2004 F250 with 93k miles with nothing special on it but what it came with from the factory. One month ago my battery light would come on then go off. My ScanGauge II would show below 12 volts when the battery light comes on. I started the alternator and battery checking circuit at several different auto parts stores, battery shops, and alternator rebuilding places. Every place I went told me my alternator and batteries were good. These checks were with alternator/batteries in the truck and later with the alternator/batteries removed from the truck. Then the battery light came on and stayed on, so I hit the alternator with a hammer and the alternator started working. So I went to the local parts store for a quick fix with one of the standard replacement for life alternator. Then yesterday, less than 1,000 miles the battery light came back on and stayed on no matter what I did/hit/pull/ etc… ScanGauge reads between 11.8 to 12.0 volts. Off comes the alternator and a replacement goes on. Startup and the ScanGauge reading are between 12.3 to 12.6 volts no matter the rpm’s. Take a test drive and no change. I took a volt meter and checked from the stud on top of alternator to a ground on truck I get between 13.3 to 13.6 volts. So today off with this alternator and another one goes on. Get better ScanGauge reading. They are now between 12.8 to 13.8 volts. But most of the time the ScanGauge is reading around 13.3 volts. When the ScanGauge is reading 12.8 volts I checked at the alternator top stud to truck ground I get 13.8 volts. A check of battery is 13.8 volts. So it looks like I still have a bad alternator or is my ScanGauge is not reading right. I also check all cables and ground wires, etc… and all are good. I have all way felt that my ScanGauge has not given me correct readings. I had to send it back for not coming on three months ago. Looks like it is time to find a better/more amps/etc… alternator and send the ScanGauge back for repair.
Alternator Problems and/or ScanGauge Problem
- Thread starter frankmako
- Start date
I can tell you from my experience that i went through 2 alternators that showed up bad off the shelf, i never even got them out the door because i make them test before i leave the local auto zone.
i finally broke down and spent the couple hundred for the good alternator from the guys at the alternator shop i think it was in detroit. you can find them online. I can also tell you that i get a different read on my edge gauges than what i read on the volt meter at the alternator, i believe there is a voltage drop once it leaves the alternator and i have never looked at this as an issue since my charging system works good now for almost 2 years.
i finally broke down and spent the couple hundred for the good alternator from the guys at the alternator shop i think it was in detroit. you can find them online. I can also tell you that i get a different read on my edge gauges than what i read on the volt meter at the alternator, i believe there is a voltage drop once it leaves the alternator and i have never looked at this as an issue since my charging system works good now for almost 2 years.
i am now going on my fourth alternator today. also i put in two new batteries. something is killing the alternators or they are just bad. if it hit the alternator with a hammer the battery light will go off and the volts will go back up. at this point i am at a stand still where to look and/or check to fit this problem.
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
That sounds like a loose solder joint. Try these guys: High output alternators, High Amp Alternators, Alternator & Starter Parts - Home Several people here have used them and like them.
Dave
Dave
