spindrift
Full Access Member
I'm getting ready to change my coolant over to International's Fleetrite ELC. What's the proper procedure for a thorough coolant flush?
Coolant flush procedure
- Thread starter spindrift
- Start date
you have 100k miles on that coolant already ? are you running a
coolant filter ?
Pulling the lower radiator hose will net you about a 4 gallon loss...
but that wont drain the block (completely) or the heater core.
the only way i know to do it PROPERLY is the back flush the system...
and then i would refill it w/ distilled water and drain it again before
filling it to atleast 70% mixture
coolant filter ?
Pulling the lower radiator hose will net you about a 4 gallon loss...
but that wont drain the block (completely) or the heater core.
the only way i know to do it PROPERLY is the back flush the system...
and then i would refill it w/ distilled water and drain it again before
filling it to atleast 70% mixture
spindrift
Full Access Member
55K on the clock. The Ford coolant is a hybrid and not the best coolant available for a diesel so I want to change it out now. I'll be installing the filter at the same time.
Beachbumcook
Full Access Member
I disagree.. Ford Premium Gold coolant is good stuff and when used at the 50/50% concentration ti provides all the protection your 6.0L needs... especially when changing it out around 55,000 miles (as I do to).
What I do for a 100% flush....
1) Buy 4 gallons of Ford Premium Gold Coolant and 19 gallons of distilled water at grocery store.
2) Undo lower radiator hose and drain.
3) Reconnect and refill with distilled water (to max line on degas bottle).
4) Drive truck for 15 minutes and until the temp guage comes up and thermostat opens.
5) Repeat steps #2 - #4 five times to get yourself a 100% drain & flush of distilled water (that's all that will be in your system now).
6) After 5th time, retighten lower radiator hose and add enough coolant to equal a 50/50 concentration (find total capacity of system in manual and divide by two for coolant needs). Add this amount of straight coolant as the block has only distilled water in it.
7) After adding enough coolant to equal a 50/50 mix... start motor and allow system to work air out of it and add distilled water to degas bottle to bring to MIN level. Close cap and drive for a few minutes to pressurize the system and force air to the top of the degas bottle. Add distilled water to bring level either MIN mark... check each day for 2 days to ensure all is well.
This will give you a perfect 50/50 mix and with distilled water to flush and to refill, you will not worry about mineral deposit build up in your system.
Ever thought of a coolant filter... check out the dieselsite.com website for the great 6.0L coolant filters... I have one and it really works... I have pictures of what it can do and when your flushing your system is a great time to add it. Even after flushing per the procedure above... my coolant filter got out a bunch of sand and sediment that only a filter can get and when the system is pressurized and operating.
What I do for a 100% flush....
1) Buy 4 gallons of Ford Premium Gold Coolant and 19 gallons of distilled water at grocery store.
2) Undo lower radiator hose and drain.
3) Reconnect and refill with distilled water (to max line on degas bottle).
4) Drive truck for 15 minutes and until the temp guage comes up and thermostat opens.
5) Repeat steps #2 - #4 five times to get yourself a 100% drain & flush of distilled water (that's all that will be in your system now).
6) After 5th time, retighten lower radiator hose and add enough coolant to equal a 50/50 concentration (find total capacity of system in manual and divide by two for coolant needs). Add this amount of straight coolant as the block has only distilled water in it.
7) After adding enough coolant to equal a 50/50 mix... start motor and allow system to work air out of it and add distilled water to degas bottle to bring to MIN level. Close cap and drive for a few minutes to pressurize the system and force air to the top of the degas bottle. Add distilled water to bring level either MIN mark... check each day for 2 days to ensure all is well.
This will give you a perfect 50/50 mix and with distilled water to flush and to refill, you will not worry about mineral deposit build up in your system.
Ever thought of a coolant filter... check out the dieselsite.com website for the great 6.0L coolant filters... I have one and it really works... I have pictures of what it can do and when your flushing your system is a great time to add it. Even after flushing per the procedure above... my coolant filter got out a bunch of sand and sediment that only a filter can get and when the system is pressurized and operating.
spindrift
Full Access Member
We'll have to agree to disagree.
i guess id be interested in reading some supporting info that the GOLD
coolant isnt up to snuff.
fwiw the gold coolant can be mixed to a STRONGER freez/coolant concentration
percentage affording you MORE protection.
the maximum level of concentration w/ the gold coolant is 70%...
the 70% mixture will giving you a HIGHER boiling point and protection
from freezing at lower temps.
im happy w/ the GOLD coolant....keep an eye on that lower radiator
hose...feel all around the hose where the steering arm RUBS it...mine
had the "nylon" webbing on the hose from the factory and i STILL had
a pretty good gash/rub in the hose.
fwiw i used the OLD hose as an added layer of protection, wrapping
it around the new hose to prevent any direct wear on the lower
radiator hose itself.
coolant isnt up to snuff.
fwiw the gold coolant can be mixed to a STRONGER freez/coolant concentration
percentage affording you MORE protection.
the maximum level of concentration w/ the gold coolant is 70%...
the 70% mixture will giving you a HIGHER boiling point and protection
from freezing at lower temps.
im happy w/ the GOLD coolant....keep an eye on that lower radiator
hose...feel all around the hose where the steering arm RUBS it...mine
had the "nylon" webbing on the hose from the factory and i STILL had
a pretty good gash/rub in the hose.
fwiw i used the OLD hose as an added layer of protection, wrapping
it around the new hose to prevent any direct wear on the lower
radiator hose itself.
spindrift
Full Access Member
HD extended life coolants are made specifically for diesel engines. They are silicate free and have better heat transfer. They require no maintenance and have an operating life significantly longer than the Gold. The Gold contains silicates which become insoluble abrasives over time. That's why it has a shorter life than the Diesel ELCs. ELCs meet EC-1 and are exactly what International recommends for the VT365.
It's not that I think the Gold isn't a good coolant. I just think the ELC is better.
It's not that I think the Gold isn't a good coolant. I just think the ELC is better.
hey you probably run synth. oil too 
and as you could have guessed i run conventional
oil...changing it EARLIER (just like my coolant) than
the recommend interval.
that evans stuff better last 3.5 times longer...cause its
3.5times more expensive !
and as you could have guessed i run conventional
oil...changing it EARLIER (just like my coolant) than
the recommend interval.
that evans stuff better last 3.5 times longer...cause its
3.5times more expensive !
spindrift
Full Access Member
hey you probably run synth. oil too
and as you could have guessed i run conventional
oil...changing it EARLIER (just like my coolant) than
the recommend interval.
that evans stuff better last 3.5 times longer...cause its
3.5times more expensive !
Ouch...somebody take the knife outta' my back.
I hear that Evans stuff is pricey. I get my ELC from the local International dealer and he only charges me $11.79/gal. That's less than the Ford dealer's Gold. Go figure.
