Upper tie-rod hard to replace? Mod weekend...

[orion_134]

Got some massive upper tie-rod play and she needs to be replaced, any tips before I dive into it? Anything I should also replace while I'm in there?

Also, it appears that the dust seal/grease ring around the axle has broken off, is that hard to replace? Just pull the axle and pull the old one out? Should I do bearings if I've went that far?

Also, replacing the u-joints, are the ones from the parts store fine?

Also, keep hearing about fuel and oil additives. Someone told me that the fuel these days is getting drier and he adds some Lucas to every tank/oil change to lubricate the injectors/injector pump. Any truth to this? Anything you diesel veterans recommend?

Thanks a ton,
Jesse

 

[johndeerebones]

Got some massive upper tie-rod play and she needs to be replaced, any tips before I dive into it? Anything I should also replace while I'm in there?

Upper tie rod? You mean outer maybe? If so just count your turns to unthread it and thread it back on the same amount.

Also, it appears that the dust seal/grease ring around the axle has broken off, is that hard to replace? Just pull the axle and pull the old one out? Should I do bearings if I've went that far?

You have a unitized bearing/hub. If you want to fix the seal you will probably have to put a new bearing/hub on. By the time the problem is noticed the bearing is usually shot anyway. About 400 bucks though at the stealership, thats if they give you the good price. More if they don't have any competition.

Also, replacing the u-joints, are the ones from the parts store fine?

As long as it has a grease fitting it should be fine. OEM joints without zerks are usually pretty good, but most of the aftermarket ones suck. Lifetime lubricated is BS.

Also, keep hearing about fuel and oil additives. Someone told me that the fuel these days is getting drier and he adds some Lucas to every tank/oil change to lubricate the injectors/injector pump. Any truth to this? Anything you diesel veterans recommend?

Lucas, Diesel Power Service, and Stanadyne fuel conditioners are all very good, cheap insurance to add fuel conditioners in our trucks, our injectors are expensive. If someone ever tells you to put transmission oil in your fuel tanks, run. As far as I know from people in the know that is an old wives tale.
As for oil additives be extremely cautious what you put in your oil. With our injector and high pressure oil system, oil is vital to how the engine runs and how long your injectors are gonna last. Don't put any oil additives in it unless someone who knows the product and the powerstroke application says it will be ok, then still be leary. By the way, you don't have an injector pump, we have a HEUI injection system. Completly different setup.

Hope I helped.

Happy wrenching.

Thanks a ton,
Jesse

? Wouldn't let me do just a quote, so I had to add this line of BLAH to make my post acceptable.

 

[fordtrucker4life!]

if you meant to say upper ball joint instead of upper tie rod usually the lower ball joint is shot before the top. So if you are doing ball joints do both. As for tie rods they usually all go at the same time. If you replace tie rods get them as close as they were before and consider a front end alignment in case you didn't get them exact.

good luck

 

[orion_134]

Yep, sorry, meant ball joint. The upper is wobbling bad. The bearing might also be grinding, but I will replace the ball-joint first and see if it solves the feeling in the floorboard...then I might tackle the bearing. Do I have to take the axle out to get the ball joints out? Do they hammer or press out?

I have also noticed a sag in the left front and when I pick up on the front of the truck, it takes about two bounces to settle out...sound like shocks? I knew the bouncing was the shocks, but I thought the sag was caused by the springs, not the shocks. I thought the shocks just controled the movement of the springs...any thoughts to this?
Thanks for all the help,
Jesse

 

[DaveBen]

YES you have got to take the front axles out to get the steering knuckle off. Get a ball joint press kit from a good rental place. You NEED the ball joint press. If you live anywhere near Palo Alto, Ca I can loan mine to you.

Dave

 

[orion_134]

LOL, not even close, I'm near DC...

 

[DaveBen]

I don't suppose you could get much further away. Maybe Florida.

Dave

 

[orion_134]

Yeah, FL is where I am from lol. Can I substitute a vice or hydraulic press?
Jesse

 

[DaveBen]

Vice will not have enough force to remove the ball joint. Press will work if you have a good selection of holding fixtures.

Dave

 

[orion_134]

K, got the tool. While I have the hub out, are there any seals I need to replace? I am replacing the dust seal in the axle tube but I heard there are other hub seals I could replace.
Thanks,
Jesse