Alternator

Jetpilot1

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So I noticed my alternator voltage was not as high as normal- running mid 12v to low 13's, when it used to hit 14's regularly (no codes - yet). I run a webasto diesel heater in the winter, so the batteries need more charging than normal when it is used. Both batteries load checked OK, so I deceided to replace the alternator. I searched alot of alternator companies that specialized in high output alternators, but this one seemed most promising.

6G Series Heavy Duty Bridge Rectifier High Output Alternator

They have a lot of selection for different output's, and I settled on the 160 amp big case version with heavy duty internal rectifiers.

If you do alot of winching, etc, they have even bigger ones with external HD rectifiers.

The best feature of these alternators are as follows:

Big case alternator - able to provide more amps at low rpms, bigger bearings, and more cooling capacity than the small case original.

Heavy duty rectifier - normally the part that quits first with OE alternator.

It was cheaper than Ford was quoting for the OE replacement, so there was no downside to replacing it with the big case, high output alternator.

Voltage now sits at 14v - independent of RPM.

Salesman was really good - sold me the alternator I needed - not the biggest and most expensive they have.

Plug and play replacement - I only had to enlarge the ID of the heavy cable to fit the new connection, real easy.

Check them out.
 

DaveBen

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I will be going to one of these big case alternators, when the time comes. Looks good on paper.

Dave
 

BIGMike

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I'm looking into replacing this spring with a 160 amp but someone said I should check with the dealer to see if the truck computer will recognize it
 

architect-builder

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I put the 200A heavy duty model in mine in November after losing the 2nd "stock" one. With all my Schtuff, I'm sure I was taxing the stock ones. This thing has not missed a lick. Even with everything on, needle on my volt guage does not move. However, they did not have the 250A one when I ordered, or I would have gotten that. I am very happy so far. When Rach's goes in her EX, I will be replacing it with one of these as well, (probably just not as big, of course, I could put the 200A in hers, and get me the new 250A..........)

Barrett
 

Jetpilot1

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I've been driving her all day, starter spins noticeably faster, now that the batterry is fully charged. Steady 14V.

Big Mike - if you have a single alternator setup - no issues at all, just hook up and go.

The 160 will be plenty for most of us, unless you are using heavy electrical load for stereos or winching or whatever.

I think one area where this alternator really shines is low rpm output.

With the heavy rectifier and bigger fan and cooling, it should be more reliable than the old OE alternator. Just running the injectors is a big job for the alternator.
 

BIG JOE

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I've been driving her all day, starter spins noticeably faster, now that the batterry is fully charged. Steady 14V.

Big Mike - if you have a single alternator setup - no issues at all, just hook up and go.

The 160 will be plenty for most of us, unless you are using heavy electrical load for stereos or winching or whatever.

I think one area where this alternator really shines is low rpm output.

With the heavy rectifier and bigger fan and cooling, it should be more reliable than the old OE alternator. Just running the injectors is a big job for the alternator.

My Update:

Everything Jetpilot sez.

Big White truck came yesterday.. R&R'd the OE Alt. with the 160 amp in about 30 minutes.. A notable difference in everything.

I'd say, if your Alternator craps out or is getting weak.. Step up a notch (or 2) with the replacement.. in Amp capacity.

More amps, with a tad smaller pulley (I think) contributes to more output @ idle.. fer shur.

GREAT Customer Service and Timely shipping from Quick Start too ;tu

Life is good.

Joe
 

Matt24601

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Truck died on Tuesday. I had it towed in to the local dealership to diagnose. Wednesday I find out that it is a bad alternator. My tow is going to cost me $33, the diagnostic test $35, and the replacement alternator and install would run $380 putting me at $450 for the whole ordeal. Ridiculous! Thanks to the forum, I had read this thread about the upgrade alternators available. I called alternatorparts.com and ordered the 160amp 6G replacement unit. Ordered Wednesday, delivered Saturday, and installed today. I paid $279.99 and $20 for shipping. $300 + the $70 charge at the dealership and I am back on the road. Customer service was was great and I am happy with my decision.

A few install notes that I personally ran into :

1. Removal of the serpentine belt was a chore. I went to Autozone to get the removal tool, but getting it where it needed to be ended up being harder than just the old pry off method.

2. When I went to reattach the main current lead to the back of the new alternator it wouldn't fit, the hole was too small, barely. I drilled it out to 5/16 to find that I didn't have enough clearance to put the boot back on and getting the nut to thread. I had to cut about 1/4 inch off of the excess plastic to get the clearance I needed.

Original Alternator Attached
Modified Boot

So far so good. Here are some comparison pictures of the new and old units

Notice the larger case and the smaller pulley on the upgrade unit.
Top View

I don't know if you can read it or not, but the sticker on the old unit says "REMANUFACTURED", I guess the previous owner had issues too.


Install complete and the new part # from alternatorparts.com
 
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nascar_fan28

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i have a good shop in town that rebuilds... was thinking about going that route.. but seen this thread.. i run a big stereo, and might need the extra ummfff . main reason i started thinking about this , is the battery light flickered on and off other day at idle... but once i drove it went away and didnt come back.. im guessing im nearing time.. also could a alternator going out hurt my ficm? and do you just tighten belt to make up difference in smaller pulley? thanks guys
 

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