GPR issues

[Vinni]

I have had a CEL (check engine light) on for the past 4 months or so. Had the codes read by a friend of mine with a power programmer. Sayz the GLow Plug Ralay bank is bad (forget the actual code).

I talked with a Ford mechanic the other day at my local dealership here in Del Rio - he claims the PSD has 2 relays for the GPs - Correct???

A while back, i bought a GPR on EbaY and went to switch it out, the mount ears do not match up with the OEM GPR. It has the two small posts and the two large posts; however they are not in the same configuration as the OEM.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=320041668428

What about this one:

http://k-mansparts.com/browse_item_d...Item_ID/317501

Is there a way to ohm out the relays in order to ensure i hook it up properly as apposed to trial and error and possibly frying the relay or some wiring?

Correct me if i am wrong, but the GPR sits on the passenger side of the fuel bowl - in the front position next to the AIH relay???

TIA

 

[95_stroker]

Yes, you are correct on the location of the GPR, front right cylinder bank. Right now neither of your links are working so I couldnt view them.

As far as hooking it up right? You cant go wrong, big wires (from batt to harnesses) go on big terminals and little wires (PCM contol wires) go on little terminals.

Unless something is different on the 99+ SD 7.3, I've only got one GPR.

 

[Scarlet_Nape]

Vinni,

I used these directions from the "dark side" this weekend for my GPR.

How to check Glow Plug System

To check the Glow Plug Relay (GPR)
· Be sure the engine is cold, so that the PCM will tell the GPR to turn on. If the engine is hot, you won’t have as much time to check.
· Locate the GPR – Its behind the fuel filter on top of the engine, a little bit toward the passenger side of the valley. There may be two relays there. If so, the rear one is the GPR. It will have two fairly large wires (yellow and brown) connected to one of the large posts.
· With your multitmeter set to DC volts, and 15 V range (if not autoranging), clip the positive (red) lead to the output terminal (with yellow and brown wires connected), and the negative (black) lead to a good ground point (like the battery ground terminal or someplace metal directly on the engine block.)
· Turn the key to ON (do not start)
· If your GPR is good, it should click, and you’ll see 11 volts or so on your meter, then, depending on temperature, it will click off up to 2 minutes later. You should do this a couple of times to make sure it consistently makes the connection.
· If you don’t get voltage with this test, confirm by retesting as follows.
· Remove the two small wires from the smaller two of the four GPR terminals.
· With jumper wires, apply voltage from the battery across the two small terminals. If your voltmeter now reads voltage on the output terminal, your GPR is OK, and your problem is in the PCM circuit that tells the GPR to activate.

Somewere, I found a picture of the GPR...I'll see if I can find it, again.

 

[95_stroker]

Heres what the GPR looks like.

Heres what a REAL GPR looks like sitting next to a factory GPR.

 

[Scarlet_Nape]

Heres what a REAL GPR looks like sitting next to a factory GPR.

Mike,

Where in the heck did you get that one? I'm thinking I should have upgraded!!!

 

[95_stroker]

Mike,

Where in the heck did you get that one? I'm thinking I should have upgraded!!!

I got mine from an online supply house that was clearing them out a few years ago. Allied Electronics I think was the place. They no longer carry them BUT......... do a web search for Stancor Relay #586-902. Everybody that I know of that went with the Stancor has never had to replace it. The factory one (or its equivalent) is luck to make one season.


on edit: looks like Gopher Electronics is carrying them for about $60.00

 

[Scarlet_Nape]

Damn....should have posted before I bought the OEM for $50. I'll know next time!

 

[Crumm]

The factory one (or its equivalent) is lucky to make one season.

My stock GPR lasted 6 years and the replacement has been in there for 4 years . I have a Stancor on standby for when the current one fails. I do drive less miles a year than most but my truck gets started a minimum of six times a week.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Sayz the GLow Plug Ralay bank is bad (forget the actual code).

Glow plug relay bank ..... could it be a harness under the valve cover?