6.0 with overheating issues

[Teggleston]

4th of July weekend I was about 500 miles from home when I was fueling up and noticed an oil leak. I decided to head home and watch my oil level, truck ran great and got me home, left one heck of a mess on my undercarriage and on my white horse trailer. A week later when the temperature dropped to 95 degrees at 9pm i went out with my steth a camera (Cordless Digital Inspection Camera) and found the leak coming from the ICP sensor.

Long story short I was to lazy to fix it myself so I bought the part and had a mobile mechanic come out the we use periodical. He dug into the project started by removing my air cleaner housing, then my fill tank, at what time he broke the hose assembly the this connects too, then the computer off the valve cover. After all this he then decided he should remove the turbo at which time I said stop!! I told him how to do the job by removing the rear shield and replacing it from there. He then ran to ford got a new hose assembly put it back together started the truck check everything and headed down the road.

This is where my problem starts next day I got in the truck and started it and thought it seamed to be running rough. It didn't feel like it had the same power that it had prior to some dip sh@t working on it at about 40 miles an hour it shook like it had a tire out of balance then it went away at about 45. It ran great at higher speeds after about 8 miles it heated up to red line on the Gage so I pulled over and got out to check it and it didn't seem hot. Got back in and it read normal again got going again and it heated up (I thought like the old gassers the thermostat was stuck) went home replaced the thermostat, temp sending unit and found the exhaust pressure sensor broken to so I replace it and flushed the system.

Started it up and headed down the road and she ran great. I got on the freeway and she was purring then all of a sudden the temp started climbing again and red lined. I got off the freeway and cruised home and the temp gage kept going from normal to warmer to red-line and back. This is were I am asking for your help does anyone have a clue what could be doing this

By the way sorry for rambling on I am just a little fustrated and mad that I let some spend 5 hours screwing with my truck when I could have done it 1.5 hours.

 

[95_stroker]

Are your getting a SES light? I gotta believe that your mechanic broke something else under hood during his escapades. I would take it back to him.

 

[Teggleston]

no lights, I think I am going to have to remove everything that he did and start tracing it backwards.

 

[4x4grey88]

Not sure about the over-heating issue. But I had to replace my ICP and, after reading a number of forums, I found it much easier to remove and replace the ICP. In most of the forums it required the air filter to be removed but I think that just removing the heat shield, and cutting my wrench in half, to remove the ICP would have been much easier. I saved a bunch of money by doing it myself.

Keep us posted on what you find for the over-heating.

 

[snicklas]

How did you go about replacing the sensor... could you give the "procedure" you used please... I have one that needs replaced and it is difficult to get to......

 

[4x4grey88]

How did you go about replacing the sensor... could you give the "procedure" you used please... I have one that needs replaced and it is difficult to get to......

All work has to be completed UNDER the truck and you will have to do some reaching but it is not all that difficult. There are two bolts holding on the heat shield above the bell housing (under the turbo). I can't remember if they were 1/2" or 9/16".
The size wrench needed to remove the ICP depends on the year vehicle. I have a 2003 and it is 1-1/8" wrench (Combination wrench has to be cut in half and no more the 4 1/2' long). I am not sure what year they change them to 15/16" but I think it was 2004 (please do not quote me on that).

After removing the heat shield, reach up and work the plug out (this can be a PITA because you only have one hand - but can be done).

After unplugging the old ICP fit the [box end] of your modified wrench on to the old ICP and turn it off. This might take some doing and bad words but it will come off. After you loosened the ICP you can probably remove it be hand.

The hard part is done.

Next install the new ICP (make sure the gasket is on it) and torque it down (with some grunts and more bad words).

Plug it in (clean the plug ends with cleaner to insure good contact) [some people say to change the plug end with an extender. Yahoo! Image Detail for http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/images/73icp.jpg
Replace the heat shield and tighten the two bolts snuggly.

I reset my computer using a OBD-II reader but you can reset it by removing the (-) negative (you can do the [+] if you want) battery terminal and turn your ignition key to the 'start engine' position three times and reconnect the battery.


Completed...Wash up and open a cold one

 

[Teggleston]

OK the rough running thing I found out after tearing everything he did back down was the injector connector was unplugged on the rear drivers side, this was not because he unplugged it but he broke it. I put it all together hoping that was the problem and it fixed the rough running but not the gage and dummy light part.

I have put a new fan clutch, prior to doing this I pulled a code (PO528-60-PCM Cooling Fan Speed Sensor) I took it out and its still doing the same thing.

Can someone pull up that code and give me all the possibility's?

Any ideas would be get, Thanks!!

 

[bigrigr]

Did he get all the air out of the cooling system? Sounds like a classic air bubble to me. The air bubble will roam around in the system sometimes, but not be able to get to the overflow tank. I would check your coolant level when cold, before you start it and add if needed, you may have to "burp" the bubble out, I'm not familiar with the 6.0hs, but I'm sure someone who knows the specifics will chime in. Any help guys?

 

[4x4grey88]

Did he get all the air out of the cooling system? Sounds like a classic air bubble to me. The air bubble will roam around in the system sometimes, but not be able to get to the overflow tank. I would check your coolant level when cold, before you start it and add if needed, you may have to "burp" the bubble out, I'm not familiar with the 6.0hs, but I'm sure someone who knows the specifics will chime in. Any help guys?

I am still waiting for someone to chime in on this...

 

[4x4grey88]

Okay I finally got some pictures of what my truck is doing. I can not figure out why the temp/pressure is getting high enough to pop off the pressure side of the degas cap. I can not find any other leakage and it is obvious that it [coolant] is coming from the cap.

I already replaced the degas bottle because it has a crack in it. I conducted a radiator flush and replaced the coolant about one month ago. I am willing to flush it again because of the color but I need to figure out what is going on 1) with the over pressurization and 2) the rust color of the coolant.

According to Ford the water pump had been replaced while still under warranty but no reason were listed as to why. I am wondering if I could be looking at a bad cooling fan clutch or partially blocked radiator.

The temp gauge reads just above the half (which seems normal to me) but the engine nor radiator seems to be too hot. I can grab the hoses and hold them for a short time, unlike an over heated engine.

I replaced the cap (16 lbs).


As you can see the color of my antifreeze is brown (rust color), I do not believe that this is what some refer to as black coolant due to cooler leakage.


Chime in guys.