Converter choices
- Thread starter copracr
- Start date
trackspeeder
Stone Crusher
copracr
Full Access Member
What about a custom tune instead of the tugger kit? I need that anyways.
trackspeeder
Stone Crusher
Tunes will only address the electronic end of the tranny. It's like putting a bandaid on it. By using the Tugger kit, you will attack all the weak points of the tranny that tunes can't fix.
BJS
Full Access Member
there are quite a few factors that come into creating the issues you're referring to with the automatic transmission.
The valve body is made of 2 separate units the accumulator body and the main valve body (actually this is made of 2 pieces that bold vertically also) The accumulator body's primary function relates to shifting. The main valve body's purpose is regulate pressures on the clutch packs in the transmission and direct fluid flow to the proper clutch pack to ensure proper operation.
If the transmission still has factory pieces in it you're not going to be happy with the feel until you rebuild it. the frictions used from the factory with mild tunes are not quite strong enough to hold the torque from the PSD even with a mild chip the additional pressures added with the tugger kit and increased line pressure on your chip help but the problem is still there when used under a load. (second thought make sure your stand alone controller will allow line pressure increases)
Now on to torque converters, you will not get the converter lockup clutch to engage below 35-37 mph these are the speeds that you're going to hate coming from a manual transmission there is tons of mush but it's the nature of the beast. When the converter locks up and has proper oil flow that portion will be exactly like a fully engaged clutch in a manual transmission rig. Though too much power can distort the converter housing enough to impact the alignment of the friction surfaces which is why you go for at lest a billet faced converter. Racer X's X6TC fits the bill nicely for your mods and gives you some room for mild injectors/turbo upgrades in the future without a new converter. The $460 converter is better but roughly comparable to what you'd buy in a parts store that they would label as "heavy duty" as opposed to the standard OE replacement; only minor tweaks but effectively an OE unit which is great for someone leaving the truck stock and willing to accept some converter slip under heavy loads.
If your budget allows now I'd highly recommend rebuilding the transmission yourself before you install it. Based on some of the options that you've considered thus far and this project it is within your mechanical abilities. I truly think that this will be the only way that you're happy with your final product with the auto. doing it yourself will save you roughly 1500-2k or at least it did for me. Call Racer X and tell him you want a quote on all the parts you need & tell him what you want out of the transmission. I can loan you the trans specific tools except the pump puller adapters since I've misplaced mine, you'll need a couple slide hammers and a good selection of bearing drivers.
copracr
Full Access Member
It sounds like getting in touch with Racerx would be a good idea. I think I will try to pick up a used 4r100 and rebuild it slowly. I'm not in any hurry cause right now I have 2 good running trucks. I'll be hitting you guys up for advise I'm sure.
BJS- I might be taking you up on that loan a tool. Thanks
BJS- I might be taking you up on that loan a tool. Thanks
Stroked68
This is FORD Country
Let us know what you do cause I would like to eventually rebuild my tranny myself and want to make it very strong. I want to do it right. Keep us posted.
CHPMustang
Senior Member
I been running with the 13" Precision Industries Stallion Torque Converter in front of a BTS built 4r100 Transmission.
Zero acceleration delay from a full stop, in fact when I stop at traffic signals I will put it into neutral then place into drive when traffic starts moving again, I learned this practice from Brian Thompson himself
In a nutshell the PI Stallion will be the one IMHO for locked up tight and early
1,600 RPM stall (stock TC is 1,800)
Zero acceleration delay from a full stop, in fact when I stop at traffic signals I will put it into neutral then place into drive when traffic starts moving again, I learned this practice from Brian Thompson himself
In a nutshell the PI Stallion will be the one IMHO for locked up tight and early
1,600 RPM stall (stock TC is 1,800)
copracr
Full Access Member
I got a lead on a 4wd 4r100 with up to 150000 on it. The guy says he feels a little slip on the highway when he punches it but that sounds like a converter to me. Either way, I'm tearing it down to little pieces and checking everything out. He also says it has a BTS valve body. It may or may not as far as I know, but would I be able to tell while its apart? And valve bodies dont wear out so if it is a good valve body I can re-use it?
trackspeeder
Stone Crusher
The slip could be the converter, or a slipping clutch pack.
The BTS part would be the accumulator body. Look for a calibration plate above the body.
Actually any part of the tranny can and will wear out. In the accumulator body. Spool valves can get sloppy in the bores. This can cause leakage or hung valves.
Most likely the body is fine, give it a good cleaning then instal it.
