Brake Job on my 2011

[JRJ04]

Back right brake is starting to squeal (thought it was the humidity change, but temps and humidity just dropped and its still doing it) pretty bad. I've got about 53k on it.

I know it aint rocket science to do a brake job, although I have never actually done one by myself. What would I be getting into just removing the pads? Do I need any special sort of tool? Seems like I remember seeing you have to have a big clamp to hold the caliper?

Anyone ever tackled this? Rotors seem to be ok as I dont have any vibration at all. I would assume if you replace one side its best to replace the other?

 

[Dogman]

Just need a big C-clamp to push the piston in.

 

[JRJ04]

Are the rears any different than the fronts? Discs all the way around?

 

[f100cleveland]

About a year ago I had to replace my right rear caliper. Napa said they sell a few because of the salt corrosion we have up here from winter road sat making them stick. I did just the one side and seems fine. Only 50k on it then. Like whats been said. Big c clamp works.

 

[JRJ04]

well i gotta say...i replaced all 4 sets of pads this weekend...i cant believe ive ever paid anyone for a brake job! i thought the problem was the rear based on what i could hear. I pulled the pads off and compared them to the new ones i had. They looked maybe half worn..maybe a little past. For the nominal cost of the pads, I figured since i had everything pulled apart I would just go ahead and replace them.

I had read you need to take the cap off the reservoir before compressing the piston. Didnt have an issue with the back.

Low and behold, the squealing continued and so i did the fronts tonight. Pulled those off and compared them to the new ones...holy moly the new ones are thick. New ones were about an inch thick and the ones on there had less than 1/4 inch left so it was gonna be soon.When i compressed the pistons...I had a substantial amount of fluid come out of the reservoir. As the pads wear, does the overall capacity of the system increase because the pistons stay pushed further out? Would make sense but never done one of these so I'm curious

 

[DaveBen]

You are pushing brake fluid back into the brake cylinder when you squeeze the pads back. It will overflow, as more fluid has been added to the master cylinder.

Dave

 

[captbob]

I am curious as to whether or not the squealing stopped after changing the front pads too! Thanks for a great topic.x

 

[JRJ04]

I am curious as to whether or not the squealing stopped after changing the front pads too! Thanks for a great topic.x

squealing is completely gone and the truck stops wayyyyyyy better now. you can see how badly worn my front pads were.

 

[DaveBen]

Brake pad makers build in the squeal so you know your pads are worn out.

Dave

 

[dpantazis]

huh?

Brake pad makers build in the squeal so you know your pads are worn out.

umm, how do they do that? There are no squealer tabs on these pads.

Jourdan-

1. See that gap in the middle of the new pad, its a wear indicator of sorts, so that you know you have got close to the limit on pad life.
2. Fronts wear faster on these trucks because they are nose HEAVY due to the weight of the diesel motor. They do wear faster.
3. Amount of fluid is fixed in the bake system. The reason the level does 'down' is because the fluid makes up the volume of the piston when it pushes the pad as they wear. Think about how it works. The pressure system is closed system.

as far as brakes being 'easy' goes... ask JLDickmon about 'easy'.... they are not bad if everything is run of the mill, and certainly doable by most home mechanics.

dp