changing glowplugs

Quadzilla

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Hi, Brian!
I may be old, and I may be slow, but I'll eventually catch up with where the action is. :)
 

wanderer

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One thing that hasn't been mentioned, on the passenger side valve cover, remove the silver heat shield, and then on the side of the heater box, there is a rectangular vacuum box held on with two screws. Remove this from the heater box, and the valve cover slips right up and out clearing the injectors.
 

jlayne

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Renegade said:
alot of guys I hear also (but havent tried) recommend Mercury PowerTune outboard engine/carbon cleaner works wonders on getting a carboned up GP out.

i think thats a pretty good idea.. i have never done it either so i don't know what it would do to a diesel but it does a very good job at getting rid of carbon i use johnnyrude tunner (OMC) twice a year in my bass boat and you wouldn't believe the junk it breaks up and shoots out the way you use it on a outboard it wind it up and spray it in the intake... i guess you could do the same on a PSD :confused: as long as it didn't puddle in the IC (keep it wound up) i don't see that it would cause a problem

oh and if its anything like with a boat... it will make a LARGE black gooey stinky mess by the exhaust pipe... so do it outside
 

BJS

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jlayne said:
i think thats a pretty good idea.. i have never done it either so i don't know what it would do to a diesel but it does a very good job at getting rid of carbon i use johnnyrude tunner (OMC) twice a year in my bass boat and you wouldn't believe the junk it breaks up and shoots out the way you use it on a outboard it wind it up and spray it in the intake... i guess you could do the same on a PSD :confused: as long as it didn't puddle in the IC (keep it wound up) i don't see that it would cause a problem

oh and if its anything like with a boat... it will make a LARGE black gooey stinky mess by the exhaust pipe... so do it outside


The suggestion on how I've heard to use it was to simply apply it from the top under the vc if you can get the threads out but not the whole plug then it's great from the top you just need to turn the engine over a couple times before you put the new plug in to make sure you don't hydrolock your motor.
 

jlayne

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BJS said:
The suggestion on how I've heard to use it was to simply apply it from the top under the vc if you can get the threads out but not the whole plug then it's great from the top you just need to turn the engine over a couple times before you put the new plug in to make sure you don't hydrolock your motor.

just from using this stuff if it was possible to run it through the motor it would remove more carbon, after i run this junk through my boat the tops of the pistons and cylinder heads look like brand new, i understand the problem with carbon is that it builds up on the bottom of the glowplug... what is the risk of locking it up, how would the motor react if you ran it up to say 2k rpms and sprayed some type of liquid in the intake (just spray not drowned) i can't see it being too different from water inj. i know my 460 would smile and say thank you may i have another, but these critters are nothing like a gasser :confused: i don't know i'm just thinking out loud i can build a gasser that puts out 500 ponies in my sleep but diesels scare me :eek:

i will say this as far as cleaning junk out of a motor after i run a can or two through my boat it will run down the lake at about 300-500 more rpms
 
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Ford_Forgotten said:
So, I got recruited to help my buddy replace his glow plugs in his 97 PD. Anything I should watch out for? I hear the valve cover is a !@!$@$ to get off on the right side? Special tools? Lots of beer?

Aim not doing this for a few more weeks, but may as well get an idea for it now.

Daryl,

In addition to what Brian (Renegade) mentioned above, if it is an automatic you will find the AFT dipstick tube is a PITA...simply put a 1/2" drive long socket extension in it with the female end in the tube and you will find that you can flex it just enough to remove the valve cover. Doing it this way you DO NOT have to remove the heat shield and vacuum box off the AC unit...saves time and frustration.

Use a 6 pt. 1/4" drive deep 10mm socket to loosen and tighten the glow plugs, use shop air to blow any oil away from the plugs before removing so there is no oil in the cylinders. Start the plugs by hand using a short piece of rubber hose slipped over the end of the glow plug....most important DO NOT use AUTOLITE plugs :eek: :eek: Use only Motorcraft ZD-11 (they will have BERU stamped on them)
 

Ford_Forgotton

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I will ask him what plugs he bought, as he already has them. Said they been siiting on his to-do list for quite some time. I will be back in seattle for the "Mild to Wild" car show because my father is showing his mustang and his harleys in it. I get to drive a 650hp 65 mustang. street legal too :D :D Supercharged AND nitrous in a 347 stroker 302 block. While Im there for the show, Im supposed to help with these glowplugs one evening. April 23rd I think?....Just emailed him, says he bought International glowplugs. I would think that should be fine.
 

Ggg

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I was able to remove my passenger side v/c rather easily by loosening and pivoting the alternator out of the way. That way you roll the v/c up and slide it forward. My dipstick tube was not in my way, but I have heard good results by bending the dipstick tube as mentioned above if that is your issue. Either of these two methods do not require any messing with the heat shield or vacuum box. When inserting the g/p's make darn sure you are going into the correct hole. On the l. rearmost g/p I almost dropped it down along the push rod. I work slow and none of mine were stuck, it took me about 4 hours to do all of them.
This would be a great opportunity to do wiring harness, head studs, aftermarket injectors, & a high rev kit. If you happen to drop something into the engine and you must remove the head to retrieve it, look at this as an opportunity to o-ring the heads as well as the above mentioned mods. LOL
 

Ford_Forgotton

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well, did the swap this weekend. Not TERRIBLE, but not exactly easy either. Good call on using a WOBBLY socket, that REALLY helped!!!!

6 plugs tested bad on my meter, and two test "marginal". And, the best part is, the truck started when we were done. Must have done something right!

I dont know where everyone is seeing "carbon" buildup. the plugs were easy to get out and I dont see what would make it difficult. Only way I could see breaking one is if you wedged the socket in at an angle and snapped the top of the plug off.
 

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