Cab and body mount replacement thoughts?

[johndeerebones]

I've messed with them before and know they can be a PITA, but my cab/bed misalignment has gone long enough. I would prefer rubber for its forgiveness, but poly is cheap in kits and rubber gives out, so I went to summit racing and found an energy suspension kit for 60.39 plus shipping, sounds like a good price to me, gonna call NAPA tommorow, locally owned and they do me good, bet they can beat summit.

Just wanted to see what you guys think about poly body mounts?
I don't do alot of wheelin, just get in some hairy stuff when I'm hunting through winter. We have bumpy roads everywhere you go though, -10 in the winter and 150 in the summer is hard on em.
I just don't want to destroy my body from them being to harsh...Thoughts?

 

[hheynow]

Mine has been retrofitted completely with Energy Suspension polyurethane. The cab and body mounts are harsher than rubber, but I'd never go back. My cab and bed finally lined up and I'll never have to replace them again or any other bushings that I've had replaced. The install was a PITA. Try auto zone for pricing too. They used to have free shipping and some of the sets were cheaper than Summit Racing.

 

[JOAT]

My ride improved dramatically with the energy suspension mounts. Before, my wife hated riding in the truck it was so rough. Now we drive it across country and no complaints at all. I hit speed bumps at high speed, and it sucks them up.

I think the loose bushings allowed enough cab movement that the suspension wasn't doing it's job, and now the cabs weight is effective against the springs instead of just bouncing around separately from the frame.

You will notice alot of rattles with the new bushings. 99% of those will go away if you pull the door panels off and replace the plastic darts.

 

[johndeerebones]

I ordered them a couple days ago, thought they would be here today, but they didn't make it. I'm sure mine are to the point you are talking about Don.
I have the plastic rivets taken care of, replace them every time I'm in there cause I hate the rattles. Gotta use the good Ford ones too, the chinsy cheap plastic ones at the zone break on the way in the first time......

 

[tubzz]

you might want to get new bolts for the front.mine broke when doing mine.on the front 2 after you get them off the nut is part of the washer.just cut the nut off of it so you can reuse the washer.you will know what i'm talking about when you get their.
use a 25/32 drill bit and drill down though the mounts in the cab tell the botton half hits the floor.it will save you a whole bunch of time.

 

[JOAT]

Good point on the front mount. Get some kroil or oil of choice on there a few days ahead of time.

IIRC, the top nut holds the radiator support to the mount. Once it's out you can lift the body up enough to hold the washer/nut below it with a pipe wrench, and remove the bolt from the bottom.

I used a 3/4" drill on the cab mounts, easier to find than 25/32. Drill from the top about 1/4" down to weaken the crimp then drive it out with a punch. Grind the rest of the crimp off before reassembly, it was only there to keep things together on the assembly line.

 

[johndeerebones]

DONE

Well, got around to putting em on the other day. The front two bolts broke, not a big deal though, just pressed them out and put in some m10 bolts and lock nuts. Rear two came right out, threaded some althread into them from the top and just beat them out. Did this method on drivers side middle mount and it came right out. I then went to passengers side middle and did the air hammer trick. Bit went between all thread and inner bushing, swelling the bushing and sticking the bit. I said &*&*)&&, obviously, then began cutting the old rubber and upper flange out with a die grinder then gas axed it after the rubber was out of the way. 5 took about an hour, 1 took about 2.5 hours........
I also found my front passenger bed bolt was loose and spun in the bed when I tryed to tighten it. I welded a nut to it and had a friend hold the bolt and took the nut off the bottom. Cleaned the threads, tossed the locknut, and put on a nut with a cup washer. Then I gas axed the nut off I welded on. Tightened right up, oddly enough the rattle in my bed is gone when I hit bumps now. Shimmed the body mounts to match the bed and tighetened it down. I think the ride actually is better, like Don said, I think the cab was just doin some of the work of the suspension instead of just staying put. WELL worth the 80 bucks and 4 hours. The straight body lines are priceless.

 

[hheynow]

Nice job!

 

[rickh]

Still not 100% clear on removal of the rear mounts.
Do you drill into the rubber from inside the cab, that will take a looooong bit.
Is there a steel tube inside the stock rear mounts?
I am ready to light them up and let them burn out!!!!!
Rick H...

 

[rickh]

Progress!
Used a sawzall with long blade and cut through the rubber mount that sits on top of the frame/mount perch. Once I got through the steel tube the lower part of the mount just fell off. Of course I removed the bolt first, well on one side anyway! Have an inverter mounted behind the seat and that made pulling the bolt up not possible and I forgot it was there, oh well, trip to the hardware store 7/16" - 14 x 6" and flat washer took care of that mistake.
Used the stock top and bottom steel flange and shim. Cut the tube off but left enough to go into the replacement rubber.
Now the cab is level. Will attempt mid ship and front mounts later.
Gotta go put the fuel tank back up. I did not drop it all the way, removed the skid plate and straps and just left it hang there. I could move it enough to do what I had to do.
Glad it was empty.
Rick H...