New bigger tank, what mods?

[RSG]

I'm getting set for a replacement fuel tank install, using the Transfer Flow stock replacement. It gets me about 18-20gal more which at first blush didn't seem much until I measured it in "bladder miles" and decided going from (highway miles) 400+ range to a 700+ range was the margin I am looking for.

Advice on the following would be greatly appreciated:
1. I'm looking at the various 'air eliminator' mods (did a search, lots of good stuff here on this site) and it basically seems that the "mixing valve" in the stock configuration is removed and the return line is separated from the feed line to give air bubbles a chance to find somewhere else to play...is that really about it?

2. I like the ITP kit (ITP 7.3L Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit) but without the Baldwin filter assy... I would swap in a Dahl 100 filter/water separator from here: Dahl 100 (water removal is good) in place of their Baldwin filter kit. Net add is about $75. Seem reasonable?

3. What about a heated fuel bowl? When is that important if ever? There is a simple bowl swap on the Dahl (e.g. here . (I should say I see -20F or so each winter in northern Minnesota, and haven't had any problems with factory stock setup ).

4. Comments on this approach compared to say, the fancy CPR system from dieselsite ?? That includes pump, regulator, etc. Any experiences with it?

Thanks in advance for any opines or experiences!

 

[txastuff79]

i have a fuel pre heater kit that uses the antifreeze to heat the return fuel to the tank. about to get rid of it. if interested, let me know. i wont want much for it even though ford charged me a bunch. i only got it since i was living in wyoming for a while. im back in texas and it never gets cold enough to need it.

 

[RSG]

i have a fuel pre heater kit that uses the antifreeze to heat the return fuel to the tank. about to get rid of it. if interested, let me know. i wont want much for it even though ford charged me a bunch. i only got it since i was living in wyoming for a while. im back in texas and it never gets cold enough to need it.

Where can I read up on it? Why pull it, is it causing other issues? I might be interested, PM me with details or share with the crowd as you prefer.

 

[JLDickmon]

3. What about a heated fuel bowl? When is that important if ever? There is a simple bowl swap on the Dahl (e.g. here . (I should say I see -20F or so each winter in northern Minnesota, and haven't had any problems with factory stock setup ).

I know from experience that diesel fuel can gel at temperatures above 0 deg, so yes, keep your heated fuel bowl

 

[roosterdiesel]

3. What about a heated fuel bowl? When is that important if ever? There is a simple bowl swap on the Dahl (e.g. here . (I should say I see -20F or so each winter in northern Minnesota, and haven't had any problems with factory stock setup ).

If you order the heated version of the Dahl it will come assembled with the bowl with probes. If you ever plan to run biodiesel, watch out for concentrations higher than 20%. My Dahl heater came apart running B99.9.


As far as you not having probs...that's with a stock system. If you eliminate the mixing chamber, you eliminate adding heated return fuel to the feed line of the pump. That is the reason for the mixing chamber, to help with gelling fuel line problems. I had a cheap 99cent filter gel when temps didn't get out of the teens the first winter after doing the Hutch mods. I now have a heated Racor pre-pump and have no probs even running a 2 micron filter in the winter.

 

[RSG]

As far as you not having probs...that's with a stock system. If you eliminate the mixing chamber, you eliminate adding heated return fuel to the feed line of the pump. That is the reason for the mixing chamber, to help with gelling fuel line problems. I had a cheap 99cent filter gel when temps didn't get out of the teens the first winter after doing the Hutch mods. I now have a heated Racor pre-pump and have no probs even running a 2 micron filter in the winter.

Aha! Thanks! The trade-off on that mixer chamber is bubbles vs. heat.

Seems you advise Racor (heated) over Dahl (heated) based on your experience with bd, is that correct? Got a part# per chance...(e.g. Racor 230R-30 showed upon a google)?

Thanks Rooster & JL.

 

[roosterdiesel]

I used a Racor 900fh turbine series. Was around before the Dahl and Racor will stand behind their products with BD as long as it meets ASTM standards.

It's fairly pricey and big....they use to make a 500FG which is more like wha'ts needed on a pickup. When they updated to the FH series they didn't make the 500. I can get you a 500FG I think if you like.

 

[RSG]

I'm not seeing the 500FG with a heated bowl when I google. Did find a 500FG2 with "Metal heat deflectors over a see-thru bowl"

Also see others, like a 460, and a similar 660 that doesn't have an integral prime. So many choices...! Whatcha think? Does the 500-series mate up my fuel lines or do I need to double-check that too?

More broadly...if you have a good water/air separator, is there really any need to get rid of the mixing assy in the tank? I still don't understand why that is such a big deal. Seems that putting a filter/separator is a simple alternative and gives an extra layer of insurance too.

 

[roosterdiesel]

Air and water are hard on our injectors whether it be entrained or flat out big bubbles, think score plunger and barrels.


The FASS and Air Dog are great at removing air but don't remove water as good as the Tubine Racor or the Dahl. So pick your method of protection, remove the causes of air problems and get a good pre-pump filter or cross your fingers with a FASS or Air dog on the water removal.