Cranking but not firing

Smoky

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My son moved the truck today from out of my garage to wash it so he pulled it into the driveway. It will not run now. It cranks over and sounds like when a gas burner wants to fire but just will not catch and run. Ive plugged it in for the last 4 hours and just tried again. Same thing.

When I first started it after it was washed, it bucked like it was supercold. I have no way of pulling codes out of it right now. I just did alot of work on includings having the FICM repaired with Atlas 40 put on it. I put in a blue spring as well. I put the FICM back in last Tuesday night and installed the blue springs. Charged the batteries all night to insure a good charge as both batteries were taken out and load tested to see if the batteries were good. They were good under an individual load test.

Wednesday morning it cranked over and fired off first thing without being plugged in. I drove it about 150 miles and the only thing that seemed wrong was that when i accelerated hard after about 15 minutes on the road, the tow/haul light started flashing and I had to pull over kill the truck. It started back up fine and drove on another 120 miles that day.


Then today all crank and no run.

Any Ideas??????
 
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KRISTOLSON

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Am i remembering right that it was running rough before all the work? I went back and read your last post and saw that one of the codes was a cam sensor code(p2614). The cam sensor produces FICM like symptoms if intermitently bad. I also saw a injector 2 circuit low(p0264), which I thought was normally a wiring issue. I would look at that cam sensor, but if thats not it you might be chasing a broken wire.
 

Smoky

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If the cam sensor is intermitently bad that could explain the cranks and runs god then cranks and no run. If the cam sensor is bad would that make it run rough?

Where is the sensor located?

BTW i corrected the P0264 code to a P0284 code in my previous post. That would be inject 8.

I have also changed the oil to 5W40 T6 oil to help with initial startup issues for oil.
 

Smoky

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I found the location of the cam position sensor and how to R&R.

Should i see rpms on my tach wwhen cranking the truck? If I don't see rpms register on the tach is that another sign of a bad cam position sensor?
 

KRISTOLSON

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Cam sensor is on the front drivers side behind the power steering pump. Not super familiar with what they act like but reading other forums I have seen lots of engine dieing, then running perfect on restart, then dieing again with a crank/no start. Lots of guys said when they pulled the plug off, oil ran out of the cam sensor. Others said when they took the sensor off the whole part of the sensor that is inside the engine was broken off. Your other codes I think were FICM codes, but they could be wiring as well? I hope you dont have to start the nightmare of troubleshooting a bad wiring harness. YIKES.
 

Smoky

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Of course the truck is in the driveway instead of the shop. I think i might go out as wiggle a few wires to see what may happen. I have just been in the area of the CPS and I had the DS battery and trays out as well as the air box and the CAC tube. Could have been into the CPS and wiring then. It is suppose to be 23 degrees tonight and really hate to be in the dark and cold.
 

JLDickmon

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Of course the truck is in the driveway instead of the shop. I think i might go out as wiggle a few wires to see what may happen. I have just been in the area of the CPS and I had the DS battery and trays out as well as the air box and the CAC tube. Could have been into the CPS and wiring then. It is suppose to be 23 degrees tonight and really hate to be in the dark and cold.
of course!
 

Smoky

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I changed the Camshaft Position Sensor and it still will not start. I unplugged the Injection Pressure Sensor on the PS valve cover and it would not start. I borrowed an actron OBDII scanner and it will not link. I have checked the fuses and found none that were blown. It says there is a 15A fuse on the underhood fuse block that runs the FICM. Where is that fuse located. I found 2 fuse blocks on the DS wheel well and there was not a 15A fuse that I saw.

Now I'm wondering if the load test that was performed on the batteries lied to me and that may be the culprit????????
 

DaveBen

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The engine needs to create 500 pounds of pressure in the HPOP to get the injectors to fire. If your batteries can't crank the engine fast enough, it will not start. Get the batteries load tested individually.

Dave
 

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