Question Do I need an AIC?

[hheynow]

My issue is that since I upgraded to a 200 amp alternator four years ago the charge needle falls way to the left every time I stop at a red light especially with my headlights and vegoil heaters on. Once I start moving it goes far to the right again. Never had a problem with it but it doesn't seem right. I don't know much about the AIC except that it raises the idle. Don't know if I have to switch it on and off at every red light. The AIC mods that I've read up on use a toggle switch. However, I have a DP Tuner chip with high idle but never drive with it on. I don't want a redundant function with two separate mods (chip & AIC) or do I?

Spoke to a friend who drives a Powerstroke ambulance but it's an '03 and his AIC is automatically on when his top flashers and e-brake are on.

I really don't know for sure that the upgrade alternator had anything to do with the needle. I always thought the problem was due to the different pulley size on the 200 amp.

So do I need an AIC?

 

[JLDickmon]

I'd have to tell you to put a voltmeter in the system with the vegoil heaters on, and start there...

 

[ponyexpress94]

Unfortunately, the AIC will not help your cause due to the fact that the truck must be in neutral with park brake on and no pressure applied to hydraulic brakes pedal (manual trans) or in park or neutral with park brake on and no pressure on hydraulic brakes pedal (automatic tranny). I guess you could shift the transmission and set the brake every time you come to a stop, but that would get old pretty quick I think.

I had a similar alternator discussion with a vendor when upgrading my mustang. If I recall the details correctly, the charging output and where it charges in the engine's range of speed is dependent on the pulley installed on the alternator. In your case I think you will want a smaller pulley to spin your alternator faster at idle. However, if the alternator is under warranty you should consult with the manufacturer about changing pullies because you don't want to install a pulley that will overspeed you alternator and void any warranty you may have.

Hope this helps you out.

 

[BIG JOE]

X2 on what JLD & Patrick sez.. and.. what kinda shape are yer Batts in ? Maybe you need to step-up a Group size to match up with a 200 amp alt ?

Seems to me that with a 200 amp Alt., there ain't no way the needle should drop at idle.. if the batts are up to snuf, and the Alt. is put'n out.

Whats the Amp draw with all yer stuff turned on ??

I'm think'n Batterys.

Joe

 

[hheynow]

I had a similar alternator discussion with a vendor when upgrading my mustang. If I recall the details correctly, the charging output and where it charges in the engine's range of speed is dependent on the pulley installed on the alternator. In your case I think you will want a smaller pulley to spin your alternator faster at idle. However, if the alternator is under warranty you should consult with the manufacturer about changing pullies because you don't want to install a pulley that will overspeed you alternator and void any warranty you may have.

Hope this helps you out.

Sort of. It reminds me of the conversation I had with the company right after installation just after I first noticed it. I bought the correct upgrade alternator for my year truck and they swear that the supplied pulley is the correct size. BTW it's much smaller than the one on the stock alternator.

Joe - Batteries are each 875CC Interstate Megatrons that have been recently load tested. They are both a year old and check out perfectly.

JL - I wish I had a real voltmeter installed. That dummy gauge is vague.

 

[BIG JOE]

I bought a digital volt meter at Auto Zone for about 20 bucks.. plugs into the Cig lighter.. kinda handy cuz you can read voltage from the cab at random RPMs ?

Sompthin aint right.. 2 good batts anda 200 amp Alt.

Maybe the ALT has some issues

 

[hheynow]

I bought a digital volt meter at Auto Zone for about 20 bucks..

That's doable

 

[hheynow]

Well a few weeks have passed since I installed the serp belt tensioner... (remember this thread?). Well the charge needle is now acting normal. The dry bearing in my tensioner pulley must have caused enough drag/friction at idle to show a low voltage. The new one was well worth the wait. Problem solved!

 

[BIG JOE]

Well a few weeks have passed since I installed the serp belt tensioner... (remember this thread?). Well the charge needle is now acting normal. The dry bearing in my tensioner pulley must have caused enough drag/friction at idle to show a low voltage. The new one was well worth the wait. Problem solved!

GREAT

Glad you got it sorted out

 

[Butch Cassidy]

AIC works only in park w/ parking brake engaged. I been using mine for 10 years, works great for running the A/C sytem at idle. This would be a PITA at every stop light / sign- put in park, engage parking brake. Sounds like your veggie oil heater(s) are really sucking up the juice when "on".

As mentioned above, a voltmeter, and checking out the veggie oil heater(s0 is the 1st step in tracking down the electrical loads. Maybe you will find that after a short time you can shut off the heaters, reducing the load on your alternator nad batteries?

Also, have you considered rather than using electrical heat, setup a coolant heated system for the veggie oil? Your charging system would like it a lot batter and would last a lot longer.

I would NOT continue operating the way you are currently running. The alternator, wiring and batteries will have a short life.

Butch Cassidy