2001 F250, 7.3 wont start

[GA_Boy]

I have been to all sorts of Mechanics and nobody can diagnose my problem.
Sometimes it will run and sometimes it will not run. Starter turns engine fast.
I replaced the CPS and it was not that. When cranking the RPM indicator moves a few hundred RPM's so it is good. Ford dealer can't get any bad codes.
Sometimes It will not start and I wait an hour or so and try again and sometimes it will crank after the wait.
Any IDEAS?
Marvin
EDIT-----How can I troubleshoot the Fuel filter oil reservoir?

 

[DaveBen]

Scan it and tell us what codes you get.

 

[Mick]

Other things to check: HPOP not getting to pressure or sensor not reading correctly, the PCM connection or IDM itself, maybe glow plug relay if it primarily won't start when cold. Intermittent problems are pretty tricky. Just tossing out a few ideas. It's been a long time since I played with the trucks so I'm pretty rusty.

 

[Vandecamper]

This same thing happened to me many years ago and the solution was to replace the battery cables to the starter and block. An auto electric guy figured it out. This fooled everybody for about 3 months. No codes, nada, took it to the dealer, a couple independent shops and finally the auto electric guy. Since you're starter turns the engine - it's probably not the battery cables but it may be a lose ground somewhere or a bad plug. Take everyone you can find apart and clean up any ground connections.

 

[tonjon]

I have been to all sorts of Mechanics and nobody can diagnose my problem.
Sometimes it will run and sometimes it will not run. Starter turns engine fast.
I replaced the CPS and it was not that. When cranking the RPM indicator moves a few hundred RPM's so it is good. Ford dealer can't get any bad codes.
Sometimes It will not start and I wait an hour or so and try again and sometimes it will crank after the wait.
Any IDEAS?
Marvin
EDIT-----How can I troubleshoot the Fuel filter oil reservoir?

Make sure your oil level is topped up. Injectors need oil as they’re hydraulic. No oil equals no fuel. Trust me I’ve been there
Tony

 

[rvbsmart]

Find the high pressure oil sensor right behind the HPOP, on the driver side head, and unplug the harness. If the harness plug is full of oil, leave it unplugged and try cranking the truck. If it cranks, you have found your problem. Replace the sensor and either clean or replace to plug and you should be good to go.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[hawkdriver]

I would also check the under valve cover connections. Only takes a few minutes to remove them. I had secured both harnesses while doing an HPOP replacement a few years ago but the plastic had become brittle and my quarter mod had failed because of it. Zip ties fixed it and was back on the road a few months ago after scratching my head like you are right now.

 

[Vommer27]

I would like to add to this discussion as I couldn't find anyone talking about the IDM. My 2000 Excursion with 317k has been flawless up until it had a couple bumps while at highway speed,but would then run 50 miles perfect. Then ,it started shutting off while it was out warming up. Then came the morning,crank no start. That was it. I renewed the CPS, IPR, oil pressure switch, checked all wiring,no codes that I saw. I ordered a reman IDM from Amazon 189.00 which is from A.S.I.automotive electronic rebuilder. Fired right up and has been perfect for the last week. Drive me crazy. Hope this helps . Didn't feel bad changing out unneeded parts as I own it and they were all original,so anytime I can improve it for the long run. Also have 2 Optima batteries and a gear reduction starter ,spins kike a 6.0 L.. my 2 cents

 

[hawkdriver]

^ I would agree with the IDM being a possible factor. I replaced mine a few months ago thinking it may be the culprit. At 300k miles I figured it was a good time to replace it anyways.