fpr how to?

[big bear]

And.... When yer done shimming the FPR ? There is another "fer cheap" mod you can do to help eliminate AIR from the fuel system.

Eliminate the QD (Quick Disconnect) type fitting on the inlet (from the tank) end of the Fuel Pump. (under the driver side, on the inside of the frame rail)

The fitting Ford used is more of a >pressure< type fitting. Under >suction<, air can (prolly is) be sucked in at that fitting.

All you need is about 16-18" of diesel friendly fuel hose and 2 band clamps.

Remove & Replace the QD fitting, and it's plastic line, with the fuel hose & 2 band clamps. Purdy self exsplanitory, if you crawl under yer truck'n look things over. If anyone is interested ? I'd be more than glad to exsplaine how I do the Mod.

Joe





If/when you do this Mod ? When you Fire'em up ? Stand back'n listen..yul hear yer 7.3 Cackle quiet down'n a bit, and the idle jiggle... smooooth out some.

thanks joe, thats some good info about the fuel line coming from the pump

 

[DOC-MX]

thanks joe, thats some good info about the fuel line coming from the pump

X2 what he said.

 

[BIG JOE]

thanks joe, thats some good info about the fuel line coming from the pump

X2 what he said.

yer more'n welcome guyz

This kinda stuff is what SDD is All About.

 

[JRJ04]

AFTER you remove the 2 torx screws, the CAP Comes off.. That's pot metal.

The spring is inside the Brass Sleeve that is INSIDE the filter housing. Take it out.

The #4 SS washer's Outside diameter is micro close to the Inside diameter of the brass sleeve. Because you had 63 psi for a base line.. put 2 washers in the sleeve. put the spring back in the sleeve, put the sleeve back in the filter housing, put the cap back on.. and the tighten the screws back down EQUALY... so you don't snap/break the pot metal ears where the screws pass through.

The #4 SS washers you need are available at Radio Shack. In the section that has all the Micro stuff for doing electronic projects. (All them Drawers ?)

ok heres what i see when i remove the 2 torx screws.

there is an o-ring to seal the 2 parts that meet. then sticking out of the fuel filter bowl is what i think is the brass sleeve (its gold and looks like a tiny little cup. the spring fits inside of this. the gold brass sleeve then fits inside of another piece of silver looking material that is ring shaped.

the washers go INSIDE the brass sleeve and not underneath it right? I bought a pack of washers today from radio shack that were 2,4,6,8,10 sized. process of elimination tells me the smallest was 2 and then it goes up from there. is there a chance that mine takes a 2 and not a 4?

 

[BIG JOE]

ok heres what i see when i remove the 2 torx screws.

there is an o-ring to seal the 2 parts that meet. then sticking out of the fuel filter bowl is what i think is the brass sleeve (its gold and looks like a tiny little cup. the spring fits inside of this. the gold brass sleeve then fits inside of another piece of silver looking material that is ring shaped.

right on

the washers go INSIDE the brass sleeve and not underneath it right?

Yes, the washers go IN the bottom of the sleeve, then the spring goes back into the sleeve.

I bought a pack of washers today from radio shack that were 2,4,6,8,10 sized. process of elimination tells me the smallest was 2 and then it goes up from there. /QUOTE]

What ever size washer that will fit in to the sleeve, and provide a GOOD SEAT for the spring to set on.... is what yer looking for

 

[platinum01]

And.... When yer done shimming the FPR ? There is another "fer cheap" mod you can do to help eliminate AIR from the fuel system.

Eliminate the QD (Quick Disconnect) type fitting on the inlet (from the tank) end of the Fuel Pump. (under the driver side, on the inside of the frame rail)

The fitting Ford used is more of a >pressure< type fitting. Under >suction<, air can (prolly is) be sucked in at that fitting.

All you need is about 16-18" of diesel friendly fuel hose and 2 band clamps.

Remove & Replace the QD fitting, and it's plastic line, with the fuel hose & 2 band clamps. Purdy self exsplanitory, if you crawl under yer truck'n look things over. If anyone is interested ? I'd be more than glad to exsplaine how I do the Mod.

Joe




If/when you do this Mod ? When you Fire'em up ? Stand back'n listen..yul hear yer 7.3 Cackle quiet down'n a bit, and the idle jiggle... smooooth out some.

Going to have to try this when I get back home this weekend. Thanks Joe

 

[JRJ04]

ok guys call me crazy, but i opened up the hood the other day to check on the fuel pressure and the gauge was pretty steady at about 67-68 psi. all the air must have not gotten out of the system the other night when i check it. I now have 2 questions:

1. Do I need to remove my chip to get a true baseline reading? I didnt think a chip made a difference in the FP, but worth asking nonetheless.

2. With my pressure being that high, will I even see a gain it i try and shim it? Will 2-3 psi make that much of a difference?

Thanks!

 

[MattM]

My guage reads approximately 78-80 psi. Not sure if this is harmful or helpful?

 

[JRJ04]

My guage reads approximately 78-80 psi. Not sure if this is harmful or helpful?

I believe that 78-80 is a little high and might be too much. Big Joe will have the answer to this though.

On a side note, how hard was it to install the sonnax tricumulator shift kit?

 

[BIG JOE]

I believe that 78-80 is a little high and might be too much.

JMO but anything over say 75 is push'n the envelope.

Unstoppable filter cap O ring leaks... fuel line fitting leaks'n the like. (I've seen 2 filter cases.. split or crack from exsesive Fuel pressures) (80+)

When I first got into this shimming thing, I called around to 5'r 6 IH shops, talked to some Techs, they all said 65/70psi @ idle, 65/68 under load.. is where a 7.3 (444), (like the Power Strokes in the Fords) >should be<.

I go with that. Mine is on the high side of 70 @ idle, 66/69 ish under load.

BUT ? to each his/her own. Yer call.