House A/C and Heater experts

Tail_Gunner

CRJ & ERJ A&P Mech.
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powerboatr said:
...never thought about milk house heaters will go look at em

I've found that the small square ceramic heaters put out a bunch of heat for their size and can be found for pretty cheap.

I had a milkhouse heater for the garage once, took it back because it made more noise than heat.

I was able to increase the available electrical amperage for my former work trailer by adding a second power cord. On the inside, I installed a dedicated outlet for the second cord only. I would always plug the 2nd cord into a outlet serviced by a separate breaker than what the primary cord was plugged into. It was basically, in concept, just an extension cord with the female end in the form of an outlet mounted inside the trailer. It allowed me to run an extra heater without overloading the trailer's primary electrical system.
 

powerboatr

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ours is so airtight and insulated that we have found that if it stays between 38-45 we can just leave teh fireplace running and it gets hot about 230 am and i get up and shut it off
but if it drops in the low 30 to upper 20s then the roof heat strip will keep us nice and toasty, then i pop the big heater on while i am in the shower, it takes about 5 minutes and we get HOT.
what is weird is we can leave teh dehumid on high at max for tow days moving it around and everything gets bone dry, then all of the sudden it gets a warm fron up in the 60's so everything stays on low and BAM we get tons of wet windows.
they are double insulated with a air space but have metal frames and thats the weak point. metal to metal outside to inside and we get cold metal
 

Hoss 350

My GSP, Dutch
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powerboatr said:
hoss
thanks
yep its a hampton bay holds about 1.5 gallons ina resivior and is set up to hook a hose to drain which would be easy enough.
I have room in my basement to place it and put two vents in.
it sucks through one side and blows warm air out the other and has compressor in side. its like a a/c unit on wheels cept it puts out hot air vice cool

the RV is http://www.forestriverinc.com/nd/fl...cedar&direc=fifthwheels/cedarcreek/floorplans

Hey, big guy, I was not totally clear on my last post, I meant a link to the dehumid unit, not your camper (although that is one heck of a nice rig you've got there, pal. Sure beats the heck out of my '76 11.5' constoga slide-in without hot water, AC, or a bathroom... :eek: )

I'll bet I can find it online somewhere...
 

Hoss 350

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Well, bud, here is what I would do…

Find a spot in the basement where you can make a plenum for your unit. Then, measure the width of the unit, (w) and the height to the unit (h). Now, measure the depth (d).

Decide what you want to use to make the plenum. Plywood is an option, (it is probably what I would use) but for light weight, maybe galvanized sheet metal is the way to go. It does not matter. Make your plenum box 1” wider and ½” taller than the dehu unit (inside dimension). Make it about 4” on each side deeper (so 8” deeper in total). Coming out of the front, get a section of solid 4” dryer duct (galv sheet metal) and install it in the front of the plenum, so it seals around the edges, using a sealant like silicon caulk. Cut a 4” hole in the intake and exhaust plenum sides. Cut about 1” laterally up the duct pipe in 6 places, evenly spaced around the circumference of the duct, so you create tabs. Slide the duct pipe into the plenum holes until the ends of the cuts line up with the inside face of the plenum. Bend the tabs out, and secure in place with sheet metal screws. Now apply the silicon caulk around the outside of the duct to seal the seam.

Do the same thing with the dryer duct on the back (exhaust) side of the plenum. You should have about 4” of dryer duct protruding from the plenum on each side.

Now, screw the bottom and sides of the plenum together, so you have a box with no lid. Put a bead of silicon on the connecting edges to seal the plenum totally. You don’t want it to leak outside air in, or you will have cold air coming from the vent. Set the unit into the box, and check to see how you are going to secure it to the box. My guess is the unit has feet on it of some sort. Hopefully, they screw in. If they do, then drill holes in the bottom of the box where the feet are, and get longer screws to securely screw the unit to the bottom of the box. You should open the drain cock on the unit permanently, then run a clear hose to the edge of the plenum, and install another drain cock on the outside of the plenum, to be able to drain it when it fills up. Make sure any holes are sealed with silicon. Before securing the unit, put two beads of expanding foam sealant across the bottom of the box, to seal the intake from the exhaust side. Once you screw the unit into place, you can run two beads of expanding foam sealant up each side of it, to seal the sides to the box. The foam will expand and fill the area between the unit and the box completely so that you do not have leaks. Now, run a couple beads across the top of the unit, and secure the top (making sure to silicon the edges of it, too) . The unit should now be completely concealed inside the plenum now, which should look like a plywood box only slightly bigger than the dehu unit with 4” dryer ducts going into and out of it.

