Soldering

happeetxn

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Howdy All,
I have mentioned how this summer I am doing much needed work to my truck. Part of that was fixing the rear passenger side window gears. Completed:thumbs
I ran into a slight problem though. On my driver's door window controller switches the wire that supplies power for me to control the power to the rear passenger door broke at the little metal connector. After looking in my area electronic stores I cannot find the type of connector that Ford used so I want to know if I can solder a pigtail to the terminal on the controller and then make up a connection with a common connector.
I can post a picture of the piece I am talking about tomorrow, can't right now as I am getting ready to start my night shift.
As Always Thanks in advance,
Craig
 

bad_bad_bubba

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happeetxn said:
Howdy All,
I have mentioned how this summer I am doing much needed work to my truck. Part of that was fixing the rear passenger side window gears. Completed:thumbs
I ran into a slight problem though. On my driver's door window controller switches the wire that supplies power for me to control the power to the rear passenger door broke at the little metal connector. After looking in my area electronic stores I cannot find the type of connector that Ford used so I want to know if I can solder a pigtail to the terminal on the controller and then make up a connection with a common connector.
I can post a picture of the piece I am talking about tomorrow, can't right now as I am getting ready to start my night shift.
As Always Thanks in advance,
Craig

As soon as you get some pics of it, I am sure I could give an answer. I just dont know what it looks like. :dunno
 

happeetxn

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Hey Bad Bad Bubba,
I was able to fix the problem without haveing to solder the wire onto the "prong". Scratch one item off of the to-do lists.
Craig
 

bling821

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Ok, here is the skinny on soldering. Rosin core solder is a must for electrical work. Also, if you can get your hands on some, soldering flux is awsome. The rosin ans the flux remove the oxidation from the connections and helps the soder to flow. Use a 60/40 solder for electrical connections. That is the ratio of lead to tin. There is a 63/37 (I think it is) that is even better. The closer you get to that, the less of a plastic regeon when the solder cools from liquid to solid states.

If you can adjust the temperature on the soldering iron then use somewhere around 600F. I find that that temp works best for me.

CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!!!! As with many other things, the more prep, the better the job. Soldering is 10 mins prep, 30 secs of soldering. Use rubbing alchohol to clean the connection, the wire and the solder before you use it. This will pay of in the end. Keep the tip of the iron clean. Always keep solder on the tip of the iron. Before use, melt some solder on the tip, then use a wet sponge to wipe it off and you will have a clean, shiny tip on the iron. Then do the job.

You do not have enough hands to solder so have some kind of stand with alligator clips are something to hold the things you are soldering. Your hands will be holding the iron and the solder.

I've heard it said, "The bigger the blob, the better the job." That is absolutely wrong. More solder is not good and can cause excess resistance that can create heat and other electrical problems. Also, do not move the connection until the solder had cooled to its solid state. You will cause cracks in the connection and the same as above will result.

For more info, I can look up some things and give references or send an email so as not to tie up the forum with crap nobody else cares about.
 
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