Goal: Insane dyno number

[Zookie400]

all you need for no smoke is oxygen, lots of it. big turbo(s) to get a lot of air in, and your planned nitrous will help clean up the rest!

have you thought about a CO2 spraybar for the cooler?

i think the rods would be first to go. pistons should be ok if you keep them cool. isnt "double overtime" pulling truck running a stock crank and block at 7000rpms? i think he is.

 

[nc1500]

all you need for no smoke is oxygen, lots of it. big turbo(s) to get a lot of air in, and your planned nitrous will help clean up the rest!

have you thought about a CO2 spraybar for the cooler?

i think the rods would be first to go. pistons should be ok if you keep them cool. isnt "double overtime" pulling truck running a stock crank and block at 7000rpms? i think he is.

Thanks for the inputs. Being a streetable build I don't want to go too big with the turbo; however, with the setup I have in mind I could probably run a monster at the event and put the street unit back on in no time.

My entire bottom end is forged and should hold (if properly tuned). However, if it breaks I'll make it stronger.

Didn't know they made a CO2 sprayer; thought water-meth was the only way to go.

Isn't Double Overtime a puller with a common rail system that cost as much as some new trucks?

 

[Zookie400]

DO is a mechanical pumped engine (not originally) he re-machined the heads for nozzles, and runs a mechanical fuel pump (big one) where our HEUI or HPOP is.

water meth goes into the engine, the CO2 sprays on the outside of the charge air cooler and freezes it so the air flowing through it gets colder than normal. the CO2 is not being run into the intake. basically just blowing off into the atmosphere, after being sprayed onto the cooler.

 

[strokin'_tatsch]

i have been looking strongly into a mechanical injection swap and boyyyy does it cost some money!!!! wipe out enterprises makes adapters for 8.3? cummins injectors, new billet front cover, etc to make it work. just the inj adapters is a couple thousand... haha. but there is another big stroke company making another fuel system swap for these truck at a much nicer price. won't let names loose, but its gonna be NASTYYYY!!!!!!!!!

i am wanting to do a procharger over a sledge hammer when this new fuel system comes around b/c i WILL have one!!!!! haha. eventuallyyy..... i think this set up can make a streetable 800hp with the right pulley on the charger.. don't worry guys, the bottom end will have a full build before i do it complete with mahle pistons, crowers, stage 1 or 2 ported heads, swamps girdle w/ studs, fire rings, etc. gonna cost, but will be WELL worth it to have one of the top 7.3's around that most d-maxes and cummins dare not mess with.. hahahahahahahahahahaha

i'm going to keep up with your build as well. i'm interested to know just how far you can get with 10k.. haha

 

[silverF250]

There are guys with 600 hp and are very reliable and everyday driver available. 600 can be done for under 10K and on a stock short block. If you build a 1000 hp on a 7.3 you'd be in very rare territory.

 

[strokin'_tatsch]

after speaking with some people i have some more info for you. the stock forged rods can handle around 600hp with some really really good tuning. the block can do around 700hp in stock configuration and can go more with a girdle, but for your 1,000hp goal you will need to do crower rods, mahle pistons, and get the block cryogenically frozen to handle the power so you can still run water through it. this is what double overtime has done and runs water through the block. i believe the cam gear also has to be welded on to run this much power b/c the gear is pressed on and will start to come off and grind metal off the front cover around 700hp. that's easy though. get the cam in with the gears lined up on there timing marks and set you a weld on there to keep it from coming off.

So for your bottom end to hold you need rods, pistons, girdle w/ studs, and cryo the block. after that i would say you need a BIG cam with which you would have to have the pistons fly cut to allow the valves to not hit the pistons, then you need ported/polished heads, etc. definitely not doable with only 10k to spend. with my build i'm looking at well over that. probably closer to 20k with my build..

on edit: you also have to do hardened valve seats b/c at this high of hp our heads will crack between the valves. you can also get the heads cryo'd to prevent this happening even with hardened seats.

 

[nc1500]

Thanks, everyone; I especially appreciate the technical details needed to get to that power level.

I'm hearing that the HPOP setup is the biggest hurdle for higher power levels; the rest is machining and upgrading with better parts (fairly standard practice for high HP applicaitons). My goal is to do this with an HPOP type set-up, though no where near factory. The reasons are due to seeing countless streetable Cummins and D-Maxes routinely hitting the 1k mark, using nearly stock engines. I also want to be one of the first to hit the mark without using exotic componenets, such as the common rail systems seen in pullers.

Hey, 1000 hp was nearly unheard of less than 6 years ago, now it's almost laughably easy. The tripple 4's seem to be left in the cold and I want to show what this motor is capable of. After all, it only has to be done once.:

The cryo suggestion is interesting considering I hadn't read about anyone else doing it (at least it's not something often seen). I had wondered when it might come up, and how much it would cost.

Out of curiosity, what's the most RWHP ever produced by a streetable tripple 4 (using the HPOP system)?

 

[iracemine]

Tormoehlen Farm Service - Vallonia, Indiana (IN) | Company Profile

I hope that works. It seems a farm equipment shop makes this guys parts to get his claimed 22-2400hp with three turbos making over 175psi on a 7.3 platform. over 200K into truck. wow dudes wow.

subbin. would like to see what comes of the 10K build!!!

 

[CSIPSD]

LOL... 1000hp on HEUI... Not going to happen. Sorry.

cost wise just to get you to the $800 area... about 20k for the motor.

 

[Blowby]

Basic Items for high HP: I'm sure I left stuff out but that's the package off the top of my head.

Hardened Pushrods - DI
Crower rods - DI
Big DIIC - DI
Header's - DI
Billet Intakes - DI
Up Pipes - HyperMAX
Pistons and bowl work - WOP
Hard Block engine block - WOP
Balanced engine (Complete) - WOP
Heads Fire ringed - WOP
Valve Spring Kit - WOP / HyperMAX
Girdle - WOP
Porting - Ford
Cam - Ford
PowerFool Nitrous - TS / Blowby
Injectors 400/400's - Swamps
IDM - Swamps
Water inj. - Blowby (water only)
Fuel delivery - ITP
Turbo's -WOP / Pius
Intake / Exhaust - WOP / Blowby
Waste gates - WOP / Pius
Trans - BTS
HPOP - BTS (150K miles on pumps)
Drive Line - WOP
Diff / Lockers - WOP
Cage / DL Loops - WOP
Fuel Tank / Batt. relocate - WOP
Corbeau Seats / Install - WOP
5 Point Harness - WOP
Waste gate plumbing / control - Blowby
Tires - Toyo Open Country A/T's
Custom Mods / Fab / Trans R&R - Rockin S Performance
Tuning - Blowby

* Block is not cryo'd but WOP filled it to a point with hard block. WOP didn't have the freezer at that time or I would have for sure.
* Cam is stock. You know the rule of not changing too many things at once. The DI cam will be the cam I will move to when the time comes. It has a proven record.
* Porting again is a change to my setup that I know will gain some mass flow later.
* Bowl work is WOP's info and I don't have permission to divulge the spec's.
* Compression should be about 16.3-16.5 if I recall. (I'm at altitude and this is a daily driver)

I struggled at the time of build and it was real hard to not do these when the engine was apart but I now feel it was the right thing to do. I needed a good base line so I can measure the types of changes.