wow never heard of that...but i do know most of these "centering"
weight methods are not effective at even moderatly "high" speeds.
whats even more concerning to me is having something LOOSE INSIDE the
tire...sand will NO DOUBT wear the inside of the tire (where no wear
was EVER intended) !
moisture will be an issue w/ "conventional" sand (clumping or sticking
together).
what happens when you hit a big bump at speed (the material COULD break
away from its weighted spot & cause, i suspect, some vibration or oscillation)
the other problem is that this balancing is not gonna be effective at
lower speeds either....until you "get going" and the weight destributes itself.
whats worse is how do you know how MUCH "sand" to put into each
tire ?
good god this stuff is
9-15 DOLLARS PER TIRE !?!
or SIX BUCK MORE (on top of the material cost) if your tires are
already mounted...15-21 bucks per tire !
https://www.expeditionexchange.com/equal/
Counteract Balancing Beads
Tire Balancing Products
Sorry, but most of the above is wrong. Here's why:
- "centering" weight methods work and work well, even at low speeds (i.e. above 25 mph. They work even better at higher speeds. I have Centramatics on my PSD and they made a world of difference in how smooth the ride is, even when the tires were fairly new. Go to the Centramatic site for a better explanation of how they work, the concept is pretty much the same for all these methods.
I have antifreeze in my Toy 35x12.50 BFG Mud Terrains, smooth as butter even at 70 directly from a ride with lots of mud hanging off the tire. I haven't had them balanced with wheel weights for over three years. I also put 4 oz of antifreeze in each of trailer tires, but I can't speak to how smooth they run since I've never rode in it while it's moving.
I put 4-6 oz. of BB's in my '98 Dodge Ram because the Eagle Alloy wheels wouldn't hold wheel weights. Solved my once per month trip to the tire store to get my tires rebalanced.
Other things that have been used are golf balls (semi truckers seem to like this one), sand (construction sand, not Equal), ball bearings, Airsoft beads, lead shot (not recommended due to inhalation risks to tire shop workers) and various other items.
- Unless you drive around at 10-15 mph
all the time, there's no way you're going to "wear out" the inside of your tire, certainly not with something as benign as the Equal or antifreeze or airsoft beads. Simply put, the weights pretty much stop moving much past 15 mph due to centrifical force. In my Dodge, you could hear the BB's rolling around until 15 mph, then it just stopped. I still have, and use two of those tires with the BB's still in them. I sold the Dodge in Feb. '06 and put the BB's in around early '05. This isn't an issue.
- Hitting a bump and upsetting the weights inside the tire is an issue and has been documented, mostly on highly modified 4x4 rigs with +38-44" tires with very badly out of balance tires. I know that I sometimes get a vibration for a second or two in my Toy if I hit a bad pothole while driving at speed. It's usually not a problem unless all four tires are hit pretty close together i.e. something crossing the road. It's not an issue in my Ford since March '06 when I put on the Centramatics.
- Equal is susceptible to moisture, this is it's biggest disadvantage other than cost. There's lots of cost-effective alternatives to Equal and I wouldn't use it for this and other reasons.
- How much weight to put into each tire is pretty well documented by the various "centering" vendors. I have a .pdf at home that shows the weights for various size tires; this is what I used for the BB weights in the Dodge and the antifreeze in my Toy. I'll post it Monday when I get to work. ETA: Correction: it's in the Counteract site listed above, click on the "tire size" link above left and you'll see it.
- One thing these "centering" things won't do is correct an out of round tire or wheel. You're on your own there.
Hope this helps.