Test the unit (you remembered to drill a hole for the cord and then seal it up, right? :) Make sure air flows into and out of the plenum freely.

Now, the difficult and scary part. If it were my 5th wheel, the way I would do it is to find two areas in the floor or in a cabinet, over the top of the area I decide to keep the plenum and unit in the basement, where people cannot step. This includes under a table, under a cabinet lip, under a chair, or whatever. The only requirements would be that the air can flow freely around it, and they are far enough apart that the circulation created by them would actually circulate most of the air inside the camper. Then, I would drill 4” holes, and put vent covers (available at your RV store) that match the existing vent covers for my 5th wheel. If you decide to go with in the cabinet, then a hole through the floor and through the cabinet wall will be necessary. Make sure any holes are sealed well once the ducting is routed, to make sure you do not have cold air leaks.

The other option is to find your return air intake, and tie into it with the intake end of your plenum, and then run the exhaust end of your plenum to a heat supply duct. I think you can get solid wye connections for the 4” dryer-duct type ducting used in these campers. Just run your flex duct from the intake plenum to the return air duct, wye into it. Then run your exhaust to a heat supply duct, and wye into it.

Whichever way you go, you will also want to wire up a switch to turn the unit on and off. You can probably find a place to do this inside the camper in a place that is easily accessible.

I know this is a big and complicated set of instructions, but if you go this way, it is the best way (IMHO) to do it and make it a permanent, professional installation, which will use your existing unit, and only cost you $30 to $50 bucks, tops. Once you secure the plenum in the basement, you will never have to think about it again.

The only thing that I did not look into is if the unit needs periodic cleaning. If so, then it may be advisable to use foam rubber seals around the unit, and a hinged top, so it can be removed for cleaning. The foam rubber seals will not seal as well, but they will do the job.

I could not find any info on the supply/return ducts for your camper, but my guess is that with a little searching, you can find out sizes/fitting needed to connect the plenum to the ducts. Also, if your basement is not insulated and heated, then you need to worry about duct insulation, and also insulating the unit, so the water does not freeze inside of it and the clear drain hose.

This is what I would do, but I also have a pension for making things too complicated because my Dad always told me to “do it right or don’t do it at all”.

My way makes it so you don’t have to buy a new dehu unit, and it will only cost $30 to $50 bucks (did I already say that?) Anyway, maybe I am on crack and it isn’t a good way to do it, but it is what I would try…

Good luck
 

BIG JOE

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Tail_Gunner said:
I was able to increase the available electrical amperage for my former work trailer by adding a second power cord. On the inside, I installed a dedicated outlet for the second cord only. I would always plug the 2nd cord into a outlet serviced by a separate breaker than what the primary cord was plugged into. It was basically, in concept, just an extension cord with the female end in the form of an outlet mounted inside the trailer. It allowed me to run an extra heater without overloading the trailer's primary electrical system.

FWIW, I did something similar. I tapped into the back of my converter/service panel, where the 30 amp Main ties in, and with 10 guage wire, ran a service to, and installed a dedicated, commercial grade, GFI, wall plug.... in the liveing-room, just for the electric heater. That way, >that< heater is NOT pulling power, thru the RV wireing.

I've also... made up a 25 foot >8< guage RV cord. Makes a WORLD of diff when running the A/C, Micro, and other stuff at the same time. No flickers, when things cycle on & off. (thats of course, IF, the RV park power is any good... we ALL know 'bout that !)

JOE
 

powerboatr

living well in Texas
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Hoss
at first read i was lost.
but now i see clearly, we make a big metal box to fully enclose the unit. "isolated" then inside fashion air ducts and then plumb them out to a suitable location to ensure good flow through the coach.
all this fabrication i amy get a shorter one and make teh box under my dinette bench, which would give great air flow access.
looks like wifey has a job this weekend whilst i am gone :D
i may use the 3/4 foam board vice metal for ease of construction and sound deadening.
thanks for the insight
oh teh wheels are turning now
:D
i couldn find a link to hampton bay either, iguess home d stopped carying them. but they do have a few new ones that may be small enough

oh thanks for teh comments on the rv. its our home so it had to be wife freindly
 

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