1997 downpipe help

[Zero]

Wow! What a ton of information can be found here, great site. I am having trouble getting my new 3" downpipe installed. I got the factory pipe out but I can't get the new one on. It is a two piece design and I can't get the the top piece to go down more than about half way. I bent the one inch piece on the firewall and it still won't clear, it clears that but hits the tranny before I can get it down far enough to twist the top. I don't know what else to do but cut up my floorboad. I thought that was not needed on this install. Has anyone had this problem on their truck? My truck has the 5-speed tranny. I bought the pipe on e-bay and they said it was a MBRP but it has no stamp, sticker, or directions. I might have been fooled into an inferior pipe. Help!

 

[95_stroker]

If you take a 2x4 block of wood and lay it on the bell housing and then a long pry bar you can usually massage the firewall enough to get the DP in. I have heard of guys having to loosen the motor mounts and pull the engine forward the 1/4" or so that it will go and also loosen the body mounts and slide it back the 1/4" or so, but that is an extremely rare case. Keep trying, you'll get it in.

Welcome to the site btw......

 

[JOAT]

If you need to, drop the tranny crossmember, and then you can move the tranny up/down and get lots of wiggle room.

I'm pretty sure, tho too late now on mine to try it, that you can get the OE downpipe out intact that way. Possibly even weld the new one and get it in/out as well.

 

[Zero]

Thanks for the reply guy's. I had the tranny crossmember out but still had to cut the factory pipe at the top to get it out. How far can I let the tranny down with the crossmember out and not damage anything? When I had it out I kept a jack under the tranny for support. If I get this thing in how much clearance should I have when I am all done?

 

[JOAT]

Just kind of watch out that nothing gets stretched or bent as you lower the tranny. It can go down a long way, but the fan may hit the shroud, heater hose may pull loose, etc.

Clearance wise, you just don't want anything to ever touch, or you'll really hear it in the cab. If you get desparate, you can sometimes gain 1/2 inch or better by loosening the 6 cab mounts and move the cab back. There's a good post on that (cab bushing replacement) around here somewhere, and if memory serves, spec is maintain minimum 22mm between cab and bed.

 

[Zero]

Ok, I was scared to let it down any. I already put the crossmember back on, but at least the nuts will come off easy this time! Zero

 

[AlaskaRedneK]

Zero, any luck yet?

Hope you got it all in.

That was the least favorite thing I have done to my truk by far (well, doing it, but having it in is TOP NOTCH )

-Stouff

 

[ward cleaver]

I had this issue, but solved it by shoving the top piece up from the bottom and rotating back and forth (and I heat-wrapped it before installation). Fit like it was made at ford. I did have a lot of trouble removing the stock downpipe though. I could be heard cursing no one in particular for blocks!

 

[Zero]

I got that sucker installed! Thanks for the info. I had to put it up on a lift to get the pry bar in from the underside. I am getting contact with something when I shut the truck off. I'll just have to find out on what then adjust the pipe. Seems to run much better and I don't have to keep my foot on the throttle going down hill to maintain my speed. Can somebody help me out with the posting of my truck's info and pictures? I need instuctions on how to get my info posted on each thread I post. Thank's again. Zero

 

[roosterdiesel]

On the second tool bar at the top of the page is the "user CP" button, it's right next to the Forums button. Click that and go to edit signature. For pics click the VBpicgallery button next to the userCP button.

Hope that helps and welcome to the site!