By-Pass Engine oil & Transmission Fluid - Help in selection

[bushpilot]

If you have soot problems an oil filter isn't going to help you any. Soot is a produced from blow-by, as is nitration. Soot also will raise the viscosity of the oil and prevent proper oil flow through the engine including the filter. It will put undue stress on the pump and increase the production of wear metal particles, none of which is good for the life of the engine.

Any extra filtration on the oil is a good thing. Filters grap the fine particulate which can cause larger particles to form in the component which will help to increase longevity in the component. How long the oil will last running inside a system that has a high filtration filters depends on what type of conditions the component is operated.

A high filtration system cannot prevent viscosity increase/decrease, sulfation/nitration, oxidation, lowered TBN readings, and the increased wear particle production that these condtions create.

Bottom line is if one really wants to increase the life of the oil it is best to have regular OA preformed on the component rather than guessing.

The Navy utilizes Oil Analysis too NOAP (Navy Oil Analysis Program) /JOAP (Joint Oil Analysis) as part of PMCS http://www.msc.navy.mil/N7/engmgmt/MSCOILANALYSISPROGRAM.pdf

Not trying to sell you on OA participation, but if you decide to not adhear to published Oil change intervals then the smart money is on a good, routine Oil Analysis schedule.

i couldnt agree w/ you more...i have since my very 1st oil change sampled and
tested all but maybe TWO oil changes in 65k miles...

all indications for my situation are that both my oil & filter are performing
well at the change interval that i use (5k) and that the engine wear
is at a minimum....reports indicate that i could go longer on the oil/filter
change interval (6-7k total) but ive also been able to determine (thru sampling
and testing) that it depends on the type of driving (among other things)...and
so ive determine (again thru testing) that 5k is a consistantly SAFE change
interval.

looking at the oil is NO way to gauge a safe change interval much
less a method of determining engine wear or potential oil contamination.

 

[LA350]

The manufacturers of these components purposely put low change intervals on the oil. Certainly the oil can go much longer, but with the average Joe not actively pulling oil samples and sending them to be analyzed, they (the component manufactorer) cannot safely make a blanket statement such as not changing the oil until *** miles and not spend every waking moment in court.

Oil goes bad several ways:1) Loss of additive package; 2) High/low viscosity; 3) Physical contamination (coolant, fuel, water, soot, nitration/sulfation, ect); high wear metal content. This is pretty much it. Many times it is not just one thing that goes south but several due to the fact that some problems create other problems.

Examples: Water, coolant, EPW will raise the viscosity. More than likely oxidation will occur as will the increase in wear metals as the softer metals oxidize followed by the rusting of any ferrous metals (this rust or hematite will occur while the component is not in use and will wash off the component once it begins to operate again). As the component heats up the water will begin to evaporate as steam. As this happens the water/steam can convert to sulfuric acid creating high TAN which is combated by the oil companies by including a base additive. As this base additive neutralizes the acid the TBN # is lowered. Large amounts of moisture can lead to an acidic enviroment inside your component that will begin to etch and score vital parts creating wear metal particles and siping off the much needed oil flow.

Fuel will lower the viscosity, wash the valuble lubrication properties the oil provides from vital areas and increase wear metal production as metal to metal contact increases. These smaller particles will in turn create larger particles as the grind their way to the sump where they may or may not fall out of the oil.

Loss of additives such as antifoaming, particluate suspension, Base, coating (to combat rusting after the component is shut down), ect will eventually lose their protective benefits over time.

Pretty much any physical contaminate will increase viscosity other than fuel which will act as a solvent and thin the oil. About the only way one can look w/ the naked eye to see if you oil is "good" is by dropping a drop of oil onto a 300*F hot plate and look for 1) splatter/bubbling =water; 2) rings= ringing indicates the possible contamination w/ fuel. Another method is to obtain blotter paper and dip a paper clip into the oil and drop one drop of oil onto the paper. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes and observe looking for solid materials on the top of the paper. Ringing again will appear as fuel contamination. Heavy concentration of deposits will indicate possible soot/nitration/sulfation. Undissolved deposits will indicate possible wear metals, silicon/fibers ect.

If you do any of the following you are performing oil analysis albeit very crude methods, but these methods were actually utilized in OA some years back. Not very scientific but better than nothing.

If OA isn't performed, the best bet for long component life is to stick to the hard lube order put out by the manufactorer. Anything else is a gamble high filtration or not.
Sorry for the long reply. I can get a bit windy

 

[bushpilot]

dont bet on the mfg using conservative numbers for change intervals.
i have personally witnessed degradation of my own oil in less miles than
the mfg suggests.

the change interval in my truck is recommended @ 7k miles...i have seen
reduction in viscosity, lower flash point, loss of lubricating properties
and increases in wear metals long before 7k miles.

