Ohboyohboyohboy...

[jvencius]

I got my Wicked Wheel in yesterday so as soon as Maggie and I eat lunch, I'll be heading up to the station to install it. I think the truck sounds good now with the Tymar intake, but I've heard that the Tymar+WW combo is UNREAL and I can't wait to hear it for myself.

 

[Crumm]

How about a audio clip when you get done

 

[jvencius]

Well, I tried, but didn't get the wheel in.

I got the intake ductwork out (having done the CCV mod made things much easier), the intercooler tubes disconnected and removed, all the sensors disconnected from the Y-pipe, the Y-pipe removed, and only then did I realize that I didn't have the right socket I need to take off the compressor housing. While I have two (2) 1/4" drive, 5/16" 6-point sockets, I didn't have the 1/4" drive, 5/16" 12-point socket that I need. So, once I got done cussing and generally getting upset at myself, I put everything back together and drove directly down to Sears to buy the right socket.

Oh well, I wanted to get the wheel in but it'll have to wait until tomorrow after church.

 

[jvencius]

OK--here's my initial impressions:

-The WW doesnt' provide any really dramatic power/EGT differences. EGT's have dropped ~50-100 degrees while unloaded so that's a plus.

-The turbo spools faster and smoother and doesn't have any of the fluttering/turbo stall at 16-19 lbs of boost like before.

-Since I've only driven ~ 10 miles with the wheel in, it's much too early to make a guess at mpg increases.

-Installation took a little longer than I thought, but not really all that long. From pulling into the garage to heading out for a test drive (responding on a VFD call excluded), it took about 5 hours to do the install with the turbo on the truck. If I had to install another one, I could probably get 'er dun in ~ 4 hours, as long as the truck had a factory downpipe.

-Having a 4" downpipe made it a beyotch to get a padded screwdriver in the exhaust side of the turbo so that I could unscrew the old wheel from the shaft. There just wasn't enough room to easily move the pipe out of position to clear room into the exhaust side of the turbo.

-Unbolting and re-bolting the wastegate actuator in position was an absolute PITA, since I didn't unhook the c-clip connecting it to the wastegate. That'll come next week when I put a little more tension on the rod to build a little more boost.

-Having done the CCV mod made things easier, since I didn't have to deal with disconnecting and unbolting the CCV inlet.

-The sound isn't dramatically different from before, but it sounds GOOD. There's a bit more whistle at low-to-medium throttle, and when I let off the loud pedal, I can hear the turbo spinning down, and that's quite : .

More impressions to follow when I get more time behind the wheel.

 

[whatabudro]

My first on truck install took about 2 hours Saturday at the mod party. I removed the clip for the waste gate rather than unbolting it. It was not my first WW install, but my first on the truck install. Now that I have done two, I need to contact Bob Riley to let him know about his maching process. Both wheels I have put on from his site need thread cleaning first because the wheel was trying to cross thread. Bryan

 

[f100cleveland]

I had the same problem with the threads being boogered up. I did mine in less than 45 minutes, but kinda cheated by useing a 3/8 impact and slowly started to turn it then switched directions and let it buck. After the second or third try it spun right off. My daughter said the other dads diesels don't sound like mine.

 

[jvencius]

I had the same problem with the threads being boogered up. I did mine in less than 45 minutes, but kinda cheated by useing a 3/8 impact and slowly started to turn it then switched directions and let it buck. After the second or third try it spun right off. My daughter said the other dads diesels don't sound like mine.

I tried using a 3/8" impact at 30, then at 40 psi, but all that did was spin the whole impeller/compressor combo. I ended up taking off the downpipe-to-turbo clamp and sticking a well-padded screwdriver in the impeller side to stop the shaft from rotating.