Front Auto Lock hubs - OEM

[dzl_x_4x4]

I think you are making this more compicated than it is. The wheel bearings are located in the hub and are non-serviceable. Replace the hub and you you will be good to go. You won't be doing anything inside the diff at all.

IMHO you should stop driving the truck until you get it fixed to prevent further damage.


Tbar

Thats what I do (make it harder than it should be ). OK, what manufacturer/brand of hub do I want to get, I figure if a OEM is $300-$400, I should be able to get a aftermarket brand that may be better for the same price. Any recommendations?

TBar, I am waiting on the WIKI .

Thanks!

Dzl_X_4x4

 

[Ford_Forgotton]

Dynatrac has the best and correct conversion, but its 1500 for just the hubs/bearings. 3000 if you do the crossover steering kit too (only if you have 6" of lift or more).

I froze a wheelbearing last night on the way home from work. Started out as a ticking noise, like a rock in the tire, then turned into a rubbing sound like a dragging brake caliper, then it started to grab the wheel and pull the steering wheel out of my hands. All within about 3 miles of driving. (TRYING to get it home, cause I kinda knew what was happening)

Got it home, and it looks like I can get a FoMoCo hub for 287 from fordparts.com just to get me on the road, but the dynatrac kit is 30 days backordered!!!

 

[Tbar]

I got mine from a dealership. They required my VIN number to assure I got the correct one. Mine has the four wheel ABS so naturally it was more expensive. Several dealships in the area will give you a discount if you drop the NTPSA name.


Tbar

 

[Ford_Forgotton]

F81Z-1104-BH is the one they said fits my truck. 387 bucks when I called them on the phone, but 276 when I checked their webpage (titus will ford in tacoma, aka fordparts.com )

powerstrokeshop.com wants 280.16

I have our company FIN fleet code, so I may try and see if that makes it any cheaper for me.

 

[dzl_x_4x4]

Called 3 dealerships today and gave them my VIN and got 3 separate quotes.
I have a $322.68 quote with discount
and (2) $204.00 quotes with discount.

I am concerned that 2 dealerships are so cheap, but I am going to get the $204.00 and hope it is the correct one. Now, do I replace both or just one. neither tire continues to spin for longer than a few seconds at MOST. I am thinking that maybe both should be replaced?????

Thanks

Dzl_X_4x4

 

[Ford_Forgotton]

well, the tire shouldnt free wheel, if thats what you mean. You have residual valves in your brakes to keep about 2 pounds of pressure on the brake pads. THose are going to cause the tire to stop rotating very quickly.

However, you should not be able to move the tire up and down, or in and out.

I picked up my hub and associated parts today. 320 out the door for everything. New seal, O-ring, studs, nuts and hub.

You will need the new seal and O-ring, you dont specifically need the new studs and bolts, but may as well.

As I was describing the parts to the counter guy he looked right at me and said: You put bigger tires on didnt you?

He says they sell a hub a week to Les Schwab after they put new big tires on a powerstroke. VERY common failure.

 

[bartman]

As I was describing the parts to the counter guy he looked right at me and said: You put bigger tires on didnt you?

He says they sell a hub a week to Les Schwab after they put new big tires on a powerstroke. VERY common failure.

So how can we avoid this?

 

[Ford_Forgotton]

Dynatrac front hub conversion for 1700 dollars, or if you have a 6" lift or more, the complete crossover steering and hub conversion for 3000.

BUT, dynatrac is backordered by at least a month. Thats why I had to buy the ford replacement, so I can have my truck while the conversion is on backorder.

 

[bartman]

Does the Dynatrac do away with ball-joints as well?

 

[Ford_Forgotton]

Not the kit Im getting. However, their complete conversion kit with crossover stearing DOES get rid of the NON greasable ball joints and replaces with greasable.

Powerstrokeshop.com sells a kit that replaces the front hubs and balljoints. I think they are asking 750 for it.

For the record, if you have a wheel bearing fail, it will destroy your brake caliper and rotor if you dont get it fixed ASAP!!!

The rotor is allowed to twist slightly, and that noise you hear isnt the bearing, but the rotor grinding against the brake caliper.

I was lucky and caught mine in time and didnt drive it far before replacement.

Also, It took me about an hour to replace the hub last night. Its actually very easy!! The "remove and replace" concept is not a bad idea, and made life very easy, but the bearing just isnt heavy duty enough and cant handle the side loading a big wheel offset creates.