I stick to 5k mile change intervals because i find that the oil is still
performing reasonably well (although it is showing signs of degradation)...
i have not seen consistant indications that going to 7k change intervals
is SAFE <for me>

 

[jwplunkett]

Hello all
-Placed my order for By-Pass filtration system today ( Engine & Transmission )
-After a lengthy discussion with FS2500.com point of contact ( POC ) Randy Fields
-Randy took the time to go over every detail / question that I had
-Now try to find any other Vendor that would do that in today’s fast paced world
-Plus Randy returned my e-mail inquiry
-Again customer focused on satisfying even a small fish like me
-I also appreciated his straight forward approach
-Tell it like it is without all of the marketing hype
-I am a technical type of person and need to view the technical details to back-up the Marketing claims
-Also selected FS-2500 due to fact this is their Core business ( Filtration Systems )
-They started with the heavy equipment buyers and branched into the Diesel market after one of the Heavy equipment buyers processed a large order and desired / requested Randy and the technical Team develop a By-Pass filtration system / product for the 50 diesel Vehicles they were purchasing new
-Also liked the independent oil analysis labs performing same --- NOT in house
-Plus it is NOT based on the Toilet paper or paper towel method of filtration --- its based on a propriety patent filter that they also make in house and have total quality control over --- no passing the buck --- They take in from soup to nuts
-The same filter in universal ( Engine & Transmission ) so don’t have to stock up on different filters. ---- now the Kits ( Engine & Transmission ) are unique to each vehicle --- plus they ask you what oil currently using and provide you a Baseline then implement the FS-2500 and follow the oil analysis program of your choosing --- they have one that offer thru an outside test lab --- but I didn’t get any pressure from Randy if I chose to go with any other Testing laboratory
-As we all are fully aware the automotive industry doesn’t want any consumer type vehicle ( Like an F250 Diesel ) to run without failure --- They are in the business to sell us a replacement vehicle plus to service our vehicles so they desire failures.

-So in closing respectfully requesting all forums members that view this e-mail thread
-To conduct your own detailed investigation comparing all other competitors By-pass filtration systems to the FS-2500 --- based on the technical information I have been able to gather from all offerings I personally believe the FS-2500 is the best as of today’s date
-New advancements will continue to take place
-I point blank inquired with Randy about this very subject
-A year or so down the road if the FS2500 team comes up with a better filter ---will be compatible with the system I purchased today --- The answer was yes the technical team makes every effort to design backward compatible products
-Plus provide enhancements to existing product like the Filler tube return versus the Oil pan
-Then report back to Forum with your conclusion
-In my humble viewpoint we have an investment to protect
-So the dollars spent upfront will provide ROI at resale to potential buyer
-Or if potential buyer doesn’t view the need I will remove system and transfer to NEW vehicle
-Plus if I desire to keep truck and run it well over 250K miles
-I know that I have done all steps to increase my chances of doing so
-Without major Engine or Transmission failures
-Just my two cents worth
-Hopefully other Forums members will benefit from this thread / subject matter
-Its all about our collective sharing of information freely that makes all the difference

Many thanks in advance
John from Colfax NC

 

[Scot]

Take some pics and let us know about the trans install. I've been considering that myself.

Thanks for the detail

 

[jwplunkett]

Scot -- will do --- take digital photos of my FS-2500 installation ( Engine & Transmission ) for benefit of other forum members --- while I was speaking with Randy F he stated as part of my pending By-Pass Filtration kits ( Engine & Transmission ) that digital step by step procedures are included for a Do it yourselfer + they have Technical support if I have any questions during install to just call and they will assist as required.

I missed adding the statement on my earlier Forum submittal that FS-2500 has been in the filtration business for thirteen years and have sold many FS-2500 filtration systems --- so that also factored into my ultimate selection.

Looking forward to receiving package next week Thursday Randy estimated

Have a great one all

John from Colfax NC
2006 F250 Reg Cab Long Bed FX4 Auto Trans 6.0 Diesel - 14K miles at present

 

[jwplunkett]

Hello all

Missed adding statement on my earlier web forum submitttal
-Another factor that I considered into equation prior to making my final selection of By-Pass filtration system was FS2500.com has been in the Filtration only business ( Core product line ) for 13 yrs
-Plus they make enhancements to existing product line
-Backward compatible new filters in future

Totally don't mean to sound like a sales rep for FS2500 --- but I researched all BY-Pass filtrations systems currently on market and it's hands down FS2500 was the best plus had the independent technical data to back it up with

Hope this helps other Forum members

It's all about freely sharing of our thoughts / experiences that make any web forum valuable / powerful .... and I totally find this web forum of tremendous value

Thanks in advance as always for your return web submittal's -- both positive and negative --- collectively we need to uncover them all so we can make informed decisions .

Wishing all a great upcoming New Year holiday

John from Colfax NC

 

[jwplunkett]

By-Pass Engine oil & Transmission Filtration Sys

Figured I would add following to earlier e-mail forum thread

Per the FS2500 CD they mention Oshkosh Trucks implementing the FS2500 filtration system.

Now Oshkosk Trucks is a CUSTOM facility that takes the best parts from a wide variety of manufacturers / vendors ( Engines, Transmissions, Axles, etc and then custom design's & assemble the required product for client -- without doubt I am most certain they conducted their own internal in-depth engineering analysis and then select products best suited for each unique project.

One of those clients is the US Military and being I have a Military background plus worked on certifying material within the commercial sector to be allow to be installed aboard US Navy ships I have first hand experience the testing the product must go thru ( MIL-SPEC testing Shock, Vibration, High & low Temp, Humidity etc ) and must gain certification to be authorized to be even allow to offer / market product to client --- The MIL-SPEC testing is an extreme testing program.

Now I don't know what FS2500 had to do to get their filter systems authorized to be installed on Truck Vehicles -- but just knowing that they have been selected over the other manufacturers speak's for itself.

Only the best for our Men & Women in uniform protecting our great nation and interests abroad --- when I learn of this fact that was the final nail that I needed in my selection of FS2500 --- plus I like supporting any manufacturer that provides products to our US Military .

Take a look see at the Oshkosh Trucks web link
Cool web site
Oshkosh severe-duty trucks for defense, military, airport, municipal and concrete

John from Colfax NC

 

[jwplunkett]

By-Pass Engine oil & Transmission fluid - FS2500 Install

Good morning all

Figured I would provide an update on the http://www.FS2500.com by-pass diesel engine filtration system.

Installed yesterday evening

From start to finish taking my time --- and for once reading the Documentation in every detail plus reviewing the detailed color digital photo's ( Most helpful ) took about 4 hours --- with of course breaks with my beverage of choice

Recommend following
-Lay out a white towel on work bench
-Then cut open plastic package lay all parts on towel so all items are easy to view
-Conduct inventory
-Get as much lighting as possible for under vehicle and into front engine compartment so can view how all the cables route
-Follow the step by step details contained within FS2500 package ( Must admit a nice step by step instruction package )
-However I would ADD a step to tape off both ends of the hoses with duck tape to prevent any junk / dirt etc from getting into hose ends while routing them down and under vehicle to mount to FS2500 filter kit assembly.
-Also tape both ends of one of the hoses so when you are ready to install / connect them all at each end --- you will know what hoses is what --- two hoses gets routed to underneath vehicle ( In and Out ) of FS2500
-Would highly recommend going with the return line going to Oil Filler tube versus return to oil pan ( In kit they provide you the filler tube metal adapter ) be sure to use plenty of Teflon tape on all connections except on the connector tappered ends
-On my Model Year 2006 F250 Fx4 the skid plate is installed from factory so rather than drilling into truck rail I bend a simple bracket and used the skid plate as my mounting then used drill template from Kit for mounting of FS2500 to home made bracket --- with this approach I was able to drill all holes at the drill press --- plus if you do decide to drill into Truck frame rail EXTREME caution need be taken due to on back side of frame rail -- fuel tubes and other electrical wiring routing .
-Even if you don't have the Transfer case protection skid plate the holes should still be their from factory --- just bend you a rather heavy duty piece of metal and mount to existing drilled holes --- the FS2500 filter assembly is quite heavy and well built / heavy duty without doubt .
-Also pre-assemble all your connections to the FS2500 canister on the workbench ---- I found that I needed to run the connector in and out to get the threads to insert deep enough into assembly to give me that warm and fuzzy --- simple procedure just use oil and screw in and out a couple times
-Then wipe clean wrap with Teflon Tape use plenty it can't hurt
-Once I had the mounting bracket idea and the FS2500 Mounted it was a simple tear off the duck tape look for cables identified as IN
-Here again follow the directions that comes with kit on connecting the fittings to FS2500 and all other final fittings --- coat with oil then hand screw until tight --- then use wrench to snug up -- don't over do it.
-Tie wrap as required
-Double check no left over parts on workbench
-Start truck
-Look for leaks
-Take her for a drive at interstate speed to get all up to normal operating temperature
-Come on back to shop and double check again for no leaks
-Top off your oil being the FS2500 took a quart

All in all a very smooth / straight forward install project

Without doubt I would highly recommend this By-pass filtration kit -- all parts complete / clear simple detailed instructions and a well built unit.

I personally am most pleased --- just another one of those preventative maint measures that will pay off BIG time in my humble viewpoint in the long run / term for long life of Diesel Engine running clean oil that has been filtered via by-pass filter PLUS the Full flow .

Hope this helps all forum members a bit

Have a great one

John from Colfax NC

 

[bushpilot]

are they PAYING YOU ??? did you recv' a discount for all this spamming your
creating ???