A/C not blowing cold all the time.

[sagebel]

Well now that I'm down here 2 miles from hell, it's a bit warm. The A/C does fine when driving 75mph on the the interstate but when I slow down the temperature goes up. Am I in need of a re-charge? Also, does the heater bypass mod really work to drop the temps?

Scott

 

[JLDickmon]

Well now that I'm down here 2 miles from hell, it's a bit warm. The A/C does fine when driving 75mph on the the interstate but when I slow down the temperature goes up. Am I in need of a re-charge? Also, does the heater bypass mod really work to drop the temps?

Scott

well, it could need to be recharged...
the fan clutch might not be working properly and drawing enough air across the condensor, it could be the compressor starting to give up, or it could be normal operation for a R134a system...

before everyone starts jumping in here guessing "...when mine did that it was this..." let's get some background facts..

can you hear the cooling fan "kick in" under the hood? Either electric or clutch driven, they make a hell of a whooping noise when they're moving air...

clutch cycle time... does it kick on and run for a while and kick out for a few seconds, or does it kick in and out rapidly? Compare it with something you know the A/C works in (wife's car, neighbors truck, etc)... they don't have to have the exact cycle times, something relatively close is good enough.

are the low pressure lines sweating while the system is in operation?

when was the last time you had the A/C serviced, if at all?

We need to know this stuff... A/C repairs are too damn expensive to be guessing parts... but I will say this; if you do need to have the system broken into and repaired, I'm going to have you put a thermal orfice tube in it... For $35, they lower duct temps around 5-7 degrees (which is a BUNCH if it's 85degress outside the cab)...

 

[sagebel]

I'll have to look at that stuff next time I drive it which may not be for a few days. Thanks giving me some direction.

Scott

 

[sandlapper]

I had the same problem. Mine was fairly easy to fix.

Mine would blow cool and then stop until I reved up a little and then it would cool for awhile and then I 'd have to do it all over. What I found was my compressor would kick in and when it cycled off the compressor would not engage again.I could take a screw driver and just barely touch the clutch plate and bam it would work. Take the clutch plate off and behind it is a washer. I ground the washer down about half way until I had .030" clearence. Make sure to feel down in there. ine has been working good as new now. To remove the plate take the three bolts holding your coolant res. in and just move it out of the way. You don't have drain or dissconnect anything. There is a bolt in the center of the plate. I used a pipe wrench to hold the plate and remove the bolt. Slide plate off. It takes about 10 mins for that.

I also did the heater core by-pass using the ford ranger valve. It takes about 15 mins to do and it made a big difference. Biggest difference felt when sitting still. If you are interested let me know.

I live in Brunswick over by Satilla Marsh Elementry so I know your situation as far as heat goes.

 

[SMOKNZ]

I also did the heater core by-pass using the ford ranger valve. It takes about 15 mins to do and it made a big difference. Biggest difference felt when sitting still. If you are interested let me know.

I thought a vendor was selling these things a while back, but I haven't been able to find it again. Can you go into detail over the ranger valve?

Thanks

Bill

 

[sandlapper]

The Auto Zone # 74809. This is for the By-pass valve. You will also need a 1/8" vaccum tee and about 6' of 1/8" vaccum line. Tie the bypass valve into your heater core lines and the vaccum line into the white vaccum tube behind the glovebox. Push in on the sides of the glove box when opened and the box will drop on down. Will see an actuator and red, blue, black, and white tubes. The white tube will work the valve in max AC only. When you splice in I just ran the white tubes inside of the 1/8" line as far as I could. Also it supposedly doesn't matter which way the valve is installed. The whole thing only costs about $25.00 or so. Pretty cheap but it has made a difference in mine. I notice it mainly when idling after long hard pulls. My AC used to get real hot when at lights and such. Not anymore.

 

[sagebel]

I live in Brunswick over by Satilla Marsh Elementry so I know your situation as far as heat goes.

I just moved here from Washington (state) so I'm not too familiar with the area. I can find the Home Depot and I know where the new Lowes is going in. I'm just off of 17 in "downtown" Waverly.

Now back on topic. I have never had the system serviced. 180K on truck. The A/C works great as long I am on the interstate and even then after a period, It will become less cold. In town, no cold. I know the fan is working because I can hear it. I guess I'll check the compressor clutch next.

Scott

 

[sandlapper]

I live off Hwy 17 on Southport Pwky. It's close to Stokes welding shop down from Hwy 82 intersection heading toward Waverly in Camden County.

Been here for 12 years. I'm from NC. If you need help finding anything let me know.

 

[sandlapper]

Where did you get your seats? I see you have 2005 seats.

 

[sagebel]

A buddy rolled his '05, now I got new seats. Should'a grabbed his A/C too. I'll send a PM if I need to find to anything.

Scott