EBPV cleaning?

black_cloud_stroker00

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For the last couple weeks, I have been reading through ALL the old posts and have found some interesting stuff. It also creates A LOT of questions. So, sorry if I reiterate old topics. I looked in my Chilton's and it said nothing about the EBPV, let alone cleaning it. I'm new to Turbo's and Diesel's. The EBPV is on the backside of the compressor housing, correct? If so, sounds like something to be done with the turbo rebuild.
 

CSIPSD

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Its on the exhaust side of the turbo, Looking at the turbo from the front, to the left. You will see the cap on top of the turbo, next to the down pipe.

The best thing you can do to keep it from sticking is to use it, ie turn it into an exhaust brake... Mine gets used 100-150 times a day... never gets stuck.
 

oi8228oi

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The best thing you can do to keep it from sticking is to use it, ie turn it into an exhaust brake..
i blieve a couple companies like BD products make a chip or some sort of computer mod that make it open and close and acts like an extreamely cheap version of a exhaust break... i dont know how well they work thou...
 

CSIPSD

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There are several different ways, there is the cheap mans mod, just cut the wires and add a switch to where you can actuate it yourself. I run a SP Diesel TC control and exhaust brake, its a nice set-up, but kinda expensive.

It works great to slow you down on long grades, I never need the trailer brakes when coasting, unless someone panic brakes...

The SP Diesel kit is all plug and play, no cutting or splicing. It runs off of the cruise buttons on the steering wheel, Hold the off button for 2 seconds and the brake comes on, hit the gas, its off, let off the gas, its back on. Hold the set button down for 2 sec to set the lock up speed of the TC and hold the resume for 2 sec to set the unlock speed...
 

Hoss 350

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oi8228oi said:
do you have a link on how do to the mans mod? pm if ya do thanks....
I can describe it real quick if you'd like...

Two ways to do it. The first is to make the EBPV work NORMALLY under all conditions, until you flip a switch to make it come on for braking. This means the PCM still makes it actuate on cold mornings, like it always does.

The second is to completely disable the EBPV so that it ONLY works when you turn it on manually.

Braking effect is pretty darned good. It will hold a 23,500 pound truck and trailer at 60 coming down a 10% grade in 5th gear (direct).

Okay, here goes:

OPTION 1:

Parts list - Two rectifier diodes (like electrical check valves, get them at Radio Shack for 10 cents a piece) for a 12V 20 amp circuit. Wire, switch.

ACTIONS - Find the wire coming out of the EBPV, at the base of the turbo at the front. This wire comes from the PCM. Cut the power wire (the colored one, can't remember what color. The ground is gray or black) and wire ONE of the Recifier diodes into the circuit so that the current can flow ONLY from the PCM to the EBPV. I'll explain why in a minute. Then, take a piece of your new wire, and wire in a recifier to it, then splice to the same power wire to the EBPV you wired the other diode to. The recifiers keep your switch from getting a hot 12V signal when the PCM activates the EBPV, and the PCM from getting hot 12V when you flip on the switch. Now, run the new wire to the switch, and wire the switch to hot, so that when you flipthe switch, it sends hot 12V to the EBPV. Now, your EBPV will function normally, and will also turn on for braking when you flip the switch.

OPTION 2:

Just cut the power wire to the EBPV and leave it cut off from the PCM. make sure you safe up the wire to the PCM so it does not short. Run a hot switched 12V to the EBPV by splicing to the wire you just cut, and voila, instant exhaust brake...

I used Option 1 on my '95, and it worked great. I decided that I hate my EBPV in my 99, so I used OPTION 2 and made it manual only. This has also worked fine.
 

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