Concrete questions...

[95_stroker]

I know that there are basically two types of concrete, the kind that has already cracked and the kind that is going to crack.

For the first kind, what can be done about controlling a crack? Just live with it or is there a product to use or ???

I had a patio poured last summer and it has developed a few hairline cracks over the winter. What is out there on the market to stop cracks from becoming canyons? To make this more difficult it is a stamped and colored pad.

 

[BROKER]

Post a picture of the issues and I'll see if I can help . I pour alittle mud for a living.

 

[roosterdiesel]

When I did concrete in CO, we made tooled in cracks to hide the cracks. Theory I was told was to tool them in when you pour where you think it will crack. We also sawcut some in on the bike path since the City of Steamboat Springs thought the tooled cracks were too wide and noisy when the bikes went across them.

As far as your stamped stuff goes I don't know. Are there any tooled cracks in the entire pad?

 

[95_stroker]

Here are a few pics of the slab and the cracks.

 

[rgdillon]

Here are a few pics of the slab and the cracks.

You want the bad news first or the bad news first? As you know - all concrete cracks - just depends on if it cracks where you want it (i.e. control joints) or not. Several reasons - dried to fast, mix to hot, not enough drainage around and/or under it, not enough support under it, etc etc.

Hopefully there is either enough wire and/or rebar in it to keep it together tight. What to do - make sure you have good drainage around the slab - get the water to move away by either channeling, installing drains, etc - make sure your downspouts aim away.
Important thing also to do now is to get it sealed and keep it that way. Some use a caulk. . . I don't like it esp on a stamped/colored pad - looks like s***. Use a liquid sealer every fall on the whole slab and be liberal on the cracks. It's the water/freeze/thaw that's going to do the damage.
Sure the sealers may add a little sheen to it - but normal wear will dull the caps and give some character. Won't be as bad as you think.

Ron

 

[y2kpsd]

You want the bad news first or the bad news first? As you know - all concrete cracks - just depends on if it cracks where you want it (i.e. control joints) or not. Several reasons - dried to fast, mix to hot, not enough drainage around and/or under it, not enough support under it, etc etc.

Mike,
I agree with Ron. Unfortunately, the most important part of pouring concrete is the preparation of the site it's to be poured on. I've always spent extra time on the compacting of the ground and installation of the stone before the concrete was poured. Drainage is very important. If you keep the water away from the area then water will not get under the concrete and freeze during the cold weather and cause the concrete to lift and settle, thus causing cracks.
I know it's a stamped patio but maybe you should consider a couple of sawcut joints to control any further cracking. Just a suggestion.

Gar

 

[95_stroker]

Its already been sawcut and it was sealed before winter as well. I just hope the cracks dont become canyons I guess........

 

[95_stroker]

Alright............ which one of you guys is my contractor? Swear on a stack of good books, this morning my cement guy called and wanted to know how the patio pad survivied the winter.

I said, "I'm so glad you called, theres a couple things I think you should come take a look at."

To make a long story short I think he was looking to pour more mud and we had previously talked about doing a stamped/colored entrance pad to my house. Sooooooooooooooo, I think he's going to come over and fill some cracks and re-seal the pad in the next couple of weeks in hopes of retaining me as a customer next year. He's a good guy and knows his mud. My patio was the second colored/stamped pad (and first in that color/pattern) he did on a large scale ( about 9 yards) and of course it ended up in his picture album to promote business, he's had probably half a dozen to a dozen potential customers come to my house and look at the work. To date he has poured 7 more pads exactly like mine. For some reason it is what folks like and want around here.

 

[ibsmurf]

While we're talking mud, I have a question for y'all. Wifey want me to put in a slab outside the back door (walk out basement) now that the deck has been built and we know what area we have to play with. I'm thinking of going the permanent form route (each section about 4.5' x 6') and making the slab about 3 1/2" thick. Do I need wire mesh in each section, or can I get away without it? Any helpful tips you mind sharing with a poor DIY'er?

 

[rgdillon]

While we're talking mud, I have a question for y'all. Wifey want me to put in a slab outside the back door (walk out basement) now that the deck has been built and we know what area we have to play with. I'm thinking of going the permanent form route (each section about 4.5' x 6') and making the slab about 3 1/2" thick. Do I need wire mesh in each section, or can I get away without it? Any helpful tips you mind sharing with a poor DIY'er?

I don't pour anything without metal in it. Either rebar or mesh. I prefer to use rebar instead of mesh. Concrete has great compression strength - not so on shear which is one of the major reasons for the metal.

Ron