A/C Orifice Mod?

[VinceJE]

I'm referring to the mod on PowerStrokeHelp.com where he describes changinf the orifice tube to get better (colder) A/C performance. But... He doesn't really mention what models this will work on.

Is this mod valid for my 2004 6.0L ??

It's HOT as heck here in Houston already and I've never been completely satisfied with how well (or poorly) the A/C keeps up with all that big airspace in the crew-cab. The air just doesn't seem cold enough coming out of the vents to keep up with the heat. So... If this mod will drop it a few degrees, then I think it would be a big help. The system pressures etc. are all within spec... I'm just looking for how I can get it to cool a little better. My GMC's A/C will freeze you out in less than 10 minutes down the road if you don;t turn it down. It's almost too cold (if there is such a thing in this heat!)

 

[JRJ04]

i know there is a heater core shut-off valve you can buy from dieselsite, but thats for the 7.3's. im not sure if the 6.0's are set up that way or not...they might already have the valve.

What you can do (and I feel this helped a lot) is go to your hardware store (lowes, home depot etc) and buy the aluminum foil tape. Wrap the charge lines in it from the compressor all the way to the evap coil in the box. I did this, and then also put some on top of my compressor. Air seems to blow pretty cold after that. My truck can be sitting in the hot sun, i can get in crank it on full blast and crack the windows for a bit and within prob 5 min i can turn it down a notch or 2.

 

[JLDickmon]

you can get thermostatic orifice tubes for most vehicles.. I'd change the accumulator on it while you have the system open as well..

--edit--
I might even go as far as telling you to do a 5% tint on the windows as well if local laws allow... helps a LOT with heat load..

 

[dpantazis]

i know there is a heater core shut-off valve you can buy from dieselsite, but thats for the 7.3's

bob's valve is nice, but the $9 one for any year ranger or explorer works just as good too. i dont even bother hooking up the vacuum line, i just wire it shut/open for late spring to late fall.

6-no's and 7.3's benefit from the bypass valve.

 

[JRJ04]

bob's valve is nice, but the $9 one for any year ranger or explorer works just as good too. i dont even bother hooking up the vacuum line, i just wire it shut/open for late spring to late fall.

6-no's and 7.3's benefit from the bypass valve.

$9 bucks? shoot...i need to go get that myself. is there a how to anywhere as far as installing it goes?

 

[dboyw]

Here are the pics I took when I did the ranger valve mod. You position the valve so when you close the valve, coolant flows into and then out of the valve, bypassing the heater core. I tied into the red vacuum line, behind the glove box. It closes the valve when the switch is in vent/AC/AC MAX or vent/floor position. This does not allow any control of temp settings. I like it as cold as I can get it. I do forget which one will only close when you turn on max only. The stopcock I got from work. In the winter I close off the valve so I can have heat in any setting.

 

[Zmann ARGH]

allot of 6.0's have the valve already

 

[DaveBen]

I have one from the Factory.

Dave

 

[clintusaf]

i know there is a heater core shut-off valve you can buy from dieselsite, but thats for the 7.3's. im not sure if the 6.0's are set up that way or not...they might already have the valve.

What you can do (and I feel this helped a lot) is go to your hardware store (lowes, home depot etc) and buy the aluminum foil tape. Wrap the charge lines in it from the compressor all the way to the evap coil in the box. I did this, and then also put some on top of my compressor. Air seems to blow pretty cold after that. My truck can be sitting in the hot sun, i can get in crank it on full blast and crack the windows for a bit and within prob 5 min i can turn it down a notch or 2.

hey Jourdan, you think you could snap a quick pic of what you are talking about? I'm still not too familiar with A/C systems.

 

[clintusaf]

Here are the pics I took when I did the ranger valve mod. You position the valve so when you close the valve, coolant flows into and then out of the valve, bypassing the heater core. I tied into the red vacuum line, behind the glove box. It closes the valve when the switch is in vent/AC/AC MAX or vent/floor position. This does not allow any control of temp settings. I like it as cold as I can get it. I do forget which one will only close when you turn on max only. The stopcock I got from work. In the winter I close off the valve so I can have heat in any setting.

I did the A/C mod a while back as well, but now it seems to work off and on. It seems to be reactive to my RPM's. (Blows cold at higher RPM, and room temp air below 1000 RPMS) I'm wobdering if i got a bad valve. I bought the ranger/explorer one from orielly's for like $24. I tapped into the white line where it only works in MAX AC. This has been driving me up the wall lately. It is HOT and HUMID in Lousiana right now. What should i do guys?

Where'd you get the one for $9 DP?