Alternator replacement (6.0 Diesel)

[Roadie]

Help needed: Alternator replacement (6.0 Diesel)

So I just had a garage perform a diagnostic on my alternator and they reported its on the fritz...only putting out 5 volts. I bought a new one and plan on replacing tomorrow. I have the Helms Inc workshop manual and it calls for removing the cooling fan...the cooling fan instructions calls for removing the radiator. I'm guessing this is all to get to the tensioner for the belt. My question is, do I really need to remove the radiator and cooling fan in order to loosen the belt, in order to replace the alternator? Or can I do the replacement without removing? I've got an experienced mechanic to help me tomorrow, but don't have access to him until then, and just trying to get a better feel for whats involved before I show up tomorrow. Appreciate any feedback...

 

[DaveBen]

I have not replaced my alternator yet, so I may not know everything about it. As I recall you will need to cut the top off the radiator shroud. There are two lines and bolt holes about 6 inches down from the top of the shroud. This will allow you to get the new belt in place. I don't recall if you can get to the tensioner without removing the radiator or not. Take a look. Helms is the Ford manual and it is good.

Dave

 

[snicklas]

Roadie,

I have replaced my alternator several times, and have not removed anything but the alternator, and the topmost shield on the fan shroud, right behind the Power Stroke Badge.

Here is what I have done. (Done it enough now I can replace an alternator by myself in about 15 minutes with a 3/8 Drive Ratchet and the appropriate sockets. A 15mm and 10mm I think, and a flat-blade screwdriver

1. UNHOOK BOTH BATTERIES, you have live battery voltage present at the alternator all the time 24/7. Just a safety reminder, and you could fry something if you cause a short

2. Remove the small shroud extension that is on the rear lip of the fan shroud. It extends from about the center of the truck to the passenger side, wrapping around the outside lip of the shroud. Use the flat-blade screwdriver to pop the "clips" loose that hold this extension on.

3. Unplug the connector, and place safely out of the way. Be careful, do not break the retainer clip.

4. Remove the larger charge wire from the rear of the alternator, and place it safely out of the way. This is the reason you disconnect the batteries, as this wire has battery voltage present at all times.

5. Loosen the 3 bolts holding the alternator to the mount. Once they are loose, I keep pressure "down" (toward block) to keep the alt sitting on the mount properly. Remove the 3 bolts from the mount/alt. Once the bolts are removed, allow the to tip downward, releasing the tension on the belt. It will not move far. Do not let the belt slip off the pulley. Once you have the tension mostly released, I connect a bungee cord to the belt, and the hood to keep the belt on the rest of the pulleys.

6. Set the new alt in place, tipped down and replace the belt on the pulley.

7. Line up the mounting holes and replace the bolts. I find replacing the bolts closest to the pulley first, thread them partally in,then replace the rear bolt in, make the process go easier. Tighten the mounting bolts to reinstall alt, and retention the belt...

8. Replace the large charge line on the stud, and reconnect the connector to the rear of the alternator.

9. Replace small shroud onto main shroud.

This is what I have done several times, and has worked well. I have not cut the fan shroud yet, and only will when I replace the water pump.... which on my truck, has decided to start to leak......

 

[Roadie]

Thanks to both of you! so under the hood your 2003 excursion looks like my 2004 F-250? cool.

another question: what is the purpose of removing the shroud? is that so you have more room to work? I know i sound like a noob, its because I am. Glad I'll be in capable hands tomorrow.

 

[Roadie]

Snicklas, just saw a pic of the shroud...its in the way...I got it...thx.

 

[DaveBen]

I guess I was thinking of replacing the belt as well. Thanks Snicklas!

 

[bomberman760]

One thing I found out after replacing my EGR cooler is that the belt tensioner was inaccessible for a ratchet - the radiator is damn near flush against it. Just have to muscle the belt up. Not hard if your rage level is high enough from the project...and be careful where you post your feet or knees as to not break something, or yourself!

 

[Roadie]

OK the replacement is done. I didn't have to remove the shroud. Banged my thumb getting the new alternator in place and belt looped onto it...but the job only took about 20 minutes. multimeter now reads 14V on the batteries when the truck is running compared to the 11.95 it was registering with the old alternator. Even noticed my headlights shine a bit brighter now. Is that just my imagination or does the stronger volt output impact that as well? Thanks so much for all the tips!

 

[SootPowered]

It's easier to use the tip down method as described below. I have changed out a few on the 6.0L's in the parking lot of a local parts store using their belt tension tool set and didn't remove anything except the alt and belt.

 

[snicklas]

OK the replacement is done. I didn't have to remove the shroud. Banged my thumb getting the new alternator in place and belt looped onto it...but the job only took about 20 minutes. multimeter now reads 14V on the batteries when the truck is running compared to the 11.95 it was registering with the old alternator. Even noticed my headlights shine a bit brighter now. Is that just my imagination or does the stronger volt output impact that as well? Thanks so much for all the tips!

Here is one think that can happen because of low voltage.... see my thread about the FICM Repair that is currently in-progress for my truck. This unit takes the 12VDC and "amplifies" it to 48VDC..... mine does not do that anymore.....