Changing the oil on 6.0

[F350DRW1]

That link isn't bad, but when you click on fuel filter change it defaults back to oil change.

 

[bbdano]

While I was under my truck putting on the block heater cable, I noticed that I had some areas where oil has appeared to have been leaking. Nothing major, yet, but still its leaking. Like down the right side where the starter goes ino the bell housing, and of course, around the drain plug. I hope that is just a matter of a new gasket. But the other, should I have the dealer look at it since the thing is still under warranty? Or just wipe it off and keep an eye on it?
dano

 

[MBRPCrazyford]

Keep an eye on it for now, but if it starts agian, I'd take it back.

 

[keanoknick]

There's a TSB out on the 2005's for a leaking connector on the HPOP, you should have the dealer check it, it might be from the HPOP and then dripping down the back of the block.

 

[W4RLR]

Cost of Motorcraft oil filter and 14 quarts of Shell Rotella = $50
Cost of new 6.0 crate engine without installation = $13,850

Like the mechanic in the Fram commercials says "You can pay me now, or pay me later!" Oil is cheap insurance on a diesel. Changing oil on your 6.0 should be like voting in Chicago, an activity that should be done early and often.

 

[jwplunkett]

Hello all --- figured I would send out a quick e-mail inquiring about the statement made by WD40 --- he states to remove the oil filter cap & filter first then drain pan ---- However Haynes Repair Manual states to do just the reversal ( Drain pan then remove Cap & Filter to prevent a mess on top of Engine ) --- this is an extremely minor issue I know --- The key point is that all oil is drained I let my sit for 10 minutes or so while I go get myself a drink --- I just changed my oil yesterday and followed the Haynes procedure NO mess and I also agree with previous posts very quick & easy to perform ---- I run synthetic Diesel Oil just for the extra protection HOWEVER I also agree with previous posts to NOT go beyond the FACTORY change intervals / Always change FILTER at each factory recommended interval regardless what the marketing types ( Redline, Amsoil etc ) tell a person ---- I look at it as spent a little more on the oil to protect a 45K and up vehicle investment plus do the Oil change yourself this way you know for a fact its been done right ( No Jiffy lube etc ) --- money well spent in my humble viewpoint --- I plan to run this Diesel Vehicle for years to come ---- happy holidays to all in advance --- John from Colfax NC

 

[DaveBen]

Remove the cap first and then the plug in the pan. This allows the oil from the filter to drain into the pan while you are emptying the pan. This si not the first error in the Hayes Manual. If you use a Fumoto Vlave, you should not leave anything on the ground. Here: FumotoValve.com - Engine Oil Drain Valve - the bast way to change oil is the web site.

Dave

 

[bushpilot]

at best the hayes manual is paranoid...call 'em up and ask 'em how oil
flows UP (when the engine is off) !?!

I personally can NEVER remember to pop the filter cap 1st...i start my
drain, and then go up and pop the cap...'long as you give it plenty of
time to drain youll be fine.

and remember REFILL is NOT 15quarts...its 14qts at the most...

 

[jwplunkett]

Bbdano & BushPilot ---- you guys ROCK --- many thanks for sharing our valuable knowledge for benefit of us newbees to the Diesel Vehicle environment ---- I find this forum extremely valuable --- BushPilot you are on the mark ( Haynes states 15 quarts ( With Filter Change ) so I followed same and inserted 15 quarts --- Checked was a bit over full so figured must need to run for a minute or two did same turned off engine and its still overfull ----- QUESTIONS to follow: Will that extra quart of oil do any damage ? --- Should I drain a quart out ? ---- Or just let it be and cross thru Haynes 15 Quart and correct with 14 and insert 14 on the next oil change ---- Thanks as always -- John from Colfax NC

 

[bushpilot]

the extra quart probably wont kill anything...you MAY notice
at steady throttle (cruise set on flat road) some "surging"...
due to the crank dragging thru that extra quart of oil in the pan.

the issue, as a background and understanding, is a QUART of oil
remains in the HPOP reservoir and (unfortunately) never drains
when you change the oil....the good part of this is that the reservoir
provides oil for the HPOP and keeps the crank times SHORT when
starting the truck.

if you didnt have the is quart in the HPOP reservoir youd have to crank
until there was enough oil for the HPOP to build 500psi just to fire
the injectors.