Question Fuel leaking from bell housing

[DieselDo]

Good evening:

I have a question, that seems to be a common problem on the 7.3. I have a fuel leak dripping from the bottom of the bell housing when the engine is off. When its running no drips. I understand that there are a few common place they like to leak such as the fuel bowl drain, fitting on the RH back of cylinder head, and where it can rub through under a mounting clip. After some under hood investigating I'm stumped. None of the usual culprits are showing up, back of the head is dry, cant hear any hissing noises with engine off. The only signs of a leak are a drip from the bell housing and some fule laying in the valley.

Being a new member, I hope I'm not asking a question that has all ready been solved but leaking fuel has me concerned. Not to mention at $4 a gallon its getting expensive. Any idea of something I might have missed?

Thanks.

 

[powerboatr]

driver side fuel plug at the end of the head.

and double check the crap out of the fuel filter bowl, its almost always the culprit. plus the inlet line rubber grommet isnt the best at any rate
clean the crap out of it, dry it real good and then go for a good hard run and then check it out
may even lay a white cloth under the bowl area to help diagnose

good luck

 

[A/Ox4]

You've looked at all the trouble places. I would bet is one of those. Clean out the valley really well, they put some paper towels down there. Turn on the truck (first without starting it) and check for leaks. You should be able to see where the leak is on the paper towel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aJ2dFPULtY

 

[DieselDo]

Thanks for the input. I will try those ideas out and report back.

 

[RSG]

Assuming your truck is 8 or 12 years old...the fuel bowl probably needs a rebuild. I was surprised how bad some of the o-rings were when I did mine at about the 10yr mark. I used a kit from DIesel O-rings that was full of simple to follow instructions. There's plenty of points to leak just from that, along with the other spots mentioned.

 

[DieselDo]

I think a bowl rebuild is probably how I'll end up going. Already did the drain valve a few years ago. I guess it cant be much harder. Are there any precautions I should know about before attempting this? Also, is this something that can be done in an afternoon? I cant afford to have it off the road for a long time.

Thanks

 

[RSG]

I think a bowl rebuild is probably how I'll end up going. Already did the drain valve a few years ago. I guess it cant be much harder. Are there any precautions I should know about before attempting this? Also, is this something that can be done in an afternoon? I cant afford to have it off the road for a long time.

Thanks

If you get all the parts -- yes.
BUT you need to get rubber grommets to go onto the ends of all the fuel lines. I believe there are 4 and of 3 different diameters, like 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 iirc. I cannot remember for sure the sizes -- and they're a bit tough to get. The IH versions are a very tight fit; the Ford versions are really pricey to my mind. Don't recall if the rebuild kit has an option to buy them?

 

[A/Ox4]

You can buy the sleeves from dieselorings.com with the rebuild kit. Link in the description of my video.

 

[DieselDo]

Sorry for taking a long time to reply, life has been hectic and dealing with another truck issue, that I think is now solved. I think I found the leaking culprit, by accident. While trying to figure out what was going on with the other problem (EBPV system) I notice the top of the fuel bowl was exceptionally wet. then I remembered seeing a big spot on the ground where I park at work. Strange thing is I didnt see it until that real cold snap in early janurary. Before then it was maybe the size of a quarter. Anyway, I wiped the top of the bowl and the filter cap off, pressurized the system, and seen the cap weeping fuel between the cap and bowl. Replaced the filter and gaskets, re wiped everything down and so far so good. also no more smell of raw diesel fuel.

I realise this is probably only a temporary repair and a bowl rebuild will still be needed. A question, since this is the first time I have changed this filter, is it supposed to be tight going in and out, like have to use a fair amount of force to move it?

Thanks.

 

[BIG JOE]

If what you've done fixed, or fixes the leak ? A bowl rebuild isn't needed. IMO

It's HIGHLY recommended to change out a Fuel Filter on these PSD's Religousely.. @ 15,000 miles... or sooner, if needed.

Some filter caps Spin on, some need a little help. As long as you don't need to REEF on it to get it all the way off, or to seat it.. yer Okay. But remember: Tighter Is NOT Better. Seat it.. then a tug.. is all you need. Start it, Check it under pressure.. another slight tug if needed.

Joe