Ball Joints

[JOAT]

F350 is going to be different. Any parts store should be able to get you the right ball joints though.

While you're in there I'd put in the energy suspension radius arm and axle pivot bushings too. The axle bushings are a pain cause you have to re-use the shell, but the radius arm bushings are easy.

I'm not certain if the tie-rod boots are they same, but you can contact energy suspension support and get the right p/n

 

[ranaumo]

Ball Joints Finished

Well, job done and much thanks to y'all for the help.
I went with the ones from Napa that have the lifetime warranty on them. Only problem was the funky blue polyurethane grease boots were somewhat squished when putting back the oem adjuster on the passenger side.
Alignment went ok.

Next question, I still have a little shimmy (bad FL roads) and the only thing I have not replaced in the front end is the steering stabilizer (no prob, looks like rancho is the way to go, from web searching) and the twin I beam rubber bushings. I brought a set from energy suspensions.

Now, what is the trick to getting the OEM ones out? I tried once before on a Bronco I owned and gave up...

Ron

 

[JOAT]

The bushings can be a pain. They press in pretty easy but getting them out intact is near impossible.

If you need to re-use the shells for the energy suspension bushings (annoying), leave the old ones in. Start by heating the inside with a propane torch (outdoors, it stinks) As the rubber burns it will eventually get soft enough to just push out clean. Try not to apply excessive heat to the axles.

If you buy new OEM ones you can heat from the outside of the shell, then press the empty shells in.

If you are pressing the old ones out completely, often they just don't want to go with a C press. In that case just start on the exposed lip of the shell, using a punch ton bend it inward all the way around. Then drive against the bent part with a punch, and it will go out pretty easy. Install the new ones carefully. If you get them a little sideways the shell will bulge and then you'll be buying a new one. Usually easier to pull them thru with a bolt, rather thean pressing them in.

Hope that makes sense...

 

[BamaSixGun]

hey ron, comin to ya from NA = northern alabama.

glad to see ya here at SDD.

i got hit in my ball joints once playing baseball.

didn't have to replace anything tho.

original equipment still works great

 

[ranaumo]

OEM

hey ron, comin to ya from NA = northern alabama.

glad to see ya here at SDD.

i got hit in my ball joints once playing baseball.

didn't have to replace anything tho.

original equipment still works great

Well, I guess that means you're still running with OEM ball joints.
That's good, so you didn't have to worry about excessive grease in the locker room... Sorry, could'nt resist.

Glad to hear from you. I do a fair bit of travelling through AL. It's usually on two wheels so I can see the scenery.

Ron

 

[ranaumo]

Interesting, that's what I was told to do on my bronco, was to burn them.
Just don't seem right, setting fire to the truck. Well I guess it's a good thing it's red (like a fire engine)

I guess this will be a good use for that left over can of mapp gas, sitting on the shelf. Wonder if I can borrow a big fan and aim it across the street, towards that ditzy neighbor... This may just turn out to be a good day afterall...

Looking at the replacements, it looks like they just push into the holes, no sleeves. So the replacement should be a breeze.


Ron

 

[JOAT]

The replacements should have instructions telling whether you need the old shells. If you don't, you shouldn't need to burn them out. Have fun

 

[ranaumo]

Finished!

Thanks y'all for the pointers and help.
The Energy Suspension part for the twin I-beam bushings was 4.3121G (graphite - black).

I did need to torch out the old ones. The sleeve I needed to reuse looked pressed in. I did not attempt to pull it out. While it was still warm, I used an old pocket knife to scrape it clean. I recommend using a lot of teh included grease to help in putting the inner sleeve in after the components are installed in proper order.

The grease cups that I used on the tie rod ends were 9.13105G
The grease cups i used for the steering joing and the inner tie rod was 9.13101G.

Could have just purchased two kits of teh 9.13105G, but since my truck was not listed in their catalog, I brought the two kits to give me better options in case the one did not fit.

Hope this helps.

Ron

 

[rickh]

BIG HAMMER AND TORCH!
I am on my second ones and need replaced again! Minor consolation, they are lifetime warr. Just wish they would last a lifetime! Guess the 8 1/2' plow puts a little extra on them.
I suspected mine when I was hearing a popping when brake applied at low speed. Jacked up LF and sure enough. Steers and drives fine though.
Do not forget adjusters. First set I put in and then took it to ford for alignment, they said they had to change the adjusters beacuse their machine had to have a certian kind. Dhoooo.. Another 50 bucks not including the 45 I had in the adjusters I had just installed! Second set, I checked with a diff. alignment shop (heavy truck) FIRST and used the adjusters they wanted.
Rick H...

 

[iracemine]

new guy alert

was trying to search for info on the 2WD twin I beam bushings and this is all i can find. was kinda looking for more of a how too on the bushing (king-pin) with out buying the shop manual. yes im that cheep. I dont make alot of money and have always got good help from people on my mazda forums. thanks in advance for any help.

F250 99 SD 2WD
shade tree tools