Back from trip and a ?

[happeetxn]

Howdy All,
Well we made it back last night from our trip to Ellinwood Ks. from Dallas Tx. A round trip of 1020 miles. The truck did fine up and back, but yesterday was tough going thru Oklahoma where we had a 7000 mph head wind we drove into. Ok maybe not 7000 mph more like 5500 mph. Most of the way was driving thru smoke and haze of the fires, really feel for those people up there.
While the truck rolled over to 307K miles it developed 2 minor problems. The first is the fuel pump, it started weeping, bummer, but got a new one and it will go on in the next day or two. The second problem is the radiator has a pin hole leak. My question to y'all is how do I fix it? If I pour that stop leak stuff in there am I compromising my water pump? Also will that stuff plug up holes that haven't quite busted all of the way thru or will I be forever chasing leaks? If I go with a new radiator any recommendations on where to get it and what should I expect to pay?
Also, just for inquiring minds diesel fuel prices ranged from a low of 2.22 to a whopping high of 2.69!!!! REDICULOUS!
Hope y'all have a good one and thanks in advance for the requested information.
Craig

 

[DaveBen]

I am glad you made it home without major problems. I personally change the radiator if it has a leak. My reasoning is that is only the first leak out of many more to come. Change it and be done with it. I can't vouch for Stop Leak or Pepper to fix leaks, but it will work on a temporary basis.

Dave

 

[hheynow]

If I go with a new radiator any recommendations on where to get it and what should I expect to pay?

A radiator for your truck ('95 7.3L Auto) will cost $400.00 at powerstrokeshop.com.

 

[95_stroker]

I will ditto the new radiator suggestion. If you got 307K miles out of it, call it a day and put in a new one. It will most likely start to leak soon after you repair the current leak.

 

[Crumm]

I would never dump that gunk in mine either. Time for a new one.

 

[BJS]

as get me home soloutions I've put pepper, grits, & raw egg in the radiator (it needs to be cold for the egg to work otherwise it cooks immediately. The stop leak stuff has worked in the past however it leaves coatings on everything which drops the efficency of the radiator & the cooling system.


If you're running a '95 and depending on where the leak is a radiator shop may be able to fix the problem. However they CANNOT rod the radiator due to the internal design. They can vat the radiator in an attempt to clean it out.

 

[powerboatr]

got to jump on the cart here
at that many miles, do a real good flush, new hoses and put in a new radiator, then you could get maybe another several hundred thousand more miles

 

[happeetxn]

Howdy All,
Thanks for the replies. I am pricing new radiators around the D/FW area and plan to put in a filter system that I saw on a PSD website. What other upgrades to the cooling system can I make while I am doing all of this? Especially any inexpensive upgrades. And by the way if I haven't said it before...........this site is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY better than an unamed site that I used to vist quite frequently.
Y'all have a good day!
Craig

 

[BJS]

upgrades while you're in there.... So how much ya' lookin' to spend

International Waterpump w/ filter included especially if you're nearing the 150k mark on this pump
heater hoses
thermostat (dieselsite 203° if late 95+)
dieselsite billet thermostat housing (only can do w/ early '95 which has true rad cap)

 

[hheynow]

upgrades while you're in there.... So how much ya' lookin' to spend

International Waterpump w/ filter included especially if you're nearing the 150k mark on this pump
heater hoses
thermostat (dieselsite 203° if late 95+)
dieselsite billet thermostat housing (only can do w/ early '95 which has true rad cap)

I'll add to this list by recommending a coolant filter setup like THIS ONE at dieselsite.com. I've had one for two years. Didn't the '95s come with a 203* t-stat? I believe dieselsite's 203* is designed for '96 & '97s with the newer design waterpump.