer clutch/chain cover off and get some carb cleaner and blast away some of the grease/oil/dirt/bugs and grime. I can now see that at one point in this bikes 27 year life span that the chain suffered a catastrophic failure and when it let go it took the small cast aluminum chain lip guard and trashed it, well that lip guard was attached to the transmission case cover via 4 small machine screws and when it all let loose it actually knocked a hole in the tranny case that you could stick a thumb through. Well the P.O. must have just took it all apart and pieced the broken lip guard back over the hole and then applied copious amounts of JB on the back side and then along the webbing around the lip guard itself and let it set up and bolted it back together. I dont know if this repair happened 5 years ago,10 years ago or 20 years ago but the lip guard webbing was not doing so well so I rocked it back and forth a few time and it pulled right out however, all the JB gooped on the back side essentially made a new "inner skin" on the case and it is still holding and not leaking. Kinda wished I had taken a picture of it specifically for this conversation concerning your HPOP Kent.

Long story short..... JB does work and the boy and I had a great day of bonding in the garage working on internal combustion go fast stuff today.

 

[jestersv]

I'm thirsty! lol

 

[Tail_Gunner]

....Sort of a long boring story so either get a beer....

Just so happens I had a monster mug of morning ice tea aka caffine. Thanks for the story.

The other concern I had with JB Weld vs the ATS-2000 stuff was structual stability. I don't want the crack pulling apart more when I put it all back together when I have to take the torque wrench to the bolts. If it holds together with the ATS-2000 as good as the demo in the video, I think there will be less concern than with the JB Weld.

 

[95_stroker]

Just so happens I had a monster mug of morning ice tea aka caffine. Thanks for the story.

The other concern I had with JB Weld vs the ATS-2000 stuff was structual stability. I don't want the crack pulling apart more when I put it all back together when I have to take the torque wrench to the bolts.

I think someone (JLD?) already suggested it but drill a small hole at either end of the crack and then fill that hole with your ATS-2000. I bet the crack is just a casting flaw and drilling it will give it an end point.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

I've got the prep work done. I've ground out a notch along the crack. I bought a small pneumatic rotary grinder and a set of tips.

I understand the desire to stop drill the crack. But that is a problem here. Ideally, you'd want to work on the piece on the work bench. To remove it, you have to remove the oil pan, which means you have to pull the engine. Might as well just replace the part at that point.

If you try to do the drilling with everything in place, I don't see how you could get a drill in position to do the job. It's just too congested around there to get the holes drilled.

 

[DaveBen]

Glue it up. What do you have to loose? You will eventually be taking apart anyways. Good Luck TG.

Dave

 

[Tail_Gunner]

Glue it up. What do you have to loose? You will eventually be taking apart anyways. Good Luck TG.

Dave

UPS tracking says my stuff is in Minneapolis with scheduled delivery tomorrow.

 

[Crumm]

I kicked him off the Sportster

Why would you do such a thing?

UPS tracking says my stuff is in Minneapolis with scheduled delivery tomorrow.

Tomorrow is today