01 7.3 won't start

JLDickmon

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I think you're on the right track..
bad GPR will cause a no start on a 7.3
what's bugging me is your lack of smoke..
 

Bad Night

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Yea after it is back together I am going to pull the idm out of my 99 and see if it matters . I bought a reman and have read a few posts of people getting bad ones .
 

Bad Night

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Originally Posted by toolmangary on Powerstroke Nation
"Well ohming the harness will only work if the wire is 100% broke/warn through, you could have 1 strand of wire still making the connection and it will ohm OK. I had a truck that would buzz test OK but would not fire the injector, I keep looking at the harness and finally seen a spot that the wire was rubbing on a aftermarket metal box around the air filter, the wire was almost worn through. You may have to put a load, like a seal beam at one end and power it up at the other. I know it is a pain but that is good way to test the harness and be 100%."

Originally Posted by JLDickmon
"I think you're on the right track..
bad GPR will cause a no start on a 7.3
what's bugging me is your lack of smoke.. "


Well not completely fixed but I made huge progress tonight . I had 4 injectors
(drivers side) out so I re o-ringed them . I reinstalled them , cranked it over to blow anything out of the cylinders . I then installed new glow plugs and put it all back together . I quoted the posts above because they had me thinking . So I rechecked the harness from the IDM to the 42 pin connector on the top of the drivers side valve cover . I had ohmed it out and looked it over . It was pretty dirty so I cleaned it with some brake cleaner and found a rubbed bare spot which upon closer inspection I found was almost completely through and when it is where it goes is on the valve cover . I repaired this wire and tried to start it , nuthin . So now I am just staring in disgust . I keep on looking at the IDM . I grab the old one throw it back in , jumper the gpr and start cranking .................................................. .. she tries to fire ! woohooo , this is the first positive in a week and a half . Tomorrow I will be replacing the rest of the injector o-rings (pass side) , replacing the rest of the glow plugs , and the gpr . I suspect she will fire tomorrow .
 
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Bad Night

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Put the rest of the new o-rings on the other 4 injectors , jumped the gpr and ......................................... Woo Hoo , she's alive .

I think the whole problem before was the broken wire .
 

JLDickmon

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if my gpr is bad will it cause the wait to start light to not come on?

No, but if your #30 fuse is blown (normally means the fuel bowl heater is shorted out) that will cause a "no wait to start" light
 

Bad Night

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No, but if your #30 fuse is blown (normally means the fuel bowl heater is shorted out) that will cause a "no wait to start" light

X2 on this . Unplug the fuel bowl heater . Replace the fuse and you are good to go . You can replace the element but don't really have to . Power to the pcm comes from this fuse as well , that's why the no start .
 
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BIG JOE

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if your #30 fuse is blown (normally means the fuel bowl heater is shorted out) that will cause a "no wait to start" light

x2 on this . Unplug the fuel bowl heater . Replace the fuse and you are good to go . You can replace the element but don't really have to . Power to the pcm comes from this fuse as well , that's why the no start .

x3 !
 

bigblack250

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X2 on this . Unplug the fuel bowl heater . Replace the fuse and you are good to go . You can replace the element but don't really have to . Power to the pcm comes from this fuse as well , that's why the no start .

the # 30 is inside the cab right? its good and what do the 2 small wires on my gpl do? should they have power when the key is on? i changed mine out with another used one now my truck wont start and the wts light doesnt come on but if i put one of those little wires on the hot side it witll run, did i burn up a fuseable link or something?
 

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