I really depends on what the biodiesel portion was made from. I don't think that at B20 you'll have any trouble down to 10... I know my B100 from waste oil isn't good much under 40 (I don't trust it anyways...)
What you can do is put some fuel in a jar and leave it sitting on the window ledge...
The pump is pretty easy to get out. Just take out your fuel bowl and you'll be able to get to it. Two bolts and a few hoses.
You CAN do it without pulling the turbo...the hard part is getting the banjo bolt off the back. Although, if you've ever taken the turbo out before, it's probably...
From their website:
We had a Ford factory in the Toledo area that sampled stamping machines regularly. We found a mechanical problem on one of their presses right before the 4th of July holiday. When they checked the oil reservoir they found parts of a gear. They managed to fix the machine over...
How long have you run it since replacing the injector? There may be air in either the fuel or oil lines that you need to purge --- by taking it on a good long run (40 - 60 miles) at highway speeds.
Radio shack doesn't have them. I think you're better off building your own....you KNOW what's going on with your truck, not to mention it's a LOT cheaper.
I'm going to be in Lubbock tomorrow, I may can pick you some up and mail them to you....
I'll let you know tomorrow if I can get them.
Not sure where I found this, but:
To hook it you simple splice the banded end of the diode to the LG/BK wire and
the other end of the diode to the GY/R wire at the map sensor.
I did it on my old truck, didn't know the OBS map sensor does frequency and not voltage changes..
I found a Zener...
Well -- I think I'm on the trail.
Found that Motorcraft part # WPT-169 is what I need.
Napa cross-references that to EC246.
Found some great PDF docs on motorcrafts website that has all of the pigtails, with applications, etc on it..
MOTORCRAFT® WIRING PIGTAIL KITS FOR FORD, LINCOLN OR...
I'll also add that I think the Stancor relay upgrade is a nice replacement for the stock. It's a lot more heavy-duty than the stock one, and I don't think it is prone to failure like the stocker is. Much cheaper too..I think I paid 20 or 30 bucks for mine..
I'm looking for a pigtail that goes to the High Pressure Cut out Switch (HPCO) on the back of the AC compressor. Mine has a short in it and doesn't always work right.
Nobody 'round here seems to be able to find one....thanks.
My trim is coming off, the adhesive that was on it is starting to wrinkle up and separate...it's real bad under the fuel filler door (spilt biodiesel down the side a few times..), but I think I'm going to re-do all of them while I'm doing it.
Anyone have suggestions on how to do this, and the...
It's turning over, just no start, right?
Few quick things to check:
OIL level
Fuses under hood (9 & 22, I think, but might as well check 'em all)
Sounds like fuel pump, but I'm sure it's NOT the mechanical type like I've got, so I can't be anyhelp there...
In my opinion, if you want mild increases, you sure can't beat the cost of this 10K mod. You should be able to get it done for under 10 bucks. Nothing else you'll try can come close to making that much power that cheaply. If you want higher gains, though, it's not really worth messing with...
10K mod is a resistor (Usually 10K ohms) placed in the ICP sensor circuit. What it does is fool the computer by returning a lower value from the ICP sensor....telling the computer to send more fuel (by increasing pressure to the injectors).
If you've got a chip, you'll see little or no...
I've found a pretty good route..
Get to Detroit, haul automobiles to Charlotte, the something to Jacksonville, then take glass back to Detroit.
First leg is about 1.35/mi, second is pretty low, third is over $1.00/mi.
I'll bet it's his vacuum pump.
I just recently replaced mine, and the new one takes a few seconds (10) before the brakes build up enough vacuum to operate properly. My old pump would have it just as soon as it fired. In my situation, it's annoying, but not enough of a nuisance to worry about...