Help Needed HELP! Early 99 7.3 stalled and won't start...

[roozterdvx]

how far should the tach needle move during cranking if the CPS is working?

 

[BIG JOE]

when I get home from work, I'm gonna check all fuses, (under dash and under hood), then pull the valve covers to check the UVCH connections.

I bought a parts store CPS since it was Sat night and no chance to get an OEM

I will charge the batts while working on the other stuff tonight

As far as the fuel, I will have to figure out a way to connect from the frame mounted pump to a can...

I'm hoping a friend of a friend comes thru on the scanner...

right On to all the above.

An OEM CPS might be a good idea, the Grey one.

how far should the tach needle move during cranking if the CPS is working?

Not sure if there's specific RPM it needs to be at while yer cranking.. .. But.. The engine needs to crank over fast enough to build at least 500 psi from the HPOP.. to "pop" the injectors (spraying fuel in to the cylinders). A moving Tach during cranking, is mainly a basic/first indicator that the CPS is not Totally bad. Fuses can come into play here too though.

And, Like Tbar said... These PSD's are [ANAL] about good strong Voltage & Amps.

On a Cold Start.. IF, before or after, the GP's have cycled.. If there's not enough Volts & Amps left.. to satisfy the PCM's needs.. it won't signal the other vital components.. for a Start. And.. It Won't Start. Long cranking times takes a Volt/Amp toll too.

You probaly should Load Test your batterys ?

Joe

 

[roozterdvx]

just got done with the driverside valve cover...

Before I started, I tried crank her up but she was cranking a little slow from messing with it yesterday until dark. I hooked up a battery charger and let it charge while I worked.

I removed everything that was in the way and got the valve cover off.
The UVCH connections "looked" good but I disconnected everything anyway and meticulously reconnected everything.

I finished up the drivers side in the dark with a work light and about 1 million mosquitos keeping me company and I realized that I would not survive the passenger side valve cover tonight.

For the sake of sanity, I cranked her over and she fired up and idled normal.
I moved my wife's car and babied her into the driveway, (finally out of the street...whoohoo).
I let her warm up to normal temp and everything sounds normal. I let her run for a while and then gave her some throttle, 1000rpm, 2000rpm, then 2500rpm. I held each rmp for about 10secs and then eased her back to idle, still sounds normal. I stabbed the throttle quickly a few times and let her return to idle.
Shut her down and restarted again.

So far, so good.

I am still trying to get somebody that can plug into her, scan for codes, (no SES light), and run some tests.

 

[BIG JOE]

Hmmmm, interesting.. UVCH's then ?

Keep us posted ?

Glad you gotr go'n though

Joe

 

[roozterdvx]

I will be picking up a Ford or IH CPS and keeping this 1 as a spare.

After scanning, and any issues it reports...

I will be replacing both batteries, doing the in-tank mods for the pick-up/return lines and vent and looking at shimming the fuel press regulator.

 

[roozterdvx]

Thanx, you guys are a great help.

I will def keep posting on this and will post results after getting her scanned.

 

[Tbar]

Put a voltmeter on one of the batteries while it is running.......

What is your voltage?


Tbar

 

[roozterdvx]

Put a voltmeter on one of the batteries while it is running.......

What is your voltage?


Tbar

did that...

14.2v on each battery and 14.2v at the alternator


BTW,

How do you "load test" the batteries?

 

[iracemine]

sounds like your uvch fell out. did you zip tie them together or buy the little clip when you checked them?

 

[roozterdvx]

sounds like your uvch fell out. did you zip tie them together or buy the little clip when you checked them?

Little clip?
Please explain...

No I did not zip tie them either...