Transmission Cooler HELP

mike.germann

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Hey guys. I had a recent transmission rebuild less than 2000 miles ago (cost me $3000).

I'm traveling down the road at 55-65 mph, with no weight. Ambient temperature is near 90*. I'm watching my aftermarket transmission temp gauge creep WAY up. Up above 220*. Making me really nervous.

I have an ATS transmission cooler, doesn't appear to be dirty or covered in mud (surprising with all the mudding I do).

Does anyone have any insight as to why my temperature would be spiking??

ps. If it IS time for a new trans cooler, what would you recommend?
 

JRJ04

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do you have an ample amount of fluid in the system? How hot is your motor getting? Reason i ask that is because the radiator has lines that run through the tranny and if your motor is getting hot, your tranny will as well.

My guess would be your cooler is plugged. Maybe get the whole system flushed?

If you end up needing a cooler...no doubt, go with the 6.0 cooler. That made about a 40* difference for me. I never see temps above 160 unless im towing or running it hard in the sand at the beach.
 

mike.germann

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Checked trans fluid. It shows I have enough fluid, and it doesn't look or smell bad.

Engine temp has never risen, since I've had the truck. I only have the stock engine temp gauge..and it's never moved higher than idle operating temp (even on my 4,000 mile road trip).

Is there an at-home way to check to see if the trans-cooler is plugged?

...I've dumped over $7,000 into the truck this month alone. I can't afford to throw parts at her, without knowing EXACTLY what may be causing this.
 

JRJ04

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Yes, one thing you could do is pull the return line off the back of the of to transmission that goes to the cooler and start it up to see if you are getting fluid flowing out of it.

To go a step further, you could unhook the other line coiming out of the tranny and then hook a compressed air hose up to it and flow the lines out. Be sure you dont go over about 10psi. Obviously you would want some way to collect the fluid, but it would be worth a shot to see if any junk comes out.
 

mike.germann

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thanks for the advice, jrj04.

i'll give that a try. I'll probably try and recruit a buddy to give me a hand (I've never done this stuff before) so i don't mess anything up.
 

BJS

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If you pull the transmission output hose the minimum spec flow for the E4OD is 1/2 quart in 30 seconds at idle since the 4r100 is essentially the same trans and very few specs changed (both use the same front pump) I do not see the specs being any different.

Please expand a bit on what your "ATS transmission upgrade" is in your signature the logical reason that trans temps would keep climbing at a cruise speed with no load is slipping likely the torque converter. When you're running down the highway if you hit the throttle hard but not hard enough to trigger a downshift of the trans do the rpms spike or do they climb steadily and then more rapidly after boost builds?
 

mike.germann

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The RPM's climb steadily then more rapidly after boost builds. If I hit the throttle hard enough, as stated, the rpm's spike (but i'm pretty sure that's a normal downshift).

In my personal opinion....I bought the truck from a guy, less than 4 months ago. He told me he put in an ATS transmission, which cost him around $5000.

I just went on a 4,000+ mile road trip. When I got to Texas, the transmission went out. All gears were pretty rough, metal shards everywhere, converter shot, overdrive gone, etc. When we looked at the other parts, all that had REALLY been done to upgrade the transmission was the installation of a deep ATS trans pan, a machined ring to fit a few extra clutch packs in, a purple ATS converter, and thicker drum.

Someone got the run around on that deal...it was NOT a $5000 tranny build.

I had new planetary gears (think that's what they're called), a billet converter, re-installed the shift kit, got it all re-operational. Complete 4R100 rebuild.

I hadn't changed my signature since the rebuild, sorry.

Current opinion: ATS is expensive garbage. Noted.
 

uloadit

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did you change out your cold fluid by pass on the side of the transmission? It goes from the front outlet to the rear inlet ,,I replace that or eliminate it. it might be sticking half open
 

mike.germann

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How does the cold fluid bypass work?

What do you mean 'sticking half open?'

-just asking because I don't know. All this transmission stiff is pretty new to me.
 

trackspeeder

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How does the cold fluid bypass work?

What do you mean 'sticking half open?'

-just asking because I don't know. All this transmission stiff is pretty new to me.

It's actually a pressure bypass. Its job is to keep the fluid flow to the rear of the tranny. If you have a blocked cooler you will lose the tranny. The bypass will open when the cooler line plugs up, allowing fluid flow back to the tranny.

Sometimes the check valve will stick causing overheating problems.:eek:

You can either replace it, or remove it.
 

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