TXCobra
SDD Junior Member
Thanks guys!
Fuel Filter(s)
- Thread starter TXCobra
- Start date
ponyexpress94
Diesel Power Junkie
Here's what I do on my truck.
Since you have to change both filters at the same time start with the engine mounted filter. Using the correct socket, I believe 36mm on the 08's and up, pop the cap loose but leave it resting in the housing. Next crawl under the truck with a catch pan that can hold approximately one gallon of fluid. On the 08's there is a small barbed fitting pointing straight down on the HFCM housing, try to find a piece of automotive tubing that slips on that fitting and is long enough to reach down into your catch can. This simply helps keep you, your truck, and your work area from being soaked in diesel fuel. Once this is ready turn the small plastic lever on the housing and you will begin draining the HFCM. After a minute or two the fuel will stop draining, or slow to a very slow drip. Since you popped the engine filter cap you will drain the fuel leading up to the engine as well, but this prevents it from trying to gush out when you remove the HFCM filter cap. Next, I like to stuff some small rags around the bottom of the HFCM housing to keep as much of the residual fuel off the frame as possible when I open the filter cap. Using a 36mm socket wrech and whatever combination of extensions and swivels necessary, loosen the filter housing cap and remove it. The filter is clipped in so it will come loose with the cap. Wiggle the cap and filter out through the tangle of fuel lines and wiring. Remove the old filter (it takes a good pull) and gasket ( a small pick or mini screwdriver works best) and clean the cap with a rag to check for cracks or any other damage that may cause trouble. Lightly coat the new cap o-ring with some clean engine oil (since you are probably doing fuel filters along with an oil change) and install it on the cap. The new filter pushes in until you hear a click and then you can snake the cap and filter back into the frame rail and to the HFCM housing. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CROSSTHREAD THE FILTER CAP AS YOU REINSTALL IT IN THE HOUSING. You'll notice the filter cap has torque values printed on it and it's not a lot of torque, so you only need to seat it against the shoulder of the filter cap if you can't get a torque wrench in there. Too much torque repeatedly will crack the cap. Once installed, close your drain valve, remove your drain hose and drag your tools out. Next, remove the engine fuel filter and cap, remove the old filter and o-ring, clean and inspect the cap, install the new o-ring lightly oiled and the new filter (this one "clicks" into place as well). Reinstall the filter and cap on the engine filter housing with the same precautions as you did with the HFCM and you are done with the fuel filter service. To check the truck, I cycle the key approximately six times until the fuel pump stops priming the system (you'll hear it stop running) without starting the truck to activate the fuel pump and purge the air out of the lines. If you don't do this, the truck will stall and be hard to start. Once the truck is running, check to make sure you don't have any leaks and you are ready to hit the road. Good luck.
Since you have to change both filters at the same time start with the engine mounted filter. Using the correct socket, I believe 36mm on the 08's and up, pop the cap loose but leave it resting in the housing. Next crawl under the truck with a catch pan that can hold approximately one gallon of fluid. On the 08's there is a small barbed fitting pointing straight down on the HFCM housing, try to find a piece of automotive tubing that slips on that fitting and is long enough to reach down into your catch can. This simply helps keep you, your truck, and your work area from being soaked in diesel fuel. Once this is ready turn the small plastic lever on the housing and you will begin draining the HFCM. After a minute or two the fuel will stop draining, or slow to a very slow drip. Since you popped the engine filter cap you will drain the fuel leading up to the engine as well, but this prevents it from trying to gush out when you remove the HFCM filter cap. Next, I like to stuff some small rags around the bottom of the HFCM housing to keep as much of the residual fuel off the frame as possible when I open the filter cap. Using a 36mm socket wrech and whatever combination of extensions and swivels necessary, loosen the filter housing cap and remove it. The filter is clipped in so it will come loose with the cap. Wiggle the cap and filter out through the tangle of fuel lines and wiring. Remove the old filter (it takes a good pull) and gasket ( a small pick or mini screwdriver works best) and clean the cap with a rag to check for cracks or any other damage that may cause trouble. Lightly coat the new cap o-ring with some clean engine oil (since you are probably doing fuel filters along with an oil change) and install it on the cap. The new filter pushes in until you hear a click and then you can snake the cap and filter back into the frame rail and to the HFCM housing. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CROSSTHREAD THE FILTER CAP AS YOU REINSTALL IT IN THE HOUSING. You'll notice the filter cap has torque values printed on it and it's not a lot of torque, so you only need to seat it against the shoulder of the filter cap if you can't get a torque wrench in there. Too much torque repeatedly will crack the cap. Once installed, close your drain valve, remove your drain hose and drag your tools out. Next, remove the engine fuel filter and cap, remove the old filter and o-ring, clean and inspect the cap, install the new o-ring lightly oiled and the new filter (this one "clicks" into place as well). Reinstall the filter and cap on the engine filter housing with the same precautions as you did with the HFCM and you are done with the fuel filter service. To check the truck, I cycle the key approximately six times until the fuel pump stops priming the system (you'll hear it stop running) without starting the truck to activate the fuel pump and purge the air out of the lines. If you don't do this, the truck will stall and be hard to start. Once the truck is running, check to make sure you don't have any leaks and you are ready to hit the road. Good luck.
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
Good write-up, Patrick.
Dave
Dave
ponyexpress94
Diesel Power Junkie
I guess that's a deal for some but I can buy the filters for $51 with tax at my ford parts counter and do the work for free and it fits my schedule. Save the wheeling and dealing for the big ticket repairs when you really need it.
TXCobra
SDD Junior Member
Patrick, I finally hit 20K miles and got around to doing this and your write up was spot on! It really made it easy. The only thing I would add is that there was a large wire harness right in front of the cap on the frame rail mounted filter. I had to pull the clip out that holds it to the frame to get enough room to get the cap off and filter out. Anyway, thanks for doing this, it was a great help!
ponyexpress94
Diesel Power Junkie
Thanks for the compliment, and glad to hear it was a help for you. 
08SuperDiesel
SDD Junior Member
Good writeup ponyexpress! I have performed this procedure twice now, and the first time I used a big crecent wrench and channel locks to get the frame filter off (needed both due to limitations and got ~ 1/16th of a turn each time). I remember spending about twenty minutes just trying to unscrew the thing using this method. I even had oversized sockets laying around, but that is another huge headache that i gave up on, so I got myself a 1-3/8" gearwrench off of amazon.com (~40 bucks), from what it sounds like it is a different size, but it is close and works just fine. Well I performed my second fuel filter change last night and let me tell you, I had it all figured out, had the hose from the frame drain line, the new wrench, everything. I drained about 1qt out of the fuel line and everything was going good until I pulled the frame filter and about another TWO QUARTS dumped on the garage floor! Holy Crap! Its on the frame, on my clothes, everywhere. The rags that I did put around the filter didn't do crap, they were immediately soaked. I don't remember that much fuel the first time I did this. I think maybe the next time I do this, I am going to let it drain out for about an hour! What a mess.
Long story short: The fourty dollar wrench is worth it in my opinion and be prepared (or patient) when pulling the frame mounted fuel filter.
Long story short: The fourty dollar wrench is worth it in my opinion and be prepared (or patient) when pulling the frame mounted fuel filter.
abitz
SDD Junior Member
fuel filters
Hey guys here is a good website for cheap oem ford parts its called rock auto here is the link $52 bucks for bothoem ford filters : RockAuto Parts Catalog
Hey guys here is a good website for cheap oem ford parts its called rock auto here is the link $52 bucks for bothoem ford filters : RockAuto Parts Catalog
mastercrafttile
SDD Junior Member
I recently changed my fuel filters,First drained the fuel from the water seperator under the truck with a small hose conected to the outlet drain leaving it open during both filter replacements, then under the truck removed the front driveline u-joint and tie wired the driveline out of the way,then un clipped and moved some wiring out of the way of the filter,then moved a plastic hose,then took a large adjustable wrench and removed the filter,replaced the filter,re installed all the above the same as it was,then I changed the filter at the engine which took 2 minutes(easy).Then I fricken started my truck WITHOUT closing the water seperator drain,,,My truck died and I notice my drain bucket under the truck,,,,needless to say,it took 30 minutes to get it running again and a big mess of diesel all over my driveway.My advise CLOSE THE DRAIN BEFORE YOU CRANK IT UP!!! or you will have to bleed the air out of the top filter and fuel goes all over..live and learn..
