6.0 Head Gaskets

FordMastertech

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I am in the middle of a 6.0 engine replacement,17000 miles, due to a worn out camshaft and removing the cab is the only way to do this job with out killing your self. The swap can be done in less than a day this way if there is not too much aftermarket accessories on the truck. The other diesel tech at work has a similar vehicle with a melted # 4 piston, 4000 miles. You got to love these six leaker's for keeping you busy.
FMT
:roflmao
 

Crumm

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FordMastertech said:
The swap can be done in less than a day this way if there is not too much aftermarket accessories on the truck.
Sounds like it would be a good idea for 6.0 owners to install plugs in all aftermarket wiring where they go through the firewall.



FordMastertech said:
You got to love these six leaker's for keeping you busy.
At Ford Job security is #1 :roflmao
 

95_stroker

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Crumm said:
Remove the cab :eek: :eek: That engine must really be shoe-horned in there to have to pull the cab instead of the engine..
Huh, maybe we could come up with a heavy duty keeper pin and a set of hinges between the cab and chassis. Just pop the pin under the drivers side, and hinge that sucker over and viola!! Instant engine/tranny access from the top.





Be a good way to get the change out from under the seats too.:roflmao








-popcorn
 

Dale_Lakin

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FMT how long does it take to get the cab off? Approx how many bolts or elec connections do you have to disconnect or remove?
 

F350carhauler

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Do you pull the cab and front end? Last I seen mine the cab was on and tech had it down to the heads.Still alot of work.
The rear went at 18,000 now the motor I keep thinking whats next. Now I learn the motor is made by international. I wish ford would put cummins in there trucks
 

FordMastertech

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It takes me a little over a hour to get a cab in the air depending on how much extra stuff is on the vehicle and how it was installed. On a regular cab there is 4 bolts inside the cab and 2 more out side by the radiator support. This article explains it pretty good but I have come up with some modifications to it to save a little time later, like removing the master cylinder and ABS HCU and flopping it over on the engine instead of opening up the system, saves a brake bleed. As far as for connectors there is many but they are all pretty easy once you figure out and look at the truck. This truck was assembled this way so it should come apart the same way. The regular cab trucks can be pretty light in the back with the weight of the nose hanging in air so I load up around 300 pounds of scrap rotors, battery's and what ever else I have laying around behind the seat to help in balancing it on the lift. As a extra safety measure I tie the back of the cab to the lift to prevent any movement. Ford didn't approve of this method in the past but they haven't said anything about it in the last couple of years. This link has some great information on doing this on other vehicles so have your techs look at it, I am sure they will like it better in the long run. If I had to do it the old fashioned way I would probably have to sleep in my hot tub to recover as my back will not tolerate leaning over a fender for hours at a time any more. I have never had any complaints from the customers after doing repairs this way and many times they came back in a few days and said the truck never felt so tight, I think it is from re torquing the body mounts after they were compressed from the mileage on the vehicles.
:thumbs :thumbs
FMT
 

JohnBoyToo

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If I didn't have a bull bar on the front, I couldn't REACH most engine components, much less work on them....

I would think with the cab off it's much easier standing next to the engine !!

My only concern would be introducing new rattles, etc...
after it was put back on.... :dunno
 
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F350carhauler

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FordMasterTech Since there putting a new motor will it be better then my 04. Like did thay take care of some of the problems
 

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