Continental Cargo trailers
- Thread starter 69oiler
- Start date
Scot
;()
I have a CC aluminum skin on steel frame 7*16*7 (7K dual axle). I wish I never bought this thing. Even buying in Michigan, there is nothing done to stop the electrolosis from eating the aluminum skin. Within 1.5 yrs I had a bubbles under the color coat. Pits by 2 years & gaping holes by 2.5 yrs. Over this same period I have had to replace 90% of the decking screws. I'm guessing because there were only 6-8 screws for each 4*7 plywood sheet. Also I have had to replace aprox 50 exterior skin screws because the heads popped off. The original brakes were toast by 20K. If you plan on using it a lot - look for an aluminum frame at the very least. My next trailer I will be going to a custom builder where I can specify "EVERYTHING" I want.
What's the frame on this one made of??
What's the frame on this one made of??
the frame is 6" tall steel here is a link to the most info i could find online about the fiberglass ones. scroll down
Fiberglass Commercial Grade Trailers
do you know if they have Dexter axles?
Fiberglass Commercial Grade Trailers
do you know if they have Dexter axles?
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Scot
;()
When I bought mine they were using some off brand axles & brakes. I can't remember the name but the brakes were inferior. drums warped and started locking up at 10K. The product shown in your link looks much better than what I have. Looking at the construction of the walls / I'm curious how you would attach anything to the inside.
i pondered that myself. i think i'm going to buy free standing shelves and mount them to the floor and ceiling on one side, and frame a 2x2 wall on the other side and the front with horizontal stringers to tie stuff off to. i thought about screwing to the floor and roof members and using construction adhesive on the walls. i dont want to poke holes in the seamless walls.
i want it basically open inside so i can fit my Ferguson TO35 in there or cabinets that i build and need to deliver.
i talked to a guy today and looked at his trailer, he's a floor finisher and he got shelving at home depot that looked like it worked well to hold his tools and chemicals. i need a similar setup for tools but also a large empty space for hauling stuff.
what size if your trailer and what year is it? did you buy it new? what did you pay if you dont mind me asking? i'm looking at $3700 for this trailer (2006, 9800lb gvw)
i want it basically open inside so i can fit my Ferguson TO35 in there or cabinets that i build and need to deliver.
i talked to a guy today and looked at his trailer, he's a floor finisher and he got shelving at home depot that looked like it worked well to hold his tools and chemicals. i need a similar setup for tools but also a large empty space for hauling stuff.
what size if your trailer and what year is it? did you buy it new? what did you pay if you dont mind me asking? i'm looking at $3700 for this trailer (2006, 9800lb gvw)
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Scot
;()
If your buddy is using the commercial looking grey steel (from Depot) tell him to watch where the shelf supports connect to the uprights. About half of mine have broken off in the 3 years I've had them. I spent about $500 on the shelves thinking they were tough & found they are not. They may work fine for stationary use, but they blow for daily use in a moving vehicle. On one side of my trailer I have a materials rack made of screwed & Liquid nailed 2*4's and it has held up better than my $500 metal shelving.
The stuff I used is similar to this but on a smaller scale. The actual is not listed on the HD site.
Mats & Carpets > Global Pallet Rack - GlobalIndustrial.com
The stuff I used is similar to this but on a smaller scale. The actual is not listed on the HD site.
Mats & Carpets > Global Pallet Rack - GlobalIndustrial.com
i ended up framing some racking inside to accept shelves and cabinets, and i'm going to make a fold-down workbench. the trailer walls are 1/2 inch plywwod with fiberglass and gelcoat on both sides. so i took a sander and roughed up the inside walls on my layout and then screwed and glued (PL Premuim polyurethane construction adhesive) some 1" thick rips of 2x to the walls and then screwed 3/4 x 2 1/2 poplar rips across them and 1x10 poplar on the front to allow for banging stuff against the front wall. i can now hook straps to the poplar, and run 110v electric behind it for lighting and outlets. so i will have a small moble shop.
Scot
;()
Nice set-up. I wish I would have thought mine through more before I did it. Too busy now to take a week to rework the trailer. If you bolt any kind of racking to the floor?, Make sure the legs sit on a frame crossmember & if they don't ad steel support underneath the trailer. Also attach them to the walls to avoid the racks breaking free from the floor. Mine have caused the floor to dip between the cross members and have broken loose from the floor on bad roads. Your best off buildign your own racking the same way you lined the trailer, glued & screwed!!!! 
