Electrical problem - radio, gauge, battery light

[Jsheds]

Swapping out the alternator was no problem, once I figured out how to get the belt off. The tensioner couldn't be in a less convenient place, and it's impossible to see the square hole for the breaker bar. Any tricks to this? I'm going to replace the belt while I'm in there, do I just thread it throught the hole in the shroud and around the fan, or is there a better way?
Jim

 

[DaveBen]

Cut the upper portion of the shroud off. You will see a couple of horizontal lines about 1/4 way down from the top. There is a bolt hole on each side for re-assemble. Cut this off and you should see everything much better. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck!

Dave

 

[Jsheds]

Well, here's the rest of the story. I replaced the alternator and had the batteries load tested. The batteries checked out OK, so I just replaced the alternator. Worked great - for about a week - then back to the same problem I started with. So I bought another alternator and two batteries, just to be safe. I installed them today and I'm still getting up to 16 volts at times when the engine is revving high. Is it possible that I've had two bad alternators in addition to the original that failed? I'm stumped. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jim

 

[JLDickmon]

Well, here's the rest of the story. I replaced the alternator and had the batteries load tested. The batteries checked out OK, so I just replaced the alternator. Worked great - for about a week - then back to the same problem I started with. So I bought another alternator and two batteries, just to be safe. I installed them today and I'm still getting up to 16 volts at times when the engine is revving high. Is it possible that I've had two bad alternators in addition to the original that failed? I'm stumped. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jim

16 volts on an OBD-II system is acceptable.
I've seen some vehicles run nearly 18 volts

wait til the 42 volt systems come out