1st time using B20
- Thread starter 01platinum
- Start date
I trust the quality of the B20 available here, I know other SD guys that are using it. It's the internal seals, gasket and rubber fuel line issues that concern me. I have a Dahl 100 pre-filter. What should we use to replace any seals, gaskets and rubber fuel lines? I would want to know and do all of this replacement stuff before I started using it.
I think all of That, is what makes Me hesitant about using any BD products.. in my, soon to be..8 year old 7.3.
Joe
Rooster had a Dahl and with b100 it fell apart. We both use the Racor now. Any hose or other part you can replace, use viton or some other resistant material. The high pressure hoses will need replacing first. Again, though, with a low concentration like b20, it wont be a quick need. I ran b100 for 6 months before I had to replace my hoses. Even then they cost a total of $27. I have not heard of other interior parts having any issue. There are others here that have more experience than I that may.
B20...is it hazy at room temp?
While traveling over the holiday I decided to try some biodiesel in my truck and see what happens. I topped it up using B20 with about 1/4 tank of regular D2 already in there, so I guess that made it B15? ([0.75 x 0.80] + 0.25, or something...I dunno, math hurts my head.) I also added 16 ounces of PowerService white for good measure since there was some cold weather where I was going and I didn't want to take any chances. All went well. Truck ran smoother and quieter, started about the same and felt about the same, power-wise (stock everything).
When I filled up, I put a sample of the B20 in a bottle that I keep outside so I can keep an eye on it when temperatures dropped. I figured if it clouds up I'll know I should put some more D2 in my truck to cut the biodiesel percentage down. Today I drained my HFCM and everything looked ok, but I noticed that the fuel drained from my HFCM is less hazy than the straight B20. Here's a side by side comparison. The left is some fuel drained from my HFCM (B15 more or less with PS). The right is B20 straight from the pump. Both are at about 70F.
Is B20 typically a little hazy at room temperature? I didn't think there'd be much difference between B15 and B20, even with PS in there.
While traveling over the holiday I decided to try some biodiesel in my truck and see what happens. I topped it up using B20 with about 1/4 tank of regular D2 already in there, so I guess that made it B15? ([0.75 x 0.80] + 0.25, or something...I dunno, math hurts my head.) I also added 16 ounces of PowerService white for good measure since there was some cold weather where I was going and I didn't want to take any chances. All went well. Truck ran smoother and quieter, started about the same and felt about the same, power-wise (stock everything).
When I filled up, I put a sample of the B20 in a bottle that I keep outside so I can keep an eye on it when temperatures dropped. I figured if it clouds up I'll know I should put some more D2 in my truck to cut the biodiesel percentage down. Today I drained my HFCM and everything looked ok, but I noticed that the fuel drained from my HFCM is less hazy than the straight B20. Here's a side by side comparison. The left is some fuel drained from my HFCM (B15 more or less with PS). The right is B20 straight from the pump. Both are at about 70F.
Is B20 typically a little hazy at room temperature? I didn't think there'd be much difference between B15 and B20, even with PS in there.
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DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
Moe, Fill out your signature so we all will know what you drive and where you live. Click on the USER CP above and fill it out.
What do you drive? You should carry a spare fuel filter and a wrench with you at all times if you are going to use Bio. The Bio will clean out your tank and lines and cause your fuel filter to clog up. It may not happen immediately, but it will happen sometime. Also Bio should be clear with a tinted color but NO foggy gunk to it.
Dave
What do you drive? You should carry a spare fuel filter and a wrench with you at all times if you are going to use Bio. The Bio will clean out your tank and lines and cause your fuel filter to clog up. It may not happen immediately, but it will happen sometime. Also Bio should be clear with a tinted color but NO foggy gunk to it.
Dave
My signature has been filled out since I joined. It used to display but not sure why it doesn't now. Just figured the site had issues?
I have a 2004 6.0 PSD 4x4 CC. I live in TN but drive north to KY on occasion. I'm keeping a set of fuel filters in my truck, just in case.
As you can see there's no gunk in there, but the B20 (on right) is a little hazy. Strange thing is, it's the same stuff that is on the left except it's cut down a little since my tank already had 1/4 tank of D2. I added some PS to the sample on the left as well. Even so, I wouldn't have thought the B20 would be cloudy at room temp. Seems like it should be clear at that temp, no?
on edit: well, now the sig is showing up?!
I have a 2004 6.0 PSD 4x4 CC. I live in TN but drive north to KY on occasion. I'm keeping a set of fuel filters in my truck, just in case.
As you can see there's no gunk in there, but the B20 (on right) is a little hazy. Strange thing is, it's the same stuff that is on the left except it's cut down a little since my tank already had 1/4 tank of D2. I added some PS to the sample on the left as well. Even so, I wouldn't have thought the B20 would be cloudy at room temp. Seems like it should be clear at that temp, no?
on edit: well, now the sig is showing up?!
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
Sorry, Moe. The signature only shows up on the first post of each thread, and that is why I did not see it. This is sort of new here and takes some getting used to. Adding PS to Bio serves no purpose except to lower the cloud point (good thing). Bio has more lubricants than any other fuel or additive combination.
Dave
Dave
Strange, the signature did show on my last post when I made it, but now it's gone. Anyway, no problem.
The reason I used PS is because that's the only antigel I had on hand. Even though it wasn't getting that cold where I went, I didn't want to take any chances.
Which brings up another issue: since lubricity is a non-issue using biodiesel, the "Slick-Diesel" component in PS isn't much use anymore. I used to use Stanadyne Performance but that was partly for lubricity, too. ARe there any additives that are just for biodiesel issues like gelling, moisture, algae, etc?
The reason I used PS is because that's the only antigel I had on hand. Even though it wasn't getting that cold where I went, I didn't want to take any chances.
Which brings up another issue: since lubricity is a non-issue using biodiesel, the "Slick-Diesel" component in PS isn't much use anymore. I used to use Stanadyne Performance but that was partly for lubricity, too. ARe there any additives that are just for biodiesel issues like gelling, moisture, algae, etc?
DaveBen
SDD Senior Member
Sure there are, but you will have to go to a truck stop to find the algeacide. It is not normally a problem here, but maybe in the South. Moisture is taken care by the water separator. You don't want to use anything with alcohol in it. It can and will kill the injectors.
Dave
Dave
Thanks Dave. Someone on another board thought that the haze of the sample in my picture was due to moisture, which makes sense because it's been rainy and humid here for several days. This seems to explain why the sample from my HFCM drain is clear, since it has the water separated from it. I am a little concerned about moisture collecting in my tank and leading to algae and other bad things That's why I'd like to get an additive to help reduce it.
