Couple questions...

TurboTy

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I was trying to find the website that has the o rings for the crankcase vent on top of the valve cover on the 7.3? I swore I'd seen someone have them before, but cant remember who, i tried my dealer but they keep sending me the wrong friggin ones, lol..and the other question i had was my EBPV finally threw a code and took a crap and is being a pain in the ass at low speed driving, what is th e proper way to disconnect so it'll be totally inoperable? thanks in advance guys!
 

bigrigr

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i had was my EBPV finally threw a code and took a crap and is being a pain in the ass at low speed driving, what is th e proper way to disconnect so it'll be totally inoperable? thanks in advance guys![/QUOTE]


I just unhooked the connector to disable it. The connector is on the front of the pedestal. Two wire connector-one is gray w/red stripe
 

DaveBen

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Just unplug it like you did. It may throw a code, but it will not hurt it or the engine.

Dave
 

JLDickmon

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or pull the clip off the actuator rod.. I'd to that because exhaust flow will keep it open and the ECM will still think it's operating the actuator..
 

bigrigr

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Now I like that idea JL, keeps the codes away. Do you think it would be better to tie it open, or just let the exhaust do all the work?
 

early 99 stroker

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i just unhook the plug like you did. this will give you a soft code stored on the PCM but does no harm....it will default the valve to stay open with the spring and rod..this will keep aolt of the oil going to the bearing in the turbo rather then trying to open something thats not there...if you un hook the rod you will need to tie the valve open or at some point during cool down the butterfly will get stuck closed..you also need to remember when this valve is opened by the PCM it uses oil to push it open..the same oil that goes to the turbo bearing..if the valve is told to be open..when you step on the go peddle the valve is not forcing the rod back in so all the oil will not go to the bearings..it will just simply keep pushing the rod out ..it will shorten the life of the turbo....i have deleted my valve and get the code all the time..i do have a .5 cent resistor that will stop that..just haven't put it in yet...running the 01 PCM i get the AIH code too...nothing i can do about that..the early 99 never had the AIH so the wires are not even in the harness....
 
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early 99 stroker

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man took me some digging but i found the link that backs what im trying to say..

Q. If I disconnect the sensor, some say this will throw a code ,so they remove the turbo, cut the actuator rod off, and tap the hole in the pedestal and put a plug in it with the sensor still plugged. Is this "ok" to do?

A. If you simply plug the hole and leave the sensor plugged in, you may cause yourself the loss of a turbo from lack of oil flow. Let me explain. The same feed port that feeds the turbo bearing is feeding the EBV piston. There is one supply port and one return port in the pedestal. When the EBP sensor sends the signal to the pedestal to shut the valve,which is not there in this case, the oil dumps off to the return port in the pedestal with no resistance. This is the same return port as the one for the turbo. The piston separated the two when it is was properly used from the factory. Basically, while the valve is being actuated or attempted to in your case the turbo gets no oil or very little. The turbo bearing is the highest place in the engine for oil to travel and it will follow the path of least resistance. If you remove this, you MUST not allow computer control of the valve any longer. You must disconnect the sensor from the pedestal. Yes, you will get a code (not a light) telling you the valve is non-operational, but it's the only way to do it.
 
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bigrigr

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Good to know again stroker, I'll be leaving it unhooked then. Unless I decide to use it as a exhaust brake, jury's still out on that one, but i'm leaning that way. Always good to talk to the ones that've done this before, thanks again.
 

early 99 stroker

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i used mine as a brake for a couple years and liked it a lot..its not as good as a real one but very close... when i put in the SS sticks..i had to free up some exhaust to keep the EGT'S down. so i deleted the valve..I got a garrett ball bearing turbo on the way right now with a deleted pedistal....maybe i can do the resistor then ....i have a spare.. if you want it i would be happy to send it to you..other wise its 40 bucks to get a fansy one....
 

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