Engine Parts List

[AK Rover]

I have decided that when the stars, the moon and money all line I am going to buy a used 6.0 to rebuild as a spare. My current engine has about 95000 miles on it and is running strong so I figure it's a good time to get ahead and have get its replacement ready to go for that dreaded day when this engine has had enough. (Hopefully that will be a long time from now, knock on wood.)

I'm trying to piece together a list of parts that people recommend during a rebuild of the 6.0. The biggest thing is going to be completely resealing the engine. An engine that doesn't leak oil is a dream of mine.

Recommended gasket kit? Anything specific I look for in head gaskets since those are a problem area?

Head studs - who makes them? Anything to watch for with head studs?

Turbo - aftermarket turbo that will work well with an otherwise stock engine? Maybe twins? I don't know if it's avoidable but I would like to get away from the variable geometry turbo. IMO, it takes forever to spool up.

EGR Cooler - I know most will say to delete but I want to go with an aftermarket unit to keep the truck legal. Any recommendations? I never know where I will end up moving in the future and I don't want to have to spend a lot of money on top of moving because my truck won't pass emissions testing.

What I'm going for is a drop in engine that will be reliable for years to comes. Most of my driving is done with the truck empty, just commuting to and from work but I do use the truck to tow and haul heavy loads now and then. I want the best possible compromise of everything. It is a daily driver and needs to be able to handle everything I throw at it.

 

[02Oilburner]

You should have ALONG TIME before a engine rebuild. I have 425,000 on my 7.3 and just changed the original injectors out around 10-15k miles ago. You have to remember that you have a diesel and it doesnt need a rebuild after 100k miles. A back up is never a bad idea if you were drag racing, or sled pulling but your daily driver could last forever if maintained correctly!

 

[DaveBen]

ARP makes the Head Studs. Look them up and you will find oout how much $$$ they are. eBay has them in the Auto Parts of ebay Motors.

Dave

 

[Stroked68]

Yea dont think yer motor will go anytime soon as long as you do maintenance on it. Only thing I see that could be a prob is if you do get the new motor all ready to go and its sitting for a long time, yer seals coud get hard or even the o'rings. Just somethin to think about.

 

[RoyBoy]

I have decided that when the stars, the moon and money all line I am going to buy a used 6.0 to rebuild as a spare. My current engine has about 95000 miles on it and is running strong so I figure it's a good time to get ahead and have get its replacement ready to go for that dreaded day when this engine has had enough. (Hopefully that will be a long time from now, knock on wood.)

You are paranoid. Take it from me. Now go out and enjoy your truck.

I'm trying to piece together a list of parts that people recommend during a rebuild of the 6.0. The biggest thing is going to be completely resealing the engine. An engine that doesn't leak oil is a dream of mine.

Keep dreaming. 6.0's like to mark their territory.

Recommended gasket kit? Anything specific I look for in head gaskets since those are a problem area?

Head studs - who makes them? Anything to watch for with head studs?

Turbo - aftermarket turbo that will work well with an otherwise stock engine? Maybe twins? I don't know if it's avoidable but I would like to get away from the variable geometry turbo. IMO, it takes forever to spool up.

Get an SCT with some custom tunes. Also FICM reflash and ECM rollback from PHP. Takes care of the lag. lots cheaper too.

EGR Cooler - I know most will say to delete but I want to go with an aftermarket unit to keep the truck legal. Any recommendations? I never know where I will end up moving in the future and I don't want to have to spend a lot of money on top of moving because my truck won't pass emissions testing.

Can't help you on this, I say delete it.

What I'm going for is a drop in engine that will be reliable for years to comes. Most of my driving is done with the truck empty, just commuting to and from work but I do use the truck to tow and haul heavy loads now and then. I want the best possible compromise of everything. It is a daily driver and needs to be able to handle everything I throw at it.

Keep driving it. Blow out the soot every now and then. Keep up on the maintenance. Check back here in 200k miles

 

[AK Rover]

Funny thing is when I bought this truck it was the one that always got to park in the driveway because it didn't leak oil. At the time I also had a Land Rover Discovery (which is where my screen name comes from) that leaked like crazy. I never had to check the oil, I just looked under the truck. If there was a puddle I was good to go. No puddle meant it was time to add oil. Land Rovers are also notorious for head gasket issues. Little did I know when I bought my Super Duty I was buying another leaky truck that likes to blow head gaskets.

This project is a long time down the road. Just kind of formulating it in my head at this point. I have owned diesels in the past so I know how they are for longevity. I drove a Dodge with the Cummins in it and at 113000 miles it was just getting broken in. I really don't expect to have any engine problems for a long time but it never hurts to be prepared for the unexpected. I'm sure I'm not as picky about maintenance as some are but I don't neglect my truck either. I use Royal Purple oil which gets changed every 15000 miles and my oil filter gets changed every 5000 miles. I know I don't need to change my filter that much but it's a peace of mind thing. Once the weather gets warm and the driveway is ice free I am going to go through and change all the fluids in the truck. The dealer changed them all when they took the truck in on trade but was almost 25000 miles ago and it will be probably another 5000 miles before spring.

I have heard that with the EGR deleted the truck doesn't warm up very well. Is this true? I live in Alaska so anything that is going to reduce the amount of heat I get out of the heater is a bad thing. At -25 it already takes the truck forever to warm up.

 

[RoyBoy]

I have the EGR delete and haven't had trouble with it warming up. Can't think of why that would cause slow heating.

I would not run any type of oil in a 6.0L past 10,000 miles. I have hit that a few times, but I do sample every change and it comes back good, they tell me to keep changing at 10k. I'm planning to try to go with 7500. Go too long and you will kill your injectors. I'm running Schaeffer's 9000 5-40 full synthetic year round. Do you/ have you sampled yours?

If you ever need to do a build, its always better to start with an engine that you know the history of, especially the 6.0L. Read my engine build thread

 

[Zmann ARGH]

Here is where I bought my studs and EGR cooler BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0
I had to retain the cooler because the Dealer was doing the warranty work otherwise I would have bought their EGR delete as it would still pass visual smog check