aftermarket turbo wheel question

ferdtucks

sean
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i have been told by the local diesel performance shop that it is not a good idea to install a turbo wheel on a stock turbo unless you have it balanced on the turbo it could lead to pre mature failure if its not balanced properly? i read all the time of people just bolting these things on (wicked wheel for example) are they wrong or is there truth behind this.

and also i am in debate between the banks big head actuator and the turbomaster wastegate controller witch is better?

another question someone posted a thread- to get more noise out of the turbo take off the insulation wrap on the innercooler tubes that comes factory, wouldnt that just make the tubes hotter now that there exposed to more heat? and increase the temp. of air going into the motor? how would that make the turbo louder?

01 ford f-350 sb intake,4 in full exhaust,evolution programer,aih delete ,tranny pan. i tow a 20 foot enclosed trailer and daily drive to maybe help answer the second question
 

dboyw

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I think I can help with two out of three.

The turbo wheel come to you balanced and can go on with out problems. Many here and there have done just that. I did too earlier this year and ran fine. BUT, I had a turbo failure, pretty sure unrelated to the wheel install. So before I put the new turbo on, I took it to a shop to be balanced. I figured for $50, it was worth it.

Just remember, it spins around 30,000+ RPM, with a thin film of oil on the barrings.

For the intercooler pipe, this is what I think I remember reading. The pipe with the insulation is the pipe coming from the turbo. Already hot as HE!!. But since this is right after the turbo, it muffles the sound slightly. I had not remove it yet, but plan to when I have to change the turbo pedestal.

As for the actuators, sorry, haven't done or read much to give a good answer. But someone will be along soon.

And if I am wrong, please correct me.

Thanks
 

roosterdiesel

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My local rebuilder told me the wheels and shaft are balanced separately. But he always balances them when getting rebuilt. It's your call. I recommend puling the turbo, EBPV and exhaust housing to put the shaft in a vise to hold it when removing the stock wheel. No need in tweaking anything.

As for the actuators...I would rather have one that references boost instead of relying on the back pressure to over come the spring. Go with the BBHA.

I removed the insulation when I put in the 6OH intercooler. Not much noise change if any. Won't be able to log manifold air temp changes since they would be thrown off by the different IC. BTW...Banks tubes don't have insulation, I believe they were there more for noise and keeping heat IN the tube to not raise underhood temps. The air coming out of the charger is hotter than the air under the hood.

:2c
 

Lifted_Stroker

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its just like rooster said they balanced seperately. As for the waste gate actuators, go with the turbo master, its fully adjustable unlike the banks
i have the turbo master and couldnt be any happier. just make sure that u have a boost relief valve, after about two cranks past stock on that actuator nut it will throw the overboost code.:sweet
 

CSIPSD

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Lifted_Stroker said:
its just like rooster said they balanced separately. As for the waste gate actuators, go with the turbo master, its fully adjustable unlike the banks
i have the turbo master and couldn't be any happier. just make sure that u have a boost relief valve, after about two cranks past stock on that actuator nut it will throw the overboost code.:sweet


Ditto on the turbomaster... Been there for a year and is now on my BB. I have installed 6 Wicked wheels, all done in the truck, all without balancing, and all are still going strong. That shop is trying to take you $$$ for a turbo remove and reinstall.

The Insulation is on there for one reason, for sound deaden. Ford put it on after costumer complaints on the early 99's for turbo noise. Also one of the reasons they changed turbos. Nothing to do with heat!:thumbs
 